nmt_oli

WOW

It is possible, but you would have to: *Run bmx LHD cranks, and just swappign cranks over would result in pedals falling out (theres a reason for that reverse thread!) *Run a LHD hub, i believe a profile singlespeed is the only possibilty here. *Run single speed with horizontal dropouts OR a chainstay mounted tensioner. (dont bother with a mech hanger- tensioners and mechs are designed to go the the other side!)

1st, i seriously suggest you get an air filter or you engine will die VERY quickly. If the fuel is old, this might be one of the main problems, try fresh fuel. If the bottle was half used, and has been standing in a light place and/or damp place it is likely to be way past its best- nitro fuel is very hygroscopic (yes, thats wit a G not D) and absorbs moisture from the aptmosphere very readily, even if sealed. as has been said, 2.5 to 3 turns anti clock wise from fully in should get it started, if not try it so the screw is flush to the sleeve. carb should be open abotu 1mm at idle.

Those welds look well shoddy and weak! stick with burns!

I have had 8 different hope hubs on various bikes, and only once had a problem (which was apparent when i purchased the hub 2nd hand) and hope fixed it no questions asked. I also now have a king rear hub, and can safely say its a solid piece of engineering and i trust it, because i do understand how it works, i do service it, and do check its tight. its never skipped with me riding it, however the previous owner sold it after one(and only one) slip, but it was a full rotation- it was probably just loose. The king hub drive is superior in my opinion, but thats not to say i think the hope is crap, ive never broken one. I think they are both good quality, and have great customer service. hope have a more industrial feel, typical of british made products, and kings have a more pro refined feel, typical of american products. I do think that this hope hub will be a better buy, due to the price difference. just my opinion in the hope vs. king war we have here!

Most places will have sold out by now (hence the only front singles, most people want a rear maggie). i can only suggest ringing various shops, there might be some lbs's somewhere that have one left and are willign to send it, i don't know. alternatively, check for sale/wanted for good condition ones- i have a brand new front 2004 maggie, and a length of hose i can fit if you want t use it for the back and run the lever upside down. why would that be? i suppose they could be makign the set up from spares, almost did for my rear brake, but i found a complete new set and just used one brake.

Cinamon Grahams - formaly cinamon toast crunch. luurrrrrvly.

even if it is shit, cut it into nice sized pieces and flog it on ebay!

Fred (derf) has fallen in, hopefulyl he will post the picture again- thats a good pic!

i would get bored practising that, but fair play- quick hands!

A lot of those do the same things though. and you have ruined it for us! lol

dog is quite interesting! pussy

organise it for another weekend, a lot of people(including me) are riding southampton. i would be willing to travel and ride bristol again, but only if theres no other ride on.

LHM brake fluid as mentioned above is pretty much the same as magura blood, just a mineral oil, of similar thickness. I Personally use 2.5wt finishline shock oil, it is thinnner than magura blood (i believe magura blood is roughly 5wt) and HAS been proved to be better. magura service centre int eh US used to use 5wt finish line to blled brakes, as it was the closest they could get to magura blood for a while (for some strange reason), and they said it improved feel as it has more of a lubrcative effect. By usingthe thinner 2.5wt, you get a snapppuier lever feel that is also very consistent and smooth, with no worries about damaging the system or it freezing. I find it very nice to use.

If the hub shell is damaged, they may replace that for free- in that case you can specify a new colour!

The arch is still wayyyy to low, do some measuring! I don't have a problem whith this guy making his own boosters, as long as he doesnt just copy someone elses design, but even if they are cheap, they wont be as good as some others, you get what you pay for! and as mark said, there likely to be a lot more than £3, materials are likely to be almost £3 per piece, depending what grade alloy your using.

I can't imagine you could put a lot of tension in the spokes, unless you used huge washers under the nipples. otherwise i dont see a problem in wooden rims for general use, if you use the right wood, finish them properly then they should be good for a fair amount of use with no hassle, although i doubt you could do it just on a lathe- i think laminated rims would be better, then maybe finished on a lathe to get the sidewalls.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=65710 for general q's like this, its always good to check the FAQ in trials chat, even if you can't post there.

