Bigman

I think Rob needs to wear his helmet! looks like you guys are having fun on the 24's! Adam

Will see what i can do, might be able to make it down...... Adam

Cool vid that Dan, Will get some more riding in soon!! Adam

If I move up your way again i will get a streety beast built up for blasting about on Adam

Might be up for this...... Adam

Looooks sweet dude! Hows the rear hub now, did mr tart sort that bad boy?? Adam

Cool little vid that Patrick! Shame there are no rocks like that down my part of NZ I see you have still got your ankle taped up, still giving trouble? Dude on the Uni (I forgot his name) looks to be getting even better, he was awsome at the taupo event! Adam

Grrrr my train doesn't get into Truro until 7.40pm, ah well, another day Adam

Yeh, thats abit hard in cornwall, there aren't exactly a vast amount of riders, its the same reason why alot of my vids tend to be tripod filmed Cool little vid that dude, will be good to get back and get some riding in! Adam

:cough:Are you sure??:cough: Rich does know alot of the spots, mainly the in town ones, There is lots of natural around, some if it is a little further to drive, maybe 45mins, but it is worth it. Penryn and falmouth are lacking in the street side of things, Penzance and truro has some ok street. As for natural, lamorna cove, carn brea, swanpool (only small but good fun), our secret quarry, porthtowan, cligga head (perranporth), St Agnes. There is loads more down west, but it has been a long time since i have ridden down there so i would struggle with directions etc...... Adam

I would be well up for this! And if you needed an extra pair of hands when you are building just let me know, I am pretty handy with a forklift I won't be back in the UK until march though, but hopefully will be based in coventry, so only a 1.5-2hr drive away. Adam

The First koxx coustellier frame, the black and orange one actualy tended to be more towards the 1100mm than 1085, but what alex said for the rest seems to be about right....... Adam

Yeh, grinding the teeth off the drive side of the CK HD axle does stop them from cracking, what happens is because the corners of the teeth are very sharp a crack will form and then travel inwards to the step where the axle diameter increases to the driveshell needle bearings sit, the crack will not reach the bearing race but it will travel around the step and then a chunk of the steel out will fall out, I have had this happen to my 2 previous HD axles, the current one has had the teeth removed so this one will last for ever One thing to note about which hub you choose, If you get a single speed you get an aluminium drive shell, it is neccesary that you run a wide based cog otherwise it will dig in and wreck the drive shell, If you can an ISO you should specify a stainless steel drive shell. Adam

I will be honest and say that it is surprising how well a single walled rim will last! I am running a try-all hOles rear rim on my 26inch and i am 125kg!! I have had it for 6 months now and it has barely gone out of true and only as one VERY small flatspot! From what I understand Ryan you are a fairly light rider, you might get away with the rim single walled. Filing the rim out will not take that long though as it is only one skin that has to be removed, I would say it would be possible within an hour or so if you realy go for it Unfortunately most people do not have access to a milling maching like I do...... Adam

Get us some pictures of the setup on your bike, maybe then we can see what the problem is exactly, it can be quite hard to understand fully from descriptions....... Adam

Some good pictures there Sam, Good to see Rob on his bike (the guy on the white control)! Adam

No idea, sorry Mark, If i had solidworks on this computer i could work it out for you, but unfortunatly i don't Adam

The BB on the rockman is actualy going to be abit lower than the because! I was talking to the guys the other day about it, geo is looking something like 1060, +65, 72, 370mm chainstays, I may have to try and get one myself when i get back to the UK, love the idea of a trialsy 24! Adam

I am running dual magura, and the 4 finger lever blades make a MASSIVE difference on the power of the brake, afterall you are getting a whole lot more leverage, meaning more pressure is being transmitted to the rim, I would deffinatly recomend them!! Adam

I am running a set on the rear at the moment and i have to say they are very good! The rock blue compound is a very good compound, so they are very good even when fitted to plastic backings. Recently i have ran TNN LGM's on the rear and then changed to the rockman CNC's and i have to say that i think the rockpad does have a slight edge on the LGM's in terms of hold, bite and noise are similar but the hold is slight better, even on a dead grind, this is something I realy notice being around 19.5st!! The cnc backing might not look as fancy as the TNN pads, but its an alu backing, the way it is machined is going to make very little difference to the stiffness, the only difference might be in the weight, but its a brake pad, so that doesn't realy matter....... I have my LGM's on the front now, which might be abit extreme Adam

Looks different Alex Although if it is the same frame i am thinking of that has been around the houses many times, is that is is not actualy a coustellier frame, it was one of the cheaper copies that were available to buy off ebay at the time, there are slight differences, they did have a disc mount but i am pretty sure Prawn removed it when he had it..... Adam

That looks awsome, I have ALWAYS wanted a proper trialsy 24, only thing I think i would change would be to make it dual disc, stick another louise on the rear. What did the wheel base come out as with those forks? Surely 18-15 would be too easy for a 24, even a trialsy setup, especialy with 175mm cranks, would 18-14 not be more suited?? Adam

Yeh, but you would be surprised what a slick will grip on! I ran a try-all tyre with around 5% tread left, so pretty much a slick and that would grip very well on natural, some times you would have to be a little carefull where you placed it or if the rocks were realy slippery (although most of the time a grippy tyre would slip in that situation), but generaly it was very good! I would go back to that tyre any time......

You can not run a hope lever with magura slave cylinders, firstly the magura slaves run on mineral oil and the hope lever uses DOT fluid, if you were to use the hope lever the mineral oil would screw the seals and if you were to use DOT witht he magura slaves the seals would die. Secondly the piston ratios would be way out, in theory you would get a much more powerfull brake as the hope lever piston is much smaller than the magura lever piston, but this would mean that you would need to set the brake pads up extremly close to the rim, which is not feasable. The open/closed system would not make a huge difference if you were to use the hope lever on the magura cylinders, but it is not needed, the reason for the open systems on disc brakes is to allow space in the resivour for when the oil heats up and expands due to the huge amount heat produced by a disc brake, and also to allow the brake to automaticaly adjust the pistons as the pads wear. So yeh, you can not run a hope lever with magura slave cylinders. As for bleeding the brakes from the bottom up, i can not see any reason why it would not work, it might just be abit more messy as the oil spills over from the resivour..... Adam