liam-pantera

theres some real innovation thats gone into that freewheel , if my engineering degree is teaching me anything the fact is coated in ceramic will mean it will have less friction so the chain will glide off and on the teeth easer and the machined internals sounds amazing il definitely consider upgrading to one .

i have to agree with some of the post above the welding and overall construction of the frame just seems weired , im wondring how they welded that beacuse it doesnt look like tig as the welds are huge but maybe its been done with senergic . I think it looks strange were there is a small rectangle of metal going across the seat tube and stays , it just seems un necesary unless it works as a booster . apart from that the frame does look nice and simple which should prove popular and i say stick with verticle dropouts .

I do not like that frame at all , which such a small space between the frames they may as well used a mono tube design which would have saved weight . I think the colours are a little bit sicodelic for me as well but the other rockman frames are very nice especial the aurra .§

I do not like that frame at all , which such a small space between the frames they may as well used a mono tube design which would have saved weight . I think the colours are a little bit sicodelic for me as well but the other rockman frames are very nice especial the aurra .§

it looks identical to the 2001 base ta26 i had one and it rode very nice , your bike looks nice too .

metal cutting disks wear really quickly but there still useable after they start to frey . if you want a slightly ruff rim for smooth pads use a mop disk to sand the surface but if your after a really deep sharp grind use a cutting disk stainless or mild steel it doesn't really matter .

74 kingz make a realy stiff booster but you may want to just modify a 4 bolt booster .

dont know anything about them but those brake levers are definitely a avid rip off .

tig weld it yourself , its not that much of a specialist job really just the filler rods are more expensive and you need pure argon. like everyone else has been saying get on directory inquiry and help out your local business .

i don't quite understand this , you have threaded 3 frames but you cant get these repaired or helicoiled ? tartybikes offer a service to re-tap and helicoil frames now and you could help out the economy by taking your frame to a engineer and let him fill the mount and re drill and tap it for you its a 30 min job but there might be a problem with your new frame and current hub as if you use 6mm of shims on the hub the amount of axel that sits in your frame will be reduced which will put more stress on your axel and frame .

ive tried them before on a smooth and a grinded rim , there alot better on a smooth rim when there set up properly and abit of tar but on a grind the life is terrible . stick the the plaz crm there just the best pads ever made .

breaking is due to friction , if the surface of the rim is rougher it bites into the pad creating better hold . thats the science basically , but if you have the right pads and you grind your rim the performance will be noticed instantly . ( sorry if spellings wrong or it don't make sense i have been drinking )

rear disk mount very impressing looking bike it seems monty are really capitalizing on the smaller competition bikes and they seem to be a very good standard and ergonomically designed . hes a very lucky boy i hope he is enjoying it .

If you change your rear hub to a tryall 2005 hub or the new one you could save loads of weight , theres no need to start drilling loads of holes . your bike does look quite nice though .

thank you for all the replies keep them coming , i'm liking the titanium nixens and the one bongo sujested .

Right basicly i want to buy a new watch but i don't have a clue who make good reliable watches that still look nice , im not looking to spend over £200 so that rules out rolex so can anyone help me ?

I've just bought a monty with a tryall freewheel and its just started skipping really badly , i didnt realise it was a tryall freewheel until i cleaned the muck away from it . im going to lube it and try a few other things but at the minute it looks like i'm getting a monty freewheel .

I've used the shimanno shoes before , they have a really nice feel and they secure to your feet really well . The only complaint i have is that they are quite wide towards the toes but apart from that i recommend them .

crankbrothers colbolt bb should do it and possibly tryall carbon bars and full titanium bolt kit . apart from those its a realy realy nice bike looks clean and simple .

you could easily get them welded up and as long as you used a headlock device you should be fine .

the problems with acs claws are that they have a exposed lockring which easily screws free , they lack engagements and there loose ball bearings . but apart from that there a realy good freewheel for beginers and very very gentle riders. If you are going to buy one i recomended getting a welded one from select bikes or putting a spot of weld on yourself , good luck .

dont go , all the spots have been closed down now and there arnt any riders there anymore .... derbys dead go to notts

thanks for all the comments guys , its gonna help me alot in my choice , ive had bb5 bb7 hope magura and i liked the bb5 the best but we shall see if i get one of these onza's .

i only said it was a onza copy because i saw the gusset brake nearly four years ago attatched to a identiti jump bike so thats why i thought , i have no idea what this brake is like thats what i want to know . depending on how good they are is the deciding factor in me buying one of the new onza's .

hi guys , im buying a new bike in the newyear and one of my options is the onza pro , obviously im gonna change some parts but i want to know what those disks are like so can anyone tell me if they will even hold my weight , they only need to last about a month then i will replace them with hope mono trials or bb7 . id apretiate any help