V brake adapters

[Canardweb]

3 hours ago, AdamR28 said:

Not something I'm keen to get involved with at the moment, maybe that will change in future.

If you have a photo of some Heatsink ones, someone familiar with this sort of stuff would be able to copy them easily 👍

Fair enough, I don't know anyone who is familiar with that sort of stuff unfortunately. 

[Jere_h]

Here's some DIY:

I actually drilled and tapped the lower hs33 mounts of my Echo mk5 and later the mk6+ frames (and forks) to accept M8 stainless V-brake studs (ordered from brake-stuff.de) and that was the best idea ever. After the initial tests I was completely sold to V-brakes, just better and easier than hs33 in so many ways. Echos are nice and easy frames for that modification, especially the mk6+ due to its beefier construction. The studs were a bit too tall for the mounts so I ended up making an "adapter" that acts as a spring preload plate but also (in theory) taking some stress away from the rear mount.

Last summer I switched to a Crewkerz Jealousy frame and things got a lot more difficult. The frame is a real pain in the ass to setup V-brakes. The CNC machined construction of the lower mount seemed a bit too thin for a M8 stud (the CNC piece is most likely hollow so I couldn't just take a drill and hope that there is going to be enough material). Also the placement of the mounts didn't quite match the rim for V-brake use as they were placed way too high on the seatstays.

So I had no choice but to make my own adapters (Monty, Neon etc. I didn't even consider because they are just too flimsy and I highly value my spine). Actually the hardest part of the whole project for me was to find a consumer friendly workshop that is willing to sell me a small chunk of 7075-T6 aluminum for a reasonable price. I didn't want to make any compromises with reliability so these adapters are probably tougher than the frame itself.

Now working with 7075 is definitely not too easy, so it took a fair bit of dedication to make this happen with shitty tools and lack of proper workspace. At least we got a column drill, would have been a nightmare without one. At that point winter was coming soon, so I ended up just roughly shaping the blocks to somewhat tolerable looking just to get back to riding as soon as possible. I had plans to actually finish them to look pretty and "professional", but knowing myself it will probably never happen. Works well, looks ok, weights a ton, but at least I got a V-brake on my Crewkerz! At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

For the V-brakes I've been successfully using plain cheap Deores for 3 years now with TNN pads and backings. They're pretty good although there is some slight play between the stud, but it's barely noticeable when riding and absolutely nothing compared to that of Maguras. Avids or Lykketrials would be nice but impossible to find.

This setup has been a proper set and forget, just works fine and feels consistent everytime.

[Jere_h]

If going DIY, it's good to remember that the most critical part is going to be around the rear mount screw, which needs way more material than it looks. The forces are trying to rotate the boss and bend the adapter. Monty and many others failed it there, making it very thin and fragile right in the most critical point. It will always fail at the weakest link of the chain, so it doesn't help if you put tons of material around the V-brake boss and completely weight weeny the spot where it joins the frame. It's the overall volume and quality of the material together with the bolts tightened up that matters. So around the M8 or M10 V-brake boss it doesn't need to be that thick actually, but the rear mount screw is just M5 so it needs a lot more material around there to be equally as strong. The front screw is further away so there will be significant leverage that takes stress away, so we don't need that much material there. Also it's good to avoid any sharp corners as always, round shapes are stronger. My adapters are definitely very overbuilt (considering the quality of the material), but that's mostly because they are work in progress.

Edited September 12, 2023 by Jere_h

[La Bourde]

I guess the boss tries to twist the adapter too: considering the picture on the right, the brake pads push against the rim and an opposite force applies on the V-brake boss, but with an offset to the baseplate. Thus, the top of the boss is pushed to the outside, while the baseplate is fixed and the low part of the boss cannot moves to the outside: this creates a twist, that occurs each time the brake lever is pulled.

 

 

[Jere_h]

Yeah and that too. Using a booster would help but that's again another DIY issue for many. I already bought some thick carbon for that purpose but somehow it still hasn't transformed to a booster by itself.

[Canardweb]

On 9/11/2023 at 9:48 PM, Jere_h said:

Here's some DIY:

I actually drilled and tapped the lower hs33 mounts of my Echo mk5 and later the mk6+ frames (and forks) to accept M8 stainless V-brake studs (ordered from brake-stuff.de) and that was the best idea ever. After the initial tests I was completely sold to V-brakes, just better and easier than hs33 in so many ways. Echos are nice and easy frames for that modification, especially the mk6+ due to its beefier construction. The studs were a bit too tall for the mounts so I ended up making an "adapter" that acts as a spring preload plate but also (in theory) taking some stress away from the rear mount.

