nmt_oli

Plus if it was a 'wrap around and join' type boot, then they take significantly less time to fit, but are not as good quality.

Nice an messy there andy! just redone my door- and don't say there arent enough bike pics on it- it because it has bike pics on it since i moved in in sept, thought it could do with a change. also included is a nice pic of my desk in its current state, showing nice new shuttle computer! too bad about the small screen- but no money for bigger right now! (it was either dell 20" widescreen, or KAD brakes for mini, i went for the brakes lol!)

91%! boya

those bottles are cool! Heres my Uni room before christmas, note the dirty plates, and trials bike attempting to be hidden as im not allowed it in my room Im tidying this afternoon, so will post some new pics up later.

Im about to have the pleasure of this to try and get my dads pug working! Since i have to replce the brakes, i may as well do the leaky cv boot thats on there. The only concern i have, is that its not the origonal engine, so it may not be the origonal shafts / cvs, so finding the right ones could be fun!.

Yeah, my bets on that whole CV joint being worn/damaged. im afraid i have no idea of cost, i would reccomending getting quotes from a few garages.

It is quite possible they are realted. The CV boot is a protective cover covering the CVD (constant velocity driveshaft) keeping dust out, and grease in. if its been plit for a while, then its likly that the CV has dried up, and is causeing that knocking. It may have worn it quite badly, in which case you will need a replacement CV drive as well as the boot. Replceing the boot is a pretty involved task anyway, unless you go for a wrap around and glue jobby, which isnt as good as a full one. unless mechanically competent, take it to a trusted garage that reminds me, i think i need to do a CV boot on the pug as well as the steering rack and brakes bummer.

Im running a 15" tft at uni, as i can't afford a bigger screen now. and its native res is 1024x768. im just used to it now, as my laptop is the same. Many many computers still run 15" moniters and 1024x768. i know almost all of the public computers in my uni are, except the ones in dedicated enginnering rooms or art rooms, that run CAD and photoshop and stuff. if you want to design for bigger, then have an option at the home page- a version of the site for 1024, and a version for larger. having to scroll up and down the picture is really anoying.

The problem is, the HU is the signal processor, this is where a lot of the decent sound comes from. If you have £2000 worth of speakers and amps, nicely installed, it could still sound rubbish with the signal sent from a cheap HU.

Tic is right. It is possible ot use that linked setup on your HU, but it will be hard to setup, and you wont be able to adjust the bass level, or the fader at the HU, it will all have to be done at the amp. If you don't understand basic electrics/electronics theres a ggod chance you could wire something in wrongly, and that will damage your equipment, or possibly even start a fire! really, stick with a simple set up, and get a better HU before you go for any major stuff.

I'm sure there called 'B 4's and not before's lol. anyway, unlucky cracking it. You may be able to get a new caliper for it if you check ebay, up to you if its gonna be worth it though. EDIT: posted with B_4 wiht no spaces, and auto corrects to before! lol.

Right, lots of good advise has been listed here! listen to it! don't go all out chav, its expensive, and you wont have the performance to match the looks which is embarassing. If its going to be your first year driving, i seriously doubt you would even be able to get insurance with all those mods listed, or if you can it would be VERY expensive, ie £2500+ for the year TPFT, will you dad realistically be willing to pay that? i reckon go for a real sleeper, lower it, use 15inch steel wheels that are nice and wide, painted black, no tints, no race style buckets (but maybe more supportive seats from another car). This will keep insurance down, while still making it more nimble. I don;t know about VW engine mods, so ill let you get advise from others here. Audio wise, you do not need 2x 12" subs, and remember thay are heavy! the best way of you to improve performance in your car is to reduce wieght. i have 2x12" subs powered properly in my dads 1982 chevy van (think the a-team) and it is PLENTY of base in that, when drving, if you look at a road sign, you can't read it as the letters blur with the bass! i have yet to be in the vehicle at full volume- it hurt too much before i got there! I would go with a decent head unit, the best you can afford, spend the money here and it will pay off- upgrade speakers later. Once a decent head unit is sorted, get your self some nice 6.5" comps and make sure there installed in proper enclosures you get the midbass out of the drivers. for the deeper sounds, a 10" sub will be nice and punchy while still giving good bass. Go for a 12" if you really want loud and rattly. I think that a 10" fibreglassed into the side of the boot, so you can still use the boot, is a great way of doing it in the golf. Amp the speakers and sub up, set it up properly and it will sound great, look stealth, and really surprise your mates!

you wont find many bigger speakers than 6.5" unless you want dedicated sub/middbass drivers. Just get a nice set of 6.5" components.

Even with a single multichannel amp, you will probably need multiple feeds into it, so you will need to split the wires. My kenwood 4chan amp has 2 sets of inputs, and one set of outputs. Works great in the van as the HU has 3 sets of outputs, so the balance/fader/equalisation(limited) can all be changed at the HU - its a good quality pioneer.

