forteh

Natural titanium

Use a vee on the front and its awesome, super light grind and coustsinks - stupid hold and more than enough bite On my old forks its was very, very noisy and bite was spectacular; since putting pace reverse mount forks on the bite has reduced alittle (but with way more modulation ) and the honk has reduced to a woosh which is far nicer The front vee is about 100g lighter than a maggie setup which was my reasoning to use it.

There is no material there to screw the fw/sprocket on there. The only way I can see to do it would be to have an adaptor that fits the standard middleburn spline, then reduce to a threaded section but I cant see how you could refit the lockring afterwards We have just installed a cnc mill centre at work so I may have a play around with designing one

Dont think its possible, pretty sure the lockring on the RS7s is larger than the ID of a freewheel (1.37"), would be cool if an adaptor could be made though

I used an old primo dirt monster as a downtube protector, pretty much the same pattern as the dmr tyre, protects from scratches and most minor dings

Tryall rim tape is over 50g for 26", selotape split after a while and holed the tube, elecatrical tape is best solution

I was 13, I now feel older

My bike wasnt even that light when you rode it, has lost another 1500g since then

Trialtechs are awesome, so are extended montys; I have a pair of extended monty PR bars floating around When you say 'hard to pick up the front wheel' are you meaning hard to manual or hard to pedal up onto the back wheel? Higher (riser) bars will help with lifting a manual, however if youre struggling with pedalling up onto the back wheel then its probably technique at fault. What frame/bars/stem have you got?

I guess that would be a maggie or vee brake then

Biggest single and cheapest weight saving I used was a drilled DX32 and single ply rear tyre - 650g off the back wheel alone! Titanium BB (if you can find/afford a decent enough one) and pedal axles are another big saving, lock on grips are heavy, as are disk brakes. My bike is hovering around the 9kg mark (having put heavier forks and tyres on) and thats without drilling anything - lightweight components is where the saving really comes unless your frame is heavy to start with. I would f**k the front tyre off and just run your own until schwalbe want to give you a front tyre worth using

Much the same, Im primarily designing on autocad and for simple sketches its much quicker, however get to an assembly spread over 40 drawings all with further sub assemblies and it gets to be an absolute b*****d to keep a track on things. Ive used the built in FEA a fair amount, it is severely limited in what it can do (no assembly or weldment analysis) but it can give a rough idea of the design if you can model the the loads correctly - its basically a demo of the full FEA package. Fortunately we have just had a 3 1/2 axis cnc mill and a cnc lathe installed at work, coupled with solidworks should produce some interesting bike/motorbike based foreigners

PMd you

Besides the point, you cant physically make a freehub that light, especially since the viz fixed hub is 300g Ill still stick with my 285g king

If that weighs 130g Ill eat my bike Ill stick with my king hub thank you.

Would have to agree, my 16t king kog has a significant amount of wear and its only had a years use or so, certainly more wear than I expected from a stainless sprocket. Also the base isnt as wide as the 15t trialtech Im running now - Ive had to dig the king kog out of my alloy driveshell, the trialtech is a few mm wider and doesnt dig in

Got bars, stem, sprocket and stickers from trialtech - all good

Its not snowing in lichfield (about 2/3rds way from stoke to brum) but it is raining on an off.

Depending on your frame you could make some external rings to fit and fit them with some heat, you would need to strip your headtube down to bare metal and probably face and ream your headtube after it was done. Not worth the effort for a finished frame, far easier to build them during production

Check that the cranks/freewheel arent interfering with the BB shell/chainstays, if the axle isnt long enough they may rub. When you say its an unsealed BB, is it loose cups and bearings? If so you have probably just overtightened the bearings.

Dont think so, heating it up will deform the tube too much. Try a spot of lube and it might work better

When you clamp the hose make sure there is about 5mm sticking out the top, you can lube the barb up with a little washing up liquid but it should go in dry. Gently tap the fitting in over the 1st barb then move the hose another 5mm out of the clamps and repeat till its seated home. You need to be very gentle with the tapping, hitting it too hard will try to deform the plastic too quickly and it will split.

Ive got an atomz oversized stem (115x20) going spare, or Ive got an FSA carbon wrapped jobbie which is 100x6 I think; both are 31.8mm clamp. Also got a kore 100x0 that I used to run on my zoo boa (1050/385/+10) and that is 25.4 bar clamp I found that the stem greatly improved leverage for getting up stuff, it can limit your ability to pull it up into a manual though if your bars are too low. For a streety setup I would go for around the 100-110mm length and angle to suit how high you want the bars.

Ive a feeling the best pad durometers are between 90 and 92, not too sure though. Ive got some 70 at home that Im intending to test at some point, not expecting it to be much cop though

Muahahaha!!!!!! Ahem sorry :$