Last summer I switched to a Crewkerz Jealousy frame and things got a lot more difficult. The frame is a real pain in the ass to setup V-brakes. The CNC machined construction of the lower mount seemed a bit too thin for a M8 stud (the CNC piece is most likely hollow so I couldn't just take a drill and hope that there is going to be enough material). Also the placement of the mounts didn't quite match the rim for V-brake use as they were placed way too high on the seatstays.

So I had no choice but to make my own adapters (Monty, Neon etc. I didn't even consider because they are just too flimsy and I highly value my spine). Actually the hardest part of the whole project for me was to find a consumer friendly workshop that is willing to sell me a small chunk of 7075-T6 aluminum for a reasonable price. I didn't want to make any compromises with reliability so these adapters are probably tougher than the frame itself.

Now working with 7075 is definitely not too easy, so it took a fair bit of dedication to make this happen with shitty tools and lack of proper workspace. At least we got a column drill, would have been a nightmare without one. At that point winter was coming soon, so I ended up just roughly shaping the blocks to somewhat tolerable looking just to get back to riding as soon as possible. I had plans to actually finish them to look pretty and "professional", but knowing myself it will probably never happen. Works well, looks ok, weights a ton, but at least I got a V-brake on my Crewkerz! At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

For the V-brakes I've been successfully using plain cheap Deores for 3 years now with TNN pads and backings. They're pretty good although there is some slight play between the stud, but it's barely noticeable when riding and absolutely nothing compared to that of Maguras. Avids or Lykketrials would be nice but impossible to find.

This setup has been a proper set and forget, just works fine and feels consistent everytime.

That is amazing!

[Dan Jones]

On 9/11/2023 at 8:48 PM, Jere_h said:

At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

I love the look of this v brake setup on a Crewkerz.

Did you decide to keep using the HS33 on the fork for the moment?

If it's possible to make a V-brake work on the crewkerz fork - I think its something I would like to try in the future.

I also wonder if the v-brake will put more stress on the fork being in that position.

Edited December 6, 2023 by Dan Jones

[crankedcyclist]

On 9/11/2023 at 10:48 PM, Jere_h said:

Here's some DIY:

I actually drilled and tapped the lower hs33 mounts of my Echo mk5 and later the mk6+ frames (and forks) to accept M8 stainless V-brake studs (ordered from brake-stuff.de) and that was the best idea ever. After the initial tests I was completely sold to V-brakes, just better and easier than hs33 in so many ways. Echos are nice and easy frames for that modification, especially the mk6+ due to its beefier construction. The studs were a bit too tall for the mounts so I ended up making an "adapter" that acts as a spring preload plate but also (in theory) taking some stress away from the rear mount.

Last summer I switched to a Crewkerz Jealousy frame and things got a lot more difficult. The frame is a real pain in the ass to setup V-brakes. The CNC machined construction of the lower mount seemed a bit too thin for a M8 stud (the CNC piece is most likely hollow so I couldn't just take a drill and hope that there is going to be enough material). Also the placement of the mounts didn't quite match the rim for V-brake use as they were placed way too high on the seatstays.

So I had no choice but to make my own adapters (Monty, Neon etc. I didn't even consider because they are just too flimsy and I highly value my spine). Actually the hardest part of the whole project for me was to find a consumer friendly workshop that is willing to sell me a small chunk of 7075-T6 aluminum for a reasonable price. I didn't want to make any compromises with reliability so these adapters are probably tougher than the frame itself.

Now working with 7075 is definitely not too easy, so it took a fair bit of dedication to make this happen with shitty tools and lack of proper workspace. At least we got a column drill, would have been a nightmare without one. At that point winter was coming soon, so I ended up just roughly shaping the blocks to somewhat tolerable looking just to get back to riding as soon as possible. I had plans to actually finish them to look pretty and "professional", but knowing myself it will probably never happen. Works well, looks ok, weights a ton, but at least I got a V-brake on my Crewkerz! At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

For the V-brakes I've been successfully using plain cheap Deores for 3 years now with TNN pads and backings. They're pretty good although there is some slight play between the stud, but it's barely noticeable when riding and absolutely nothing compared to that of Maguras. Avids or Lykketrials would be nice but impossible to find.

This setup has been a proper set and forget, just works fine and feels consistent everytime.

do you think a 6061 version of your adaptor would be week?

