Alex Dark Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) like what?lol, IPB ftl...ill post up again now edit: still wont work; so here's linkyhttp://www.pinkbike.com/photo/2891739/ Edited January 15, 2009 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Even better still, keep the current thumbwheel system, but just use an allen headed bolt for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Explain?Both ends of that bolt will be hidden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dang! Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Explain?Both ends of that bolt will be hidden.+1 Trust me- the way I've got it set up works pretty damn nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onzatrip Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 has the mod started to be made yet as a proto or still in cadcam stages and is there a list for the mod yet as im defo willing to test it tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dang! Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 has the mod started to be made yet as a proto or still in cadcam stages and is there a list for the mod yet as im defo willing to test it trisThe photo of the frame on the jig is a Mod-The list for the mod is growing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 My mate has a tensioner like that on his GasGas EC300 enduro bike. Although instead of a thumb wheel, it uses a larger bolt (bigger wheel) with a normal nut on it, so you can use a spanner on it.If you get that thread dirty, which could happen, then you could get the thumbwheel on it stuck, and by the looks of it there isn't really a way to get any tools on it to help it turn!?I do like the intergrated tensioner idea though, but I think a normal nut on there with enough space for a spanner would be better. Then if the nut does get ruined, you can easily replace it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RossMcd Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Or you could strategically place a tapped hole so you can also run snail cams as an alternative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Explain?Both ends of that bolt will be hidden.Combine this imageWith this imageSo imagine there is an allen head on the left hand end of the bolt in the top pic, allowing you to use an allen key incase the thumb wheel becomes too hard to turn.Either that or use a bolt with an allen head built into the end, like a grub screw, but bigger and longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) But this built in tensioner would be so much better than snail cams! I can't see why you'd want to use snail cams over this? Jon: The end of the long bolt will be inside the chainstay, so you wouldn't be able to get to it at all! Edited January 16, 2009 by Dan6061 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 True that, I just saw it like the way that most companies (like Onza) do it, with the screw coming out the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 i reckon my ideas the best one.....m4 bolt ( basically a brake booster bolt )...sorted throught he dropout against the axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley-Wood Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 i say put the head on the end of the first image just incase the tpa thing does get stuck so you can adjust another way. otherwise if the tpa thing was to get stuck because of a bit of dirt, people will have to start carrying a hammer and flat headed screw driver round with them to make it twist. i would like to see this in action for when someone has to set up there wheel. make a short video please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I did think that earlier!Have the head of the bolt inside the block that pushes the axle, so you drill a 5mm hole for the M5 bolt (or whatever) then a 10mm hole just deep enough for the head of the bolt to sit in (10mm was a guess!)So like said, if the thumbwheel does get stuck, you can still get the bolt out to clean up the threads/replace the bolt, as long as you can find a way to stop the thumbwheel from turning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 or cut out the hassle and use my design you could even put an end on it to make it like an rb / freshproducts tpa system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 or cut out the hassle and use my design you could even put an end on it to make it like an rb / freshproducts tpa systemPlease explain to me how you'd do up an allen key bolt where the head is INSIDE the chainstay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenLeacock™ Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I don't see why if there was like a rubber seal around both ends of the ''tpa'' why it would cause any problems. Plus, if you used a standard magura sized tpa, it would mean if for some reason it snapped or broke, replacements are easy to get hold of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley-Wood Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) Please explain to me how you'd do up an allen key bolt where the head is INSIDE the chainstay?instead of the bolt right at end could we have one like near the dropout so when you screw, it turns the tpa?? not sure how to do it thoughignore that lol just looked at cad drawing again lol Edited January 16, 2009 by Ashley-Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Exactly. I was hoping you'd soon understand... I think the allen key head inside the wheel pushing bit (what's it called?) and the thumbwheel is probably the best idea. As long as all the threads are strong enough (helicoiled?) then I can't see it causing that many problems really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Exactly. I was hoping you'd soon understand... I think the allen key head inside the wheel pushing bit (what's it called?) and the thumbwheel is probably the best idea. As long as all the threads are strong enough (helicoiled?) then I can't see it causing that many problems really! or just steel tpa bit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 if i was in the line of riders to get this frame i would be worried about people building it in a rush and crossing/stripping threads, there is a strong possibility imobut so far the ideas and inclusions in the design look totally sick. looks like it'll turn out nice again....and then they can put their name on it like george forman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben b Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Im on the short list for mod .ben x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dang! Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Alrighty- then.The M5 bolt that is the threaded component of the adjuster is in fact a grub screw, if and when it gets mangled, is can be taken apart. The TPA could be out of Steel, but I just didn't think it necessary. If it fails it can always be replaced with a M5 nut. The grub screw has upset threads on the very end so it stays stationary within the axle pusher. It really doesn't take much force to tighten a chain, it's just a challenge to keep it there. Snail cams can get dented and loose their position or get sloppy. This has a lot more surface area, and requires the thumb wheel to turn on an axis perpendicular to the axle to loosen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley-Wood Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 only thing im thinking of which could be bad is when you miss a side hop or back wheel you slide down onto it which will just keep mashing it over time it may even bend it? im not sure, still is a great idea and will work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 only thing im thinking of which could be bad is when you miss a side hop or back wheel you slide down onto it which will just keep mashing it over time it may even bend it? im not sure, still is a great idea and will work fine.You wouldn't hit it al all!The bolt runs through the dropout, and into the chainstay. So it's protected! The only thing you could hit is the adjuster, but even that'd be hard to do as it doesn't stick out so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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