liam-pantera

when i watched that video most people were making the comment that it felt very resposive , but then i noticed that all the bikes had chriskings on and in all the pictures . My point is that shurly thats makes the pedal stroke more responsive , another disadvantage of the belt drive is that they have a slipping alowence but i would think that aslong as the belt is maintained and well reinforced it would be safe . i would happily try it

how i miss her so much but atleast ur giving her some goin over mate , if ever u sell let me know id mlvoe to have her back

depending how good your engineering knolege is you could try this , get a m8 bolt and set it in a vice under a piller drill with a 4.5mm drill bit center pop the m8 bolt so thast the drill bit will sit in the bolts thread drill out the bolt making it hollow and then procede to putt a m5 thread in with a tap then tap your damaged mount out to m8 thread and insert the hollow bolt with locktitght or a epoxy resin compound aplied to ensure the bolt wont work free. if the bolt protrudesthen cut the bolt off with a angle frinder and retap the hole and that should be a permenent fix . as well as using a piller drill you could use a horizontal lathe

www.unicycle.com they stock all dx32 sizes

ive been looking at this topic for the past to weeks and you might be very proud of your modification but soon u will be buying a new rim , i cracked the center of the first section of rim which u removed . then it split and my rim became wider because of the preasure of the tire . this effects the braking and has efectivly made the rim weaker and lighter . also what was the point in posting those pictures of you doing a sidehop , from the looks and sound of it your trying to say that by losing 150 grams that u can no hop about a foot higher theres no logic in that atall , nice modification and good on you for trying but i think it was pointless . alass i wish people would go back to the old times and ride a bike without silly holes or weight saving bolts

It should be posted on www.bmx-forum.co.uk but you didnt know . thats a nice bike man , considering thats stock its pritty ready to run and the spec looks nice , colour is abit overkill but still its nice .

hi the best way to run gears on a trials bike is keep it simple , the best mech to have is a cheap shimano sora but it has to be a short cage as there is less to hit , when you set up your chain length put the bike into the lowist gear ( bigist cog ) and make the chain as short as possible , you can run gears with a front freewheel but if your rear hub is a freehub then u need a cog up front idealy . you need the some gears that would actualy be relavent to trials i mean theres no point have 4 that are to hard to pedal hop with and 2 that are right , try and find a cassete with nice close ratios aswell as in 1 tooth difference . also set the deruiler properly as then it shouldnt skip and set the hi and lo good luck if u need anymore help message me

im asuming you have a fixed tensioner . in this case the problem is caused by your cogs being abit warped the only thing to do is run the chain tensioner so its puching up and then jublie clip it to your frame this isnt very healthy for your cogs and chain but unless you go back to a sprung tensioner or a derulier you have no option .

I think the axel design is far better than that of a tryall or even the new echo hub , the problem with using m6 bolts is that they just cant be tightened enough but with a spanner and 15mm nut they will stay realy tight and make the chain tension more reliable Im not sure about the screw on aspect of the hub though i think that the echo style cog is much better deisgn and enables cog and gear changes to be done in minuits not hours .

i find that when your lever gets like that the only thing to do is use some realy realy thick oil inside of the brake to lube it up .

i seem to rember you wearing shorts like that at comps joe well dont to them all the worlds just seem to be getting harder so fair play to gilles .

what u mentioned above ive done , i took a onza t bird and fitted it with top spec echo and koxx parts and it rode awsome , the t-bird is seriously under rated and can be a awsome street bike .

close danny frame gu 06 short forks zoo reverese arch headset is a black echo bars are silver zoos 2005 cranks are echo cnc 2006 and the front pads are zoo , thats is basicly

thanks for the replys guys , basicly im trying to get a idea how certain pads react as i usualy use plazmatic / coust but i know these dont work very well with a boooster so im having to look elcewere .

so how much are u charging for this crossover and when is it likely to be for sale ?

hi guys , right im going away soon and i want to take my bike only thing is my brake is very very loud so what i need is some new pads that will work realy well with a booster so i have a stiff and strong brake . so what pads work realy well from personal experiance and would u consider the echo cnc booster abit overkill ? thanks for any help

the drop out looks identicle/similar to the ones that come on monty 221 ti and pr forks and ive ran both and they were fine , in all honesty the forks look of a nice quality and the fact we havnt herd of any breaks can only be a good sign .

just a warning if u dont run a seatpost on a base then it will crack at the top tube .

hah that looks spookily similar to fosters bike

frame ; monty 221 ti 2005 in scotchbright forks ; monty 221 stem : monty 221 ti bars ; zoo 2005 brakes ; raceline magura 2005 with monty ti bolts and hose splitters pads ; plazmatic crm front and coust 35mm rear front hub : 221 ti disk rear hub ; black profile cranks ; monty 221 ti isis rims ; tryall black tyres ; creepy crawlers yh so ive rode this bike before and its amazing , due to the parts being so old i doubt i would ever find one now

The allen key is for the stop steering system which stops your bars spinning round , i allways thought this was a pritty stupid peice of kit though . bike looks awsome just need to change the rims and get a bigger rotor on the front .

Id stay away from any non sprung tensioner because if u get any slight bends in your cogs or your chain has stretched in sertain parts the tension will keep dropping , feel free to try it though but your better off with a sprung one or a nice rear mech .

as i type this im getting ready to go to halfords and hand in my notice , at first they treated me quite well but then they just started using me so everyone could have a day off whenever thay felt like it . it was realy good fun to start with but now iam leaving as they havnt payed for any of the overtime ive done ( its alot ) so they can f**k , also they refused me 2 days off so i could have my last holiday .

they were called gings youth but there was another name which im sure somone wil fill in for me something to do with dave haha

monty milk pads filthy ard guards racface cranks 20"pashely frames mavic d521 rims jacknife forks