[crankedcyclist]

On 9/11/2023 at 10:48 PM, Jere_h said:

Here's some DIY:

I actually drilled and tapped the lower hs33 mounts of my Echo mk5 and later the mk6+ frames (and forks) to accept M8 stainless V-brake studs (ordered from brake-stuff.de) and that was the best idea ever. After the initial tests I was completely sold to V-brakes, just better and easier than hs33 in so many ways. Echos are nice and easy frames for that modification, especially the mk6+ due to its beefier construction. The studs were a bit too tall for the mounts so I ended up making an "adapter" that acts as a spring preload plate but also (in theory) taking some stress away from the rear mount.

Last summer I switched to a Crewkerz Jealousy frame and things got a lot more difficult. The frame is a real pain in the ass to setup V-brakes. The CNC machined construction of the lower mount seemed a bit too thin for a M8 stud (the CNC piece is most likely hollow so I couldn't just take a drill and hope that there is going to be enough material). Also the placement of the mounts didn't quite match the rim for V-brake use as they were placed way too high on the seatstays.

So I had no choice but to make my own adapters (Monty, Neon etc. I didn't even consider because they are just too flimsy and I highly value my spine). Actually the hardest part of the whole project for me was to find a consumer friendly workshop that is willing to sell me a small chunk of 7075-T6 aluminum for a reasonable price. I didn't want to make any compromises with reliability so these adapters are probably tougher than the frame itself.

Now working with 7075 is definitely not too easy, so it took a fair bit of dedication to make this happen with shitty tools and lack of proper workspace. At least we got a column drill, would have been a nightmare without one. At that point winter was coming soon, so I ended up just roughly shaping the blocks to somewhat tolerable looking just to get back to riding as soon as possible. I had plans to actually finish them to look pretty and "professional", but knowing myself it will probably never happen. Works well, looks ok, weights a ton, but at least I got a V-brake on my Crewkerz! At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

For the V-brakes I've been successfully using plain cheap Deores for 3 years now with TNN pads and backings. They're pretty good although there is some slight play between the stud, but it's barely noticeable when riding and absolutely nothing compared to that of Maguras. Avids or Lykketrials would be nice but impossible to find.

This setup has been a proper set and forget, just works fine and feels consistent everytime.

do you think an 6061 version of your adapter would be week?

[irisharasm]

On 9/12/2023 at 2:48 AM, Jere_h said:

Here's some DIY:

I actually drilled and tapped the lower hs33 mounts of my Echo mk5 and later the mk6+ frames (and forks) to accept M8 stainless V-brake studs (ordered from brake-stuff.de) and that was the best idea ever. After the initial tests I was completely sold to V-brakes, just better and easier than hs33 in so many ways. Echos are nice and easy frames for that modification, especially the mk6+ due to its beefier construction. The studs were a bit too tall for the mounts so I ended up making an "adapter" that acts as a spring preload plate but also (in theory) taking some stress away from the rear mount.

Last summer I switched to a Crewkerz Jealousy frame and things got a lot more difficult. The frame is a real pain in the ass to setup V-brakes. The CNC machined construction of the lower mount seemed a bit too thin for a M8 stud (the CNC piece is most likely hollow so I couldn't just take a drill and hope that there is going to be enough material). Also the placement of the mounts didn't quite match the rim for V-brake use as they were placed way too high on the seatstays.

So I had no choice but to make my own adapters (Monty, Neon etc. I didn't even consider because they are just too flimsy and I highly value my spine). Actually the hardest part of the whole project for me was to find a consumer friendly workshop that is willing to sell me a small chunk of 7075-T6 aluminum for a reasonable price. I didn't want to make any compromises with reliability so these adapters are probably tougher than the frame itself.

Now working with 7075 is definitely not too easy, so it took a fair bit of dedication to make this happen with shitty tools and lack of proper workspace. At least we got a column drill, would have been a nightmare without one. At that point winter was coming soon, so I ended up just roughly shaping the blocks to somewhat tolerable looking just to get back to riding as soon as possible. I had plans to actually finish them to look pretty and "professional", but knowing myself it will probably never happen. Works well, looks ok, weights a ton, but at least I got a V-brake on my Crewkerz! At the front I'm still using the old hs33, just because I'm lazy to "finish" another pair of adapters, but also because the mount design there is going to be a bit more challenging.

