Greetings

Yeah, definitely going to do that insert. Adam recommends using slow setting araldite.

The spacer is underneath the cup, not above it and no, Tarty did not agree to this because I only just came up with the idea. It saves having to make a new top cup, instead all one needs to make is a nice fat and tight spacer which will go underneath the cup. Would need to buy a headset which has really long inserts but that's not a problem. Not too bothered about weight at the moment, the fork is bloody stiff and already feels so much better than the Echo SL even though I've only done some pivots and front wheel hops on it.

Got an at least temporary solution. Looked through some trials headsets and found the Bonz top cup to be perfect. The split ring which comes in contact with the steerer is on the very top of the headset which is also a pretty tall one. Neon bottom cup was the fattest I could find (colour doesn't match unfortunately ), it also has a thick base plate which adds another 1mm to the stack height. Now at 137mm, however there is a spacer underneath the top cup. Not keen on this. It could be an idea to look for a headset which has really long head tube inserts, that way one could safely place a fat spacer between the top cup and the frame.

Yes, that seemed to be logical but I spoke to Adam from Tarty today and we concluded that I should just get a tall headset and Bob's your uncle. I spent the whole day looking for tall headsets, the tallest one I found was a 32mm Token. Didn't think this would be good enough though so didn't buy it. 104mm + 32mm = 136mm which is literally on the borderline. We're going to see if we can't machine something that will solve the problem. Either a custom top cup or the top part of the headset (not sure what it's called).

Brilliant riding, but the surroundings look so depressing.

Looks fun. Seems they're going to feature the Brutus or whatever it's called, that should be interesting.

My friend makes them, I used to ride these pads on and off throughout my "career". To briefly sum up their performance, I wouldn't say they're as good as LGM's (in my opinion nothing can beat them) but they are definitely worth trying if that makes sense. I used the soft compound on a light grind.

Not going to tell you what they're made of because it could hurt future sales.

So can we agree that a taller headset is not a remedy to this problem?

Yep. The only mod-stock frames were the A1, Pitbull and Control.

Wasn't going to go into any detail and just sort it out over the phone tomorrow but ok, here's my problem. I don't understand why the stack height is important rather than where the bearings are. It seems illogical. The bearings are always going to be a few mm above and below the head tube. So even if I get a headset which has a thick base plate and a tall top bearing crown thingy, how on earth is that going to change anything? How is it going to solve the problem of there possibly being a durability issue when stem stackers don't add up to the minimum required height? In short, how is this headset in conjunction with the TA fork practically different to an Echo headset with a ~10mm spacer?(ignoring the fact that it's an integrated headset) Secondly, ending at 135mm from the crown of the fork is a somewhat important looking sticker with hand written information. I'm going to guess it's exactly in that place for a good reason, one being that it tears off fairly easily and could therefore be a form of a warranty seal. It also makes it impossible to slide anything onto the fork lower than 135mm from the crown. That would mean that the it marks the minimum height the top bearing has to be from the crown. Is this correct? If so, using a tall headset doesn't help at all. f**k me, all I'm trying to do is keep the current frame which I really like and avoid ruining forks which are 10x my annual fork budget.

Well they certainly look good leaning against the wall Going to call Tarty tomorrow and inquire about this stack height now that I know what I'm dealing with. This thread has gone to lead a life of its own...

Rip dude. My thoughts are with his family, it must be hell for them.

7 pages? Really?

Seems flex is no longer considered to be an issue. On that basis I thought I'd give this a shot myself. I tried to weigh them but failed to get an accurate reading.

Well, it's all down to your age. 20" trials bikes are generally meant for children, while 26" bikes are for mature riders.

Wow, that's some great riding. And what a style too.

Smooth rim + good pads + tar = brilliant performance in the dry. Better even than I've found LGM's to be on a harsh grind. The downside of a smooth rim and tar is that the pads may stick a bit so it's less responsive. But the hold is amazing.

Got the fork and I finally understand what people have been talking about in this thread. It's a perfect fit. Either way it's winter so I'll take up the matter of installing and riding this fork in a few months. Thought I'd get them on the bike to see how they look like, but there's a sticker in the way stopping me from getting it all put together. Sticker ends roughtly where the 135mm mark is. Clever. I hope scratching it up a bit doesn't influence warranty. And if it's not meant to be obstructed by a headset top race then I can't see how it's possible to mount this even on a Chris King headset.

He's bloody brilliant but had to stop watching half way through because some robot was vomiting all over my ears.

Looks like a Mielec.

Morbidly obese people apparently can't see their penis (or so Family Guy has lead me to believe). But seeing one's shin bone which is about 1mm beneath the skin is a skill most trials riders acquire at some stage. Unfortunately I haven't taken pics of my shin bone since it's hardly jack off material. If only I had known that it would come in handy on the 13th of January 2012...

I do like this bike quite a lot.

Sorry to bump this but is there currently any record of anyone actually testing this brake? In my mind it cannot work, would like to be proved wrong prease.

That. You can't get more locking power than with a BB5/BB7 and a well set up SD7 lever. My choice for the past 3 years has been a rim brake. I like a lot of bite, makes the bike feel like a precision tool if that makes sense.