Very nice! im sure it will be apreciated

Hmm, im sure i posted a pic up in the thread when it was running too, maybe i missed the deadline or something, but it was ages ago and i didnt think i did. That would sort out numbers too. Oh well, some good pics there, will have to post mine up next time! EDIT: ahh, jsut done a search and now see i was meant to email it off to someone instead of just post it in the pic thread. Oh well, i will save it for next time!

sounds about right. there lovely cars! just check out the mini thread! I still havent driven my own mini, which is meant to be my first car lol! under full resoration. been driving y dads though!

As you only have 1 set of outputs from the HU, you will need to split them. this can be done a number of ways. 1) put cables into one amp wiht an input and an output, and use another cable to go from the outputs from that amp to the inputs of the next. go in the 6x9 amp first, then out to the sub amp. 2) split the cables with splitters, and run straight into the two amps. 3) get very high tech and expensive with an equaliser- not worth it if you HU only has one output! you will not make full use of it. set the amps up so the sub amp is on a low pass filter, if adjustable set it to your liking- experiment. set the 6x9 amp to either full pass, or highpass.

I had a 100% processor problem on my new computer when i built it, it was something to do with a particular process which wasnt a piece of spyware, but a windows process, so everytime you stopped it, it started agian, and if you deleted it off the HD it regenerated on system restart, i had to go into the registry and disable the function. I believe it was something to do with interenet proxys and so on, i can't remember. It hasnt affected my interenet so far though.

King have been developing this for a few years now, so it will be good- but im not sure if it will be so great for trials. As this will be made to a very high standard, with very good needle bearings and good seals it will be ideal for XC, and will most likely outlast any other BB on the market in terms of muddy miles. For trials though, it may be useful due to the strong axle and bearings, but it may be too expensive for its worth as the forces from trials are harsh in this area, so could lead to accelerated damages on the bearings. Strength is much more inportant than smoothness and sealing on a trials BB, and while the king will be strong, i doubt it will be value for money strong. Also bear in mind king do things light- so that goign to be a Ti axle, steel would be far too heavy, so it will cost over £100.

Why? because black pads wont grip, and will just shred- i speak from experince- landed a drop and fell fell on my arse, and pads wore down half way in just one day.

Try just new pads, get the rotor, give it a proper scrub in strong degreaser/spirits and then wash it all off properly, to make sure theres no trace left- when spirits evaporate, they can still leave a residue containing the oil. It all need to be wiped off while still wet, and repeated. also try dishwashing again, coupled with just new pads should save you some money. Also make sure the inside of your calliper is clean, as you dont want to recontaminate parts when you reasemble!

Hmmm, im not sure if you really need to take it apart as it shoudl be lubed up properly from the factory, if you do however, try and invest in some proper CK ringdrive lube, its not that expensive, and is worth it. Use this lube on the drive rings, and finishline on the helical spline, and a bit of gt85 everywhere else, and it will be fine. the reason people recomend not riding trials on kings straight away is because the bearings seat themslevles fully in the flange (which will have changed size very slightly since manufacture due to the tension of the spokes) and cause the axle (not cones- there are no cones whoever said that!) to come loose. A loose axle is the primary cause of skipping and damage to a king, and you often dont realise until its too late. Its good therefore to do a few hours on it on an XC bike, and check the axle regularly. It will probably only need tighting once or twice before being settled, but better to be safe than sorry. It also allows the bearings themsleves to wear in a bit, although i doubt it makes much of a difference. Then just ride trials on it as much as you like. Alternatively you can go straight into trials riding- but make sure you check the axle REGULARLY as you might not realise until too late, and on a trials bike this has much worse consequences than an xc bike (if your in the middle of a move or whatever)

No- harsh sand paper is bad for a disk rotor. if anyhting, use fine wet and dry. Putting your disk in the dishwasher should work, but if you didnt do naything about the pads as well, then it wont. Try the dishwasher again, and either replace pads or boil them, then sand the surface off and re-bed in the brake- it will be like new, so will take a while to get back to full power.

Sorry to go off topic form origonal post- but i feel this is important! DO NOT run a full radial wheel with a disk brake, the hub will just wind up and spoke will rip out of the flange, it has been done! I wouldnt recomend 2x either, as its not actually that strong, in terms of rotational forces. If you want to look different, and save wieght, do one side of the wheel (the one with the larger flange on the hub if theres a difference) in 3x, and the other side radial. this looks cool, and is strong enough for the disk, and your still saving weight. I built a rear (xc) wheel in half 3x/half radial as it wasnt using a disk, and it was very nice. silver hub, black spokes, black rim with silver braking surface- looked MINT, made people look twice. sadly that bike got stolen