For the V-brakes I've been successfully using plain cheap Deores for 3 years now with TNN pads and backings. They're pretty good although there is some slight play between the stud, but it's barely noticeable when riding and absolutely nothing compared to that of Maguras. Avids or Lykketrials would be nice but impossible to find.

This setup has been a proper set and forget, just works fine and feels consistent everytime. drift boss

that's awesome!

[Ali C]

I’ve recently been doing some more diy adaptors, these were made with a drill, hacksaw and file and I like the idea of the adaptor extending down the inside of the mounts…this way it’s slightly braced against the frame taking a tiny bit of pressure off the bolts (in theory at least) but it also adds a lot of strength and stiffness in a high stress area (I hope).

 

gonna speak with someone about bringing these to market

IMG_8623.dng IMG_8624.dng

[Dan Jones]

1 hour ago, Ali C said:

gonna speak with someone about bringing these to market

Will they fit the Crewkerz HS33 fork? 😊

The image wasn't working above but I have seen these on your Instagram story. Look good.

[Canardweb]

On 1/3/2024 at 9:23 AM, Ali C said:

I’ve recently been doing some more diy adaptors, these were made with a drill, hacksaw and file and I like the idea of the adaptor extending down the inside of the mounts…this way it’s slightly braced against the frame taking a tiny bit of pressure off the bolts (in theory at least) but it also adds a lot of strength and stiffness in a high stress area (I hope).

 

gonna speak with someone about bringing these to market

IMG_8673.mov

IMG_8623.dng 24.85 MB · 4 downloads IMG_8624.dng 23.37 MB · 1 download

These are super awesome. I need to source some raw material to try and make my own. HS33 suck big times whenever you're not riding on a clean rim, fresh grind and dry wether with no dust...

 

Also please make a video about V-brakes!

Edited January 5 by Canardweb

[La Bourde]

I sourced some 7075 aluminum at Metall Nord:

https://www.ebay.de/str/metallnord/Plattenstarke-20mm/_i.html?store_cat=3698788016

I expected it would be a hassle to find some, but it was quite easy. Maybe I was lucky though.

 

 

[Canardweb]

 

On 1/9/2024 at 2:44 PM, La Bourde said:

I sourced some 7075 aluminum at Metall Nord:

https://www.ebay.de/str/metallnord/Plattenstarke-20mm/_i.html?store_cat=3698788016

I expected it would be a hassle to find some, but it was quite easy. Maybe I was lucky though.

 

 

Unfortunately I can't see any item from him.

[La Bourde]

6 hours ago, Canardweb said:

 

Unfortunately I can't see any item from him.

😐 never understood how eBay works...

[Canardweb]

On 1/11/2024 at 1:53 PM, La Bourde said:

😐 never understood how eBay works...

Could see some using my PC. Now to guess what dimension I should take...

Edited January 13 by Canardweb

[Heatsink]

Hi all!

This topic of V adapters takes me down memory lane 🙂 After reading your posts and seeing the impressive adapters you've all made I was intrigued to revisit a V Adapter design for 2024 with the aim that it be as simple as possible to make by a DIYer using tools in their shed. This was particularly interesting for me at this time because I've just improved my shed set-up with a new Pillar drill and an Angle grinder mounted on a stand like a chop saw for cutting cleanly and perpendicularly through small metal items.

To help any fans of V brakes I've taken the key dimensions from the Heatsink V Adapter CAD and dropped them onto the drawing below.

For the least effort to achieve a usable adapter you could buy some 20x10mm section aluminium from Ebay and then drill the 4 holes in the right places. The lower bolt hole has to be counterbored for the M5 Socket bolts, and you'll need a M10x1.25mm tap to thread the V boss hole. For sufficient strength the bolts you use to attach to the 4 bolt mounts should be carefully chosen so you have at least 1.5 x the bolt diameter e.g. 7.5mm of thread being used. 

If anyone was interested in some V adapters I was considering making some of these simple adapters in my shed to the design of the wooden prototype.

[Canardweb]

9 hours ago, Heatsink said:

Hi all!

This topic of V adapters takes me down memory lane 🙂 After reading your posts and seeing the impressive adapters you've all made I was intrigued to revisit a V Adapter design for 2024 with the aim that it be as simple as possible to make by a DIYer using tools in their shed. This was particularly interesting for me at this time because I've just improved my shed set-up with a new Pillar drill and an Angle grinder mounted on a stand like a chop saw for cutting cleanly and perpendicularly through small metal items.

To help any fans of V brakes I've taken the key dimensions from the Heatsink V Adapter CAD and dropped them onto the drawing below.

