kaybs41282 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Hi everyone, is there a quick and easy way to set up HS33's? By set up I mean set the pads up to the rim. I have spent the best part of 3 hours fiddling and not getting them perfect - they are either miles away or too close. I've watched the guide on Tarty but when I push them against the rim and pull the lever a bit they just don't move. Any tips gratefully received but I suppose it is all good practice....but I'm not the most patient of people ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Do the bolts up just enough to hold the cylinders in place while still allowing you to twist/move them with a little effort. Get them very roughly aligned (straight on the rim and parallel with the rim in both orientations) then set the lever pull: Make sure your TPA is wound off and move the cylinders in until you get the desired amount of reach on the lever when the pads contact the rim. If the cylinders are too close, lever pressure should push them out, though you may need to play a little to get them even. Once you have that set you just need to tweak the alignment to make sure the pads hit the rim square and are parallel and aligned. Tighten the bolts up and you're good to go. It is much easier with mounts which don't sue the cylinder washers though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Do the bolts up just enough to hold the cylinders in place while still allowing you to twist/move them with a little effort. Get them very roughly aligned (straight on the rim and parallel with the rim in both orientations) then set the lever pull: Make sure your TPA is wound off and move the cylinders in until you get the desired amount of reach on the lever when the pads contact the rim. If the cylinders are too close, lever pressure should push them out, though you may need to play a little to get them even. Once you have that set you just need to tweak the alignment to make sure the pads hit the rim square and are parallel and aligned. Tighten the bolts up and you're good to go. It is much easier with mounts which don't sue the cylinder washers though... Thanks for this, it is kind of what I have been doing and all of the fiddling is getting the correct distance from the rim...maybe I'm being too heavy handed...or just losing my patience which doesn't help. I shall continue to plod along and keep trying. I have found a bit of a solution, stick a metal ruler in between the pad and the rim, push the pads right up to the ruler, tighten all bolts and remove the ruler which seems to work a bit better. It seems to be harder to set up the rear brake with the booster though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Do the bolts up just enough to hold the cylinders in place while still allowing you to twist/move them with a little effort. Get them very roughly aligned (straight on the rim and parallel with the rim in both orientations) then set the lever pull: Make sure your TPA is wound off and move the cylinders in until you get the desired amount of reach on the lever when the pads contact the rim. If the cylinders are too close, lever pressure should push them out, though you may need to play a little to get them even. Once you have that set you just need to tweak the alignment to make sure the pads hit the rim square and are parallel and aligned. Tighten the bolts up and you're good to go. It is much easier with mounts which don't sue the cylinder washers though... As above! In video form: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_hydraulic_rim_brake_setup/m3.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 As above! In video form: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_hydraulic_rim_brake_setup/m3.html Thanks Adam, yeah I watched your guide ages ago, you made it look easy so needless to say I felt a bit of a failure 3 hours later after lots off huffing and puffing and rude words! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Argh, these brakes are doing my head in! I get them perfect but as soon as I nip the top bolt up they just go completely to cock again and dn't hit the pad evenly and the distance away from the rim gets messed up...there must be an easier way! Practice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 What clamps you using?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 What clamps you using?? Just the standard Magura clamps I think... would the fact that the booster is on there make any difference? Should I set them up without it on first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Do them up while you've got the pad pressed against the rim, that's what I do and as far as I know (or care, to be honest) they are setup perfectly every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Do them up while you've got the pad pressed against the rim, that's what I do and as far as I know (or care, to be honest) they are setup perfectly every time. Then what do you do when you have tightened the bolts? Would this mean that the pads were right on your rim and you got serious amounts of rub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 No no no. Nip the bolts up enough to hold the cylinders then set the pads up square on the rim. Unwind the TPA before you do that, obviously. Then pull the lever gently until the cylinders on both sides have moved a couple of millimetres back. Keep the lever pulled. Do up the bolts. Let go of the lever. Voila, pads are square and a couple of mil from the rim. It's honestly not rocket science Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 If you have an old washer it may be creased, meaning tightening the bolts will move the slaves to whatever shape the grooves are. Either buy new washers or wrap them in tape if your cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 No no no. Nip the bolts up enough to hold the cylinders then set the pads up square on the rim. Unwind the TPA before you do that, obviously. Then pull the lever gently until the cylinders on both sides have moved a couple of millimetres back. Keep the lever pulled. Do up the bolts. Let go of the lever. Voila, pads are square and a couple of mil from the rim. It's honestly not rocket science Haha I know and that is what makes it so frustrating that I can't get it right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 The retarded option is to just set them up touching the rim and ride around for a bit to wear them down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 The retarded option is to just set them up touching the rim and ride around for a bit to wear them down Ive invested in some new pads so when they arrive I am going to take them apart and inspect everything before putting them together and setting them up...might try and fashion some sort of stand for the bike to make things easier. Just need to stop being so pathetic...no matter how hard I try I am no good at anything remotely technical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingerz Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 This is how i set up my hs33: Get an old credit card or any bit of card or plastic, whack it the gap between the rim and pads and push the cylinder so it holds the credit card in place. Then tighten the bolts whilst still pushing on the cylider then wiggle out the card and this should mean your pads are set up square to the rim. I've only done it a few times but it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Yeah I've done similar with a metal ruler... Good tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 first of all, make sure your TPA is wound all the way out. loosen all the mounting bolts so they are just nipped slightly, then put a penny between your pads and the rim. squeeze the lever lightly until you see the piston bodys move very slightly, then get a helper to fasten a cable tie around the lever to your bars. this leaves you with two hands to get it all done up right. tighten the bolts opposite each other, do it half a turn at a time. this way if you need to alter something, you aren`t backing everything right off again. once all the bolts are tight, undo the cable tie and the pistons should retract just the right amount, leaving you rub free brakes. this method worked the best for me, and i`ve been using maguras in one form or another for years. never failed me yet. have fun, dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaybs41282 Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Cheers dan I'll give it a whirl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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