-
Posts
1831 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by nmt_oli
-
The hope is a great hub, but will work out about the same price to get it built up with new spokes as fixing the king. have you tried ringing king up, as there warranties are fantastic and they might do you a nice deal if you send it to them to get it fixed. might be worth upgrading to the HD steel axle as well, will be stronger.
-
gay playboybunny class! 10/10 someone have another guess at mine!
-
some cartoon cat. il rate that at Pi/10 (thats 3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197 ) Sorry mines a bit small, but bonus points if anyone can guess what it is! (i took the picture if that helps)
-
I agree with Fairytale of Newyork- brilliant song, fave christmas tune. others are also good!
-
Gee atherton was never going to loose that race, still very cool though! supercar challenge, bloody brilliant!
-
I had that for a while, and it took me ages to find out how to change it. if i remember right, it was some little language symbol somewhere in the task bar i think. i found it in the end anyway, it wasnt where i expected it to be anyway. i had to google it to find out! Oli
-
That is a fecking quality advert! Am at uni, so havent seen much TV. if anyone oculd give me a save as link it would be good, for osme reason i cant seem to save any to my computer. they come up as webpages instead of videos.
-
Only in an ideal situation, if you hit a rock, or apply the front brake hard, then the force will act to compress the downtube. - and that Try-all fornt rim 590g!!! talk about heavy, its single walled and drilled too. a D521, while being slightly thinner, is double walled and not drilled and weighs the same! is also much stronger.
-
It all depends which halfords you go to. there not usually as bad as people think, in the store i used to work at most of the bike hut had a lot of experiece with our own bikes, so knew our stuff. The main problem is if i store can't find trained people, then yes, all they will be able to do is build bikes from boxes and sell them. There is a training course, but its like once a year (or maybe 6 months) but only one person from the department can go.
-
Is it a new rim, or an old rim? this makes a difference, as you will have to true an old rim more (if your building a new wheel). Do as said above for the basic tension, tighten all nipples until you can just see thread (or if there starting to get tight before that,count threads) then just keep goign around the wheel adjusting a little bit at a time. once its pretty tight place the wheel on the floor (flat, not upright) and with hands either side of the rim apply pressure, you may need to be fairly firm. you should here pinging, this is just the spokes unwinding. do this working your way aorund the rim, then flip it over and do the same. Now you need to start truing and final tensioning (this may involve dishing). place the wheel in a frame/fork if you don't have a truing stand and use pecils rubber banded to the fork or chainstay so you can see how much the rim is moving. do all adjustments gradually, its better to not adjust enough and go back to it than over adjust it and mess up the tension. To true, just tighten the spokes on one side more than the other, its common sense but it takes preactise to get it perfect. to dish, work your way round the whole rim and tighten one side, and loosen the other by 1/4 turn until the whel is central. After this chack tension, and again de-stress the spokes (the floor thing) you may need to check true agian after this. although it is anoying having to keep truing it, it means it will stay straight when you ride. To really bed the spokes in, its best to get an old plastic costed crank arm, or somehting simlar (long with soft covering) and place it between two spokes whree they cross on the same side, and twist them round each other. you can be fairly forceful with this. It shouldnt affect the true, but will affect the tension. afterwards however, the wheel will STAY straight. Other people may not agree with these methods, these are just what i use, and they have worked so far! no snapped spokes (ever), no bad bends, only buckles due to crashing (except on one wheel ive used for 2 years is now off by about 2 mm, but ive never trued it again, and its runnign a disk so it doesnt matter). I also built a wheel for a dirtjumping friend of mine who went through 3 rear wheels (factory made jobbies), its still perfect and hes amazed.
-
1) if im not busy with uni work 2) if im not busy going home lol
-
It will be fine. Its only levers with a resevoir that may hold air at the top, ie HOPE and some magura's. even then, the caliper has nothing to do with it.
-
any of you out tommorrow? nick said he would be out, so il prob come over to pompey.
-
The other problem with AC converters is that the AC power leads produce a lot of signal interferance(due to magnetic fields and magnetic induction), you have to be very carfeul with lead placement, i i found out when i tried to run a playstation + screen in the the van. you have to keep the AC power loeads well away from any signal or speaker leads.
-
no problem :'( The procedure above refers to all hope brakes using the mini lever (mini, M4, mono mini, mono m4, mono 6ti), however the procedure for the older brakes is fundamentally the same. If you have an old hope, it is worth investing in a hope spanner, as it fits the top caps perfectly and helps prevent rounding off liek you get when you use an adjustable. If you have an open system ( O2, DH4, Enduro 4 ) using sport or pro levers then follow the procedure above, with the only difference that the resevoir cap unscrews rather than unbolts, and it doesnt have a diaphragm. If you have a closed system ( C2, XC4 ) then instead of pushing the pistons home, you have to unwind the silver dial on the resevoir cap before removing it (similar to the way you unwind maggie tpa before bleeding). you shouldnt then need to push pisotns home, but is worth checking. then follow instructions above. Also note that some old hope claipers secure pads with split pins rather than screw in pins. the old split pins ARE NOT resusable, unlike the new screw pins.