The rim slots allow water to escape from the contact patch, important if yourrunnign trials pads with no grooves, and it also maitains a mostly smooth braking surface maintaining modulation, which is desireable on the front. If you were to full on grind it, it would loose modulation, and be worse on pad wear.

To sumemrise: ISIS: Good: Strong, stiff axle Strong, stiff Interface Due to the above two very little flex, and stronger than square. Bad: Due to oversize axle, smaller bearings are used than square. Some people have experienced reduced BB life due to this, as has been mentioned can be improved with use of external bearing bb's. As the splined interface is not tapered, repeated removal of cranks (or running loose) will damage interface and it will never be tight again. Sqaure: Good: very common fitment if you need parts in a hurry good bearings, long bb life. due to tapered interface cranks can be tightened on further after frequent removal, or slight damage. Bad: taper can be damaged easily in extreme use axles are weaker due to smaller size feel more 'flexy' due to small interface and axle, alowing more movement. Its swings and roundabouts, but overall ISIS has proved itself better in extreme riding applications such as trials, despite the bearing problems.

Ok, grinding a standard disk brake rotor, without changing anything else will not produce as good a brake as leaving it standard. By roughing the surface of the rotor, you are just creating something that will cause a very high wear rate, while actually producing very little stopping power. The logic behind grinding rim brakes, is very different to this case, as derf has explained: Its not just the fact that the surface area is increased, it’s the fact the pad locks into the grooves as well, for the pad to slip it would have to change shape to accommodate the profile of the braking surface, and while the pad is happy to deform in line with the pressure its being applied with, it will not easily deform the other way, very hard to explain this, basically the ridges would have to move across the pad, but cant since the pad material would have to be pushed back, which it wont do, any slipping provokes very high wear rate. With a disk brake, the pad is so hard it will not conform to the contours of the braking surface, so you will not get the beneficial lock (in fact you will get a decrease in overall friction, despite the larger pressure) so the disk will just rub past the pad, and any energy that is taken from the movement, is used in the scraping of the pad material off the surface (the same as sandpapering the pads), hence very high wear rate. With a flat pad, and a flat disk despite there being little friction at low pressures, there is plenty at high pressure and it is turned into heat, rather than wear. It is true that if you glaze a pad, you need to roughen the surface and bed it in again, but that’s another matter altogether. The whole point about disk brakes is the modulation, everyone knows that they don’t quite have the hold of a trials set up magura, hence why few people use them for trials on the back. Disks are very consistent and predictable, and that is only achievable with a smooth surface – even if grinding did work, it would be very hard to get a consistent surface. And before anyone mentions grooved disks on cars, they are not there to increase braking power, but to help stop pad glaze, and remove dirt and debris from the pad/disk interface. The numerous holes on bike disk brakes perform the same function. This is my opinion based on what I know and have experienced, I’m afraid I cant explain the science any better- If I have time in between revision I will do some research and post again!

I will be coming! even though my bikes at home right now and ive got an exam the next day, i will still be coming. should be able to get some of the dh/freeride guys from the bike club out, as they wanted to do some street.

Biro springs are good, and if there stiffer that will help stop skips. DO remove old grease, but DO NOT run the hub dry, you will just wear it our quickly. throughaly clean and regrease the freehub carrier, and the ratchet bed, and either use something like finish line wet lube, or a thin smeer of grease around the ratchet bed, and little dabs in the pawl carriers.

you can do anything if you try hard enough! just put the bikes on the back or on the roof, a mini is an amazing car to own. Ive been driving around in my dads 205 till my mini is done, and while its arguably 'modern' 'safe' and 'practical' i hate driving it, i mean yeah its great ive got a car and im thankful for that, but its boring, understeers like a pig on an icerink, and goes wrong more than a lot of minis do (although i think that’s because its my dads). even with the seats down it can be a struggle to get 2 bikes in, i prefer external mounting. not to mention due to the crap handling its less safe in the fact that your more likely to loose control yourself (i really trust minis, they are VERY predictable) plus my mini is actually newer than it lol.

I will ask my dad if he wants to keep the panda 4x4 (and he probably does) but if he doesnt, it may be available ( dunno how to get it back here though, is hundreds of miles away with no mot or tax lol)