Mark W

The Trialtechs would be stiffer than the Echos. The Trialtechs really are worth the extra - Dave put a fair bit of time into making them spot on, there aren't any forks with those kinds of features on (the steerer, for example, is Dave's own design). Another way to look at it I guess is that if you'd bought Trialtechs in the first place, you'd still be running them now, whereas you bought the Echos and are now buying a new set

Try taking a cutting drill and lengthening the holes in the forks a tad, its seems a bit drastic, but it doesn't effect how flat the caliper sits, but it will gain you that extra mil you need.

In fairness to Ali, the first part is correct, as is the latter part when you factor in spoke flex and so on. However, the middle part is puuuuure shiiiiit Jan - your brake and everything got packaged up today, but just missed the UPS pick-up. It'll be leaving (with the adapter needed) tomorrow.

Haha, I'm shit, so I wouldn't put me in the Stan/Ali bracket I know what you mean, but the way you set a brake up is going to make the most difference. If they're at an angle - even a slight one - then they're going to wear out significantly quicker. If you're then scrubbing your brake and so on it's going to wear faster. Something to bear in mind is that when your pads are set up properly, and your brake is working better, you'll get less brake slip which means less pad rape. Every time you try and backwheel something and you can hear the pads squeak as you slide down a bit, that's going to be wearing your pads out more than if you land and your brake holds, if that makes sense? A better set up brake looks after the pads more, in short. It's worth bearing in mind that the refills for the LGMs are reasonably well priced too. They're a fraction more expensive than others, but once you've got past the first larger expense of buying the pads and backings they're more economical. An extra couple of minutes of allen key twiddling after you grind means that they're then going to last longer too, looking after your pads - and your wallet - more.

You don't have to be a 'top end rider' to set a brake up properly, or grind a rim properly, and it's those two factors that dictate whether your pads last months or weeks. I made sure mine were set up flat (This is actually Mark typing now, it was Ali before...) and they wore down reasonably evenly. They were also the best pads I've used in terms of bite and hold, especially considering the relatively small amount of wear over the 2 months or so I used them for. EDIT: Oh, and if you want a cheap, long-lasting set of pads then the Try-All Browns would be a good shout.

depends what disc/wheel size. A mod with a 160mm disc is like running larger than a 200mm disc on a stock, so a vee on a mod would be pretty pointless when a disk is better in most ways. The opinion of Ali C, not OBMOn a stock however, a vee just owns!The opinion of Ali C, not OBM I don't know what % more powerful a disk is than a vee (they deffo are though). But the issue is that a disc is stopping the middle of the hub, so that cancels out the extra power they have when you compare it with a vee stopping the outside edge of the rim.

I beg to differ! As long as you set them up flat and don't go mad with deep grinds, they last months. Stan had some on for two months with only 2-3mm of wear and that's with a lot of riding in all conditions

Danny's a pretty big deal at the moment, and it's basically - like they're selling it - the best possible way of getting his autograph. For all we know it could be some wealthy person buying it for their kid who saw the video and was really into it? Stranger things have happened...

If you want to see Adam hammer his own index finger with The Enforcer, check out the blog...

Miss that frame

I'd go for the disc option up front, personally. The silence is a massive bonus, nice modulation yet you know it's still going to hold you. Definitely prefer them to rim brakes for the front (and, on mod, on the back ). Magura Louise brakes are pretty sweet, but with the majority of Magura disc brakes it seems like you may need to go one size bigger than you think (e.g. if you think you need a 160, get a 180). Hopes are naturally boss, so maybe the carbon-titanium Hope Monotrial? It's amazing value compared to the standard Monotrial - the price difference is about £30 or so, which just about covers the price of the carbon fibre level blade; just one of the extras you get with it. Certainly worth considering too.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=144058 Sweet pics Ads (and Stan )!

Bit of a change of plan now, sorry... we have some car issues and Shipley is a trek from here to get pissed on I'll ask Mark if Ali has a spare one he can take!

Aye I'll bring one, have got a spare, £10? Adam

And me too probably Although 11 is looking unlikely as lazy Stan isn't here yet Adam on Mark's account...

Don't think we've got any in at the moment, but it's essentially the same as how a Ferrari will have much higher quality and attention to detail than a Fiesta. If you pay that much for a frame/bike, you'd expect it to be incredibly high quality, and this frame really is. Just look at the pics on our site - it's been really, really well thought out.

Bit late on that, the sprocket got sent off earlier on today...

You really, really need to see how nice these frames are in the flesh before saying how nice they look. Trust me - in real life, they look utterly amazing.

That's on an XC bike though. Trials is massively different. I went from a Dicta to an Eno, and the change in EPs meant I added a foot to my gaps instantly. I could suddenly make gaps I couldn't do before, and could control my bike a lot better, simply because I had a much more direct means of putting power down.

I'd be considerably more concerned about the reliability of a hub that's that light, with that many engagement points. If there's that little material in the hub (to make it that light), then it just seems like it'd be a bit sketchy. Regarding costs, it's not really just a case of multiplying the cost to the manufacturer compared to the engagement points, especially if you're trying to make it that light. All the pawls (if it had them) would need to be very precisely made if you have a ratchet that's that shallow. With the earlier protos of the Tensile 96, they used the same pawls as the 60 click and it just didn't work 'cos the ratchet was a bit shallower.

I ran a 203mm BB7 on my mod, and it was fine really. It was nice in the sense that it just worked perfectly all the time 'cos it was so big it just didn't give a shit at all about getting any crap on the rotor or anything - it just worked fine! Pretty weight beast though, but at the time that didn't matter

Gav and Ads both have the 2XU tops now. They've been selling well, and as a result we ran out of stock of some sizes this week/last week. However, we now have all the white long sleeve tops back in stock, and the tights too. Unfortunately, 2XU's shipment of black long-sleeve tops got 'destroyed' somehow, so we don't have any of them yet. Soon, soon... Anyways, get amongst it, they're back in stock (and they're also good, haha).

Entered.* *That's what she said.

Probably worth bearing in mind that if you're a basher they might not be the pedals for you, though...

The vast majority of top end caged pedals are all single cage as standard, e.g. the posh Monty ones, the Try-All Superlights...