For the least effort to achieve a usable adapter you could buy some 20x10mm section aluminium from Ebay and then drill the 4 holes in the right places. The lower bolt hole has to be counterbored for the M5 Socket bolts, and you'll need a M10x1.25mm tap to thread the V boss hole. For sufficient strength the bolts you use to attach to the 4 bolt mounts should be carefully chosen so you have at least 1.5 x the bolt diameter e.g. 7.5mm of thread being used. 

If anyone was interested in some V adapters I was considering making some of these simple adapters in my shed to the design of the wooden prototype.

Instant MP!

[La Bourde]

20 hours ago, Heatsink said:

Hi all!

This topic of V adapters takes me down memory lane 🙂 After reading your posts and seeing the impressive adapters you've all made I was intrigued to revisit a V Adapter design for 2024 with the aim that it be as simple as possible to make by a DIYer using tools in their shed. This was particularly interesting for me at this time because I've just improved my shed set-up with a new Pillar drill and an Angle grinder mounted on a stand like a chop saw for cutting cleanly and perpendicularly through small metal items.

To help any fans of V brakes I've taken the key dimensions from the Heatsink V Adapter CAD and dropped them onto the drawing below.

For the least effort to achieve a usable adapter you could buy some 20x10mm section aluminium from Ebay and then drill the 4 holes in the right places. The lower bolt hole has to be counterbored for the M5 Socket bolts, and you'll need a M10x1.25mm tap to thread the V boss hole. For sufficient strength the bolts you use to attach to the 4 bolt mounts should be carefully chosen so you have at least 1.5 x the bolt diameter e.g. 7.5mm of thread being used. 

If anyone was interested in some V adapters I was considering making some of these simple adapters in my shed to the design of the wooden prototype.

Thank you so much!

My father gave me his broken mini lathe and as soon as I have more time, I will try to repair it (new power supply and motor- the V-brake adapters will be quite expensive )

I took already some measurements and they were really close to yours.

NB: I noticed they are several types of V-brakes bosses so for the DIYers,  be careful !

[Canardweb]

3 hours ago, La Bourde said:

Thank you so much!

My father gave me his broken mini lathe and as soon as I have more time, I will try to repair it (new power supply and motor- the V-brake adapters will be quite expensive )

I took already some measurements and they were really close to yours.

NB: I noticed they are several types of V-brakes bosses so for the DIYers,  be careful !

Keep us updated! The main difficulty is the special profile of the brake mounts on the Crewkerz Jealousy 

[Jere_h]

On 11/26/2023 at 1:27 AM, Dan Jones said:

Did you decide to keep using the HS33 on the fork for the moment?

If it's possible to make a V-brake work on the crewkerz fork - I think its something I would like to try in the future.

I also wonder if the v-brake will put more stress on the fork being in that position.

No I absolutely hated the HS33 and had to finally do something to get permanently rid of it. Kind of forgot to post here but here we go:

I made another pair for the front last summer and now the bike is complete. The result is super stiff and works well. This time put a lot more effort to shape the blocks with a better set of new files. Still very unfinished in my opinion but honestly I don't care that much, they're kind of hiding there behind the brakes anyway. These are now much lighter/smaller too and close to what I originally planned with this material.

The WAW fork is definitely a difficult one, there is a lump of carbon in a place where I couldn't make the adapter any slimmer, close to where the brake boss is attached (would have to shorten the thread even more which is not a good idea). I had to use my old HS33 clamps as an adapter for the adapters, just filed them down a bit to keep the thing as low profile as possible (I could still get a few mm off of them but was too eager to get riding at the moment). I was a bit worried but the result is not bad at all, the brakes are not protruding too much from the forks. With some careful CAD design, CNC machining and a pair of deeper sitting V-brake arms than Shimano, it would be possible to make the whole thing a lot sleeker though. But this is enough for me.

I made the pads using cheap Shimano v-brake backings shortened. These are a bit spongy though, could work better with a set of TNN v-brake pads for sure. But it's good enough and so far I like it. Time to throw the Maguras out of window.

Edited February 23 by Jere_h

[Canardweb]

Wow, these are amazing!

[Heatsink]

A wet Sunday in England today, so I've been busy in the shed machining up V Adapters.

I've updated the Heatsink website with detailed info on these and the opportunity to express your interest in a pair 🙂

http://www.heatsinkbikes.com

[Heatsink]

A bit of concentration this past week and I've finally completed the V Adapters! More info in the News section 🙂