Mark W

The Echo SL freewheel is lighter, cheaper, easier to maintain and has more engagement points, whilst still being very, very reliable. It's a pretty good solution!

It's not for cleanbikes

If it shatters when you hit it, it's not D30...

My Eno was generally quite a lot of hassle to maintain. It just seemed like it needed to be stripped and serviced a bit more frequently than I'd have liked, but engagement wise it was pretty much spot on all the time. I've been running the Tensile 96-click freewheel for 2 months now and it's been pretty faultless. Before I flushed the grease out it skipped a bit riding around the car park, but once the grease was gone (easily done with a can of GT-85) it's been amazing. If you're not keen on the Tensile though, there's the Echo SL freewheel. Ali's had his on for quite a while now and I haven't seen it once skip, or even make any kind of unpleasant noises at all. It's been plain sailing the whole way. We had a big box of them turn up here today too, and just handling them they feel significantly higher quality than other super high engagement freewheels like the 108.9 (felt way, way better than that one - Ads swapped from the 108.9 to the SL today and when you compared the action of both freewheels, the SL was noticeably smoother and had a much more positive engagement feel). Out of all the ones out there, I'd recommend that one any day. There's actually a reasonable difference which you feel most riding natural, where you often have to have your cranks at weirder angles than on street simply due to the angle of the terrain you're riding. You can feel it going from the Tensile 96 to the SL in any case. I just got back into the office from having a roll around the course in the warehouse with my new SL freewheel on and it does feel super nice. Regarding spare parts 'n' stuff, the Tensile freewheels are fully serviceable and have replacement parts too, so that's not such an Eno exclusive any more.

£225 posted to your door for frame, brake (HS33 with 4-finger blade, water/antifreeze bleed, Trialtech Sport booster - all set up to work fine if you run your chain at a decent tension with 18:12, it's set up where I had it last with some fairly new LGM pads), BB (68x122.5 one, clears with almost all cranks - comes with Echo SL black crank bolts) and Urban 18t black bashring. Got no bash mounts, so it's a UCI setup...

Only been running a disc for a month or so, and this 160mm Mono Trial rotor's been amazing so I've not really felt the need to change, to be honest!

Monty's English > My Spanish.

Seems like the clearance on my Atomz forks isn't as good as the Trialtechs, but yeah, like I said (and you even quoted ), the steerer set-up is different in a very positive way.

Word.

I spent all day putting them on too

That's. What. She. Said.

Post-work delivery-unpacking pizza-party, aaaaaw yeah.

Fly haven't...

They aren't loctited on, they're just reasonably tight. You can basically go to town on them 'cos they are reasonably cheap - with an Eno you'd probably want to take a bit more care (not least 'cos the lockring's made of a soft material), but with a Tensile you can give it a good knock if you need to. There are a fair few ways around it. Tensile 96s and Echo 108s feel reasonably good, especially bearing in mind the price you're paying compared to a freehub. When you're actually riding you shouldn't really notice it much, at all. With the 60-click, you're going to notice a reduction in engagement points if you've come from a King (or even a Hope with a normal gear ratio), so something like an Echo SL would reduce that a bit.

What Dave said - that's not even going to do anything for a Tensile at all, unless you just want to batter it. A hammer and screwdriver should do the trick, but as you said before, unless you think something's actually broken there's not much that needs to be done to open bearing freewheels. Just a spray through with GT-85 or WD-40 does the job generally, does them the world of good.

A lot of people seem to have 18:13 with shorter crank arms, because the shorter cranks make it feel harder to pedal. If you run longer cranks and put on a 12t sprocket, you get that feel of 18:13, but with the power of 18:12. It just makes that 18:12 power more accessible with longer cranks, makes gapping noticeably easier. Ads was pretty skeptical at first, but I talked him into running his 175's and he's well keen on it. Fully worth a go. If you don't get on with it, you can sell the cranks on to stock riders

Hey dude - feel free to have a go if we're out on a ride. More the merrier! I know what you mean about the 4-bolt/disc version option, it would've been pretty sweet. I guess the majority of people aren't going to chop and change their setup much, and a lot of people are pretty set in their ways with what they're after. Used to have a big Trialtech black sticker with a white one underneath as a drop-shadow on the downtube, and a Tarty one on the top-tube, but I really like the look of the Dymo stickers

You f**kin' betcha! Moderately pimped now with the addition of ti bolts and other such things. Rides amazingly, which is what matters most Oh, and Dymos: Get one! Spec list is here, apart from the BB which is some FSA Pro Platinum Titanium spindled frighteningly-short-but-somehow-works-on-my-bike jobber.

My 160 Mono Trial rotor's bedded in nicely now and it's plenty bitey enough. Obviously it's not quite as bitey as a Magura is, but it's pretty close. Similarly, regarding the maintenance, pads last longer (and are cheaper than decent Magura pads), you don't need to grind your rims or anything of that kind, you don't need to buy boosters 'n' stuff to make them better - they tend to look after themselves better. I see what you're saying about bending rotors, but with a 160 it's pretty well tucked out the way on most bikes. It sucks having to be careful to not contaminate it in any way, but it's not really too much effort. Didn't really notice much of a change at all in weight distribution when I put my disc on. The positives it added to my bike certainly outweigh any potential negatives it might theoretically have. I'd rather have a brake that functions amazingly in all weather rather than a problem with the distribution of weight on the back end of my bike. I mean, apart from the rotor which is reasonably light anyway, the actual positioning of the brake caliper isn't really significant on a mod to make that big of a difference, and again, if it does make much of a difference it's outweighed by how much nicer discs are to use...

If you ride in the wet, or natural at all, they're f**king sweet! Even for street it's nice being able to do 'other' stuff where you might be feathering your brake without that Magura honking noise. I didn't really mind it so much when I had a Magura on, but once you change you realise how loud it is. It's pretty sweet not having to grind my rim every few weeks, not having to tweak pad setups, etc. Just fit and forget. Especially good in the wet too - last couple of weekends at Shipley have been wet, so it's been nice being able to trust my back brake no matter what's going on around it.

Mod: Yes. Stock: No.

I may have bought the last pair :$ I think our next K-124 order is here some time reasonably soon though, where we're going to have a bunch more in stock. I quite liked the feel of them on Adam and Stan's bikes, then when I was getting some wrist pains thought I'd try them out to see if the different sweep helped at all. Turns out it did, which was cool, but the slight extra bit of rise you get from the change in sweep compared to bars like the Trialtechs mean it's fractionally easier to lift the front end up, and - for me at least - make it more comfortable on the back wheel. They're a bit narrower than my Trialtechs were, but on my mod they feel pretty much spot on. Stan's had no complaints with them on his stock though, so it's not like they're mod-specific or anything Regarding strength, no-one here's broken a set yet, and a simlar thread on OTN showed no-one from across the pond have killed any yet either. If you're a pure basher then it might not be the best choice of bar, but for most riders they should be fine, really!

I think out of the many pairs of Sport forks we've sold, we've had one back, and that was a bit of a one-off (literally, haha). They're good, strong forks. I don't wanna sound too much like a salesman here or anything, but Dave really did look at where most 'normal' forks broke and tried to reinforce those areas, hence stuff like beefy disc mounts, different steerer setup, etc.

If it's a right hand thread, it'd be anti-clockwise to undo? Oh, and Chris, they're caged bearings so it's a doddle to mess around with. Just make sure you get the spacers back on between the lockring and the freewheel body when you're piecing it back together again