-
that would be way too low, 22:12 is really not high enough for general riding. for a good allround bike, you want a 32 or 36t chain ring, and a full range cassetter at the back (low enough gears for trials then. keep it light, and have as low frame as posisble while maintaining long seat tube for the longer rides (ie 16" frame, amybe 14" frame depends how tall you are. short travel 80-100mm forks, as hard as you can would be good. you could always get some rigids, and a new headset race so its very easy to change them over depending what riding your doing. my mate did this and could switch forks in 10-15 mins. you would then have a pretty good alround bike. i learnt trials basics on my jump bike, so don't be too put off. if you like trials, then think about getting a specific bike. no need to jump into anything.
-
Remove pads, hold good piston in while you pump bad piston out (don't go too far) apply some silicon lube to the piston and push back in. pump in and out for a while, should then be good.
-
I have had a good time reading htis thread, theres been some good points raised and some bull, and ive had a laugh. i do love a good TF debate :'( . better put my opinion in! Luckily, i havent had too much of a problem with people taking the piss, or calling me gay. the only time ive seen it has been on rides and chavs walk past ect. I have respect for every dicipline in cycling, they are all hard in there own way. i have a variety of rigs, and people (non bikers) ask me why becaus they look so similar, all 26" mtbs, but ive got an XC rig, a trials rig and a jump/street rig. for me the jump rig has good memorys, its the first bike i custom built, and i learnt so much on it. even though i don't use it much anymore, i cant bare to let it go. i did everything on it, a bit of trials, dh, jumping, street, even xc lol. People are often jelous because they can't do something, this is probably what creates insults ect. i just chill, and say fair play to you! make love not war lol. now i love trials as its what a lot of my local friends were doing when i was gettting into mtb's. i think its a great disipline, has a very friendly feel, group rides are alway a laugh, and it gives you amazing bike handling skills which you can transfer to other riding disciplines. Im glad to see the bmx influence entering trials, it shows that we are becoming excepted, and a lot of bmx'ers i know are ex trialsers, or really do respect trials, if they dis us its a joke, hey, everyone entitled to that. i love watching bmx, and i wish i could do that kinda thing, its just not for me. confidence is my downfall (i dont have much), and ive never got on with small bikes, dunno why, mods and bmxs just feel so wrong to me. but i have to say, my favorite thing to do on my bike is to go out on a warm summers evening on my xc bike, and apreciate the countryside. im not fit enough to race, i doubt i ever will be, i just love cruzing, challenging my self with the hills, and blasting down the otherside. for me, nothign beats the thrill of a long climb rewarded by a great view. i stop get off my bike and just think, its so amazing, i just forget about everything and listen/watch the world before blasting it home. so hard to describe. as people have said, its about having fun, and doing what you enjoy. it doesnt matter what you wear or what you ride (i used to try and ride trials on a saracen full sus while wearing what i now consider horrible clothes, but at the time they were comfy lol!).
-
Hmmm, you may need to replace the rubber diaphragm then. sometimes they an split or tear when you undo / do up the screws as it can twist the rubber. how badly is it leaking? are there any dents in the top cap, or is it all good condition?
-
Ok, you probably just didn’t put the top cap/diaphragm on properly, this causes seeping. To bleed a hope brake: Tools required: 8mm ring spanner 4mm allen key for lever 2mm (I think) allen key for top cap bolts 3mm allen key Plastic tubing An old bottle Some tape DOT 5.1 fluid Copper grease A rag Dust sheet /big rag What to do: *Put the bike in a convenient place to work on it, ie bike stand or somewhere it’s not going to get knocked. *Remove the wheel and pads from the calliper to prevent contamination from leaks. Push pistons ‘home’ into calliper using tyre lever or a spanner *Put dust sheet / rag under the bike where your working to catch drips *Set up brake lever so the top of the reservoir is flat to prevent spillage. *Put ring spanner over bleed nipple, followed by plastic tube. Feed tube into the old bottle, and tape the bottle to fork/frame to it doesn’t get knocked over *Now, remove top cam and diaphragm from the lever. *Undo the bleed nipple ¼ of a full turn (anticlockwise) and squeeze the lever slowly all the way to the bars. *Close the bleed nipple. *Let the lever return to normal position. – note how the fluid level decreases during this step. *Repeat this open-pull-close-release procedure until all fluid is replaced. Remember to top up the reservoir periodically. If you see the reservoir empty, you will have introduced air into the system – keep going and don’t let it get that low again! *Watch the tube on the bleed nipple for a colour change (showing you when the new fluid has flushed the system) and for bubbles. Keep going until no more bubbles are seen. It is worth tapping the lever and calliper periodically (sharply with a spanner or similar) to free trapped air. *Once you are satisfied, close the bleed nipple and top up the fluid reservoir to the brim. *Now get the rubber diaphragm (may be stuck under top cap) and roll it on from one side so as to minimise air trapped beneath it (if you just plonck it on top, there will be trapped air which may work its way into the system when bike is upside down). Keep the rag directly under the lever at this point, its can be messy with overflowing fluid. *Then replace top cap, and wipe down lever. *Remove bleed equipment from the calliper, make sure there is no fluid present that may contaminate pads or disk. *Wash hands before reinstalling pads/disk – your fingers will be covered in fluid! *Now dab copper grease on the back of the pads (helps reduce noise and seizing pistons) and reinstall them, followed by the wheel. *Pump the lever to re-centre the pads. *Ride! :'( FAQ if you like guys! thought i may as well write a proper how-to (applies to all hope brakes using the mini lever) as a lot of people don't know how to bleed brakes properly. i can also write up a section appliying to the old pro and sport levers too if any one needs it.
-
Portsmouth-this Saturday/sunday....
nmt_oli replied to Prawny Baby's topic in Member Organised Rides
cool. ill try and get some work done, and probably pop over tomorrow! Oli -
Portsmouth-this Saturday/sunday....
nmt_oli replied to Prawny Baby's topic in Member Organised Rides
are we riding tommorow or sunday? im going to be knacered if its tommorrow (well, today now lol). Oli -
Sorry if im bitching, its just i hate all the false power figures that are always thrown around with car audio. pretty much no manufacturer quotes true values (apart from real high end stuff). That amp looks ok, and im sure it sounds fine, im just saying its been hyped up. I would rather go for something cheaper by a slightly more well known company. at least i then know where i stand. I only have done one full install so far, in my dads chevy van, and it has a calculated rms value of 1200w total and its a system comprising of 6 speakers (4 fronts , 2 rears), and 2x 12" subs, everything amped. It may not sound a lot of power (in fact less than you were quoting for your one amp) but you can't sit in the van at full volume, its too loud, and theres no distortion.
-
Your a bit stuck there nick! I would either go for: 1)in your room with dust sheets 2)see if anyone lives nearby that you know whos house you could raid for an hour or so (come over ot salisbury if you have to! i wouldnt mind (i go home fairly regularly) and fred and tic are nice guys so if you arranged it prob wouldnt mind (don't quote me :P ) 3) could you use a workshop in the engineering dept. or something? i know i could do that here.
-
Im much more inclinded to belive those specs, probably copied off the box/spec sheet rather than the 'description' that is most likely going to be written by the shop. 75w rms per channel is a reasnoble claim, and fairly average for high end amps at 4 ohms. 150 however, is a little more adventurous. Just out of interest, what fuse rating does it have? (not listed and is unclear from the picture) looks like a red standard blade fuse, but that would only be 10 amp. If its a red maxi fuse then thats 50 amp. going on the simple calculation P = IV where I= current and V= voltage, typical operating voltage of a car alternator is 14.5v with engine running, and max current according to that fuse is 50A. that gives a 725W power, however thats assuming 100% efficiency. depending on the class of amp, i would guess its class A or Class B since its designed to run ful range speakers as well as subs, then typical efficiencies are about 70%, although can be less. So, 725 x (70/100) = 507.5 w Rms max. now thats believeable at 2 ohms, and is not too far short of quoted figure above. It gives you 127W per channel at 2 ohm, or 63.5W pre channel at 4 ohms. still a decent amount of power. if you assume efficiency of 80% then it comes even closer (580W max) but 80% + efficiencies are only achieved by class D amps, which are designed for running subs and sound really bad running full range speakers (basically they 'sqaure off' the signal, making it easier to transmit, but also distorting it, which is not as noticeable with bass. just for comparison, my big mono block amp i mentioned earlier has 4x 20 amp fuses, so 80 amp total rating. its also a class A/B despite being a bass amp (hence it sounds unbeliveable with a good sub like an alpine or an infinity). so, P = 80 x 14.5 = 1160W 1160 x (70/100) = 812W rms at 2 ohm, 406 rms at 4 ohm. :P Also, don't be fooled too much by all the gimicks, tryign to run any amp with 'virtual' (the 6 speaker theatre mode) channels, even when there designed for it just doesnt work. Its very hard to get things balanced, and the amp has to work far too hard and they just overheat and usually end up clipping, which is very likely to fry the speakers and the amp if run for long.