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Bmx Questions


BONGO

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I don't purely 'cos I don't really ride skateparks at all, ever. I've seen it done though. Takes balls :P

A few people can do it. I would love to be able to do it myself then no more brakes ever again.

I have a tricky predicament...

I have this hub and I just bought an odyssey 13t freewheel. I didnt think until now that it probebly wont fit. So will it fit or have I just thrown my money down a drain?

Oh yeah, the hub has a flip flop thread on the left of it and until I get my 16t freeewheel off I dont know what thread on the right. Im guessing standard.

16t and 13t are both different threads. The side that hasn't got the 16t freewheel on will take the 13t freewheel. Provided you did buy the flip flop version and not the left and right hand version.

So you haven't wasted your money. If you still get some trouble then post up a pic of the threaded sides, (side on pic) then i will be able to tell you what you have got.

Some interesting news (perhaps)

Not being a fan of Primo powerbite cranks because of the insert, Primo have made me and friends turn our heads back towards these cranks. Now with a hexagonal shape insert, the insert shouldn't spin like before. There in the issue of ride. I don't acutally own just saw the pic.

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I keep hearing cracking/banging sounds coming from my cassette hub on my new Fit. I know that they do have to bed in properly, as i had to with my eno before it stopped slipping. But the cracking/banging sound seems to be getting more and more frequent (a lot more frequent than my eno was when it was new), and it usually seems to happen when it's under pressure, like doing brakeless stalls, or landing from a 180 etc.

So is this just a normal thing, and it will eventually stop doing it?

Edited by huck_it
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Just strip it down and check it out. BMX hubs are really easy to take apart - generally, you just take the wheel out, take off the drive-side wheelnut, undo the lockring and then just push the driver off (or hammer it off, depending on tightness). That's it! They're that simple.

Just take it apart and see who's doing what wrong.

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No it's a sun street lite rim.

But i think i have sorted it now. I just took the driver out of the cassette and found it was all gunked up with a really thick white grease :- , which was stopping the pawls from moving and returning freely, so it kept slipping.

So i gave it a good clean and it hasn't slipped yet *touch wood*

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who wants to suggest my next set of grips ?

s&m dual ply / team are lovely but a little short - if i cant find anything else I'll just get more

everyone keeps saying longnecks but it's winter and mushroom pattern when wet is icky.

Ideally they'll have almost no pattern at all, be thin and slightly sticky. In fact, they'll be exactly the same as the S&M ones but about an inch longer.

Is there such a thing as a 7 inch long grip ?

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I seem to remember mark using some grips which are pretty similar to what you are wanting. I can remember them being referred to as "dildo grips", but it was a fair while ago :ermm: .

But if your wanting some really long ones then the "using one after the other on each side of the bar", seems like a pretty sound idea.

If not then how about these?

Odyssesy Le Van

Primo stricker(bit small)

Edit: Even though they aren't really what you describe as wanting, but the Fly Ruben Alcantara grips are the shizzle. I have had them a fair while now and no rips or flakes, and still just as soft and grippy.

Edited by huck_it
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who wants to suggest my next set of grips ?

s&m dual ply / team are lovely but a little short - if i cant find anything else I'll just get more

everyone keeps saying longnecks but it's winter and mushroom pattern when wet is icky.

Ideally they'll have almost no pattern at all, be thin and slightly sticky. In fact, they'll be exactly the same as the S&M ones but about an inch longer.

Is there such a thing as a 7 inch long grip ?

I have some ODI longnecks you can purchase :P

Edited by Si-man
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I seem to remember mark using some grips which are pretty similar to what you are wanting. I can remember them being referred to as "dildo grips", but it was a fair while ago :ermm: .

But if your wanting some really long ones then the "using one after the other on each side of the bar", seems like a pretty sound idea.

If not then how about these?

Odyssesy Le Van

Primo stricker(bit small)

Edit: Even though they aren't really what you describe as wanting, but the Fly Ruben Alcantara grips are the shizzle. I have had them a fair while now and no rips or flakes, and still just as soft and grippy.

I ran the Strickers and I'm running the Levans, and they're amazing. Only grips I'll use ;) You can stretch them out so they're super long and super thin too, should you wish. Levans seem to last longer...

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ok im after a bmx for a bit of fun for a while, dont wana spend all that much and i will only be learning so wont need to be that great. id prefer brand new so can people please sugest a nice bmx. i want a long toptube though. 20.5/21 inch. got bout £200. looked at the alone initiate on winstanlys so far

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You proberly know 200 isn't going to get you very far.

Some things you want to look for when purchasing a bike at a low price.

14mm axles

Sealed hubs

Sealed BB

Better than standard rims. Black box, bfr, rhyno's etc. Rather than the mx22 rims and mus 16.

Full chromo frame. Not just one tube being chromo and the others hi-ten. It WILL snap.

Chromo forks. 1 piece steerer if possible.

No micro gearing. Cheap cassettes aren't wise.

Tyres that suit your riding.

Cheap gyro's suck. But i guess you will be getting a single cable anyway.

Hope that helps. Found this one.

HERE

This would be a great example of what bike to avoid.

Edited by eskimo
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You proberly know 200 isn't going to get you very far.

Some things you want to look for when purchasing a bike at a low price.

14mm axles

Sealed hubs

Sealed BB

Better than standard rims. Black box, bfr, rhyno's etc. Rather than the mx22 rims and mus 16.

Full chromo frame. Not just one tube being chromo and the others hi-ten. It WILL snap.

Chromo forks. 1 piece steerer if possible.

No micro gearing. Cheap cassettes aren't wise.

Tyres that suit your riding.

Cheap gyro's suck. But i guess you will be getting a single cable anyway.

Hope that helps. Found this one.

HERE

This would be a great example of what bike to avoid.

that dk bike is great. i like the brown it comes in too. hmm seems top of my list and 200 is orite price wise. thanks for that advice too, and no i wont be running a giro, they make brakes feel horrid. more advice and suggestions welcome

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I have a slight problem with the beast.

The bottom bracket moves slightly side to side, and whenever a land even a small hop it makes a lurvley clunk sound. Anyone got any idea what it could be. I haven't got a clue when it comes to bmx's.

It has 3 pc cranks, should that make any difference.

Only had it less than a month been out maybe 4 times and hasn't been ragged. I'm all out of answers.

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If your cranks have pinch bolts, loosen them, then tighten the end bolt of the crank (the large, generally 8mm allen key needing one). If you don't have pinchbolts, just take the bolt out, clean out the threads, put some locktite on, then tighten it up.

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It has 3 pc cranks, should that make any difference.

The question is, is the bottom bracket sealed. I can't seem to find what bike it is you bought. I 99% its the bottom bracket thats loose. It will have a nut to tighten the bottom bracket. A big one around the size of 25mm and another of the same size which is a locking nut.

So take the crank off. Most likely right hand side. Then loosen the locking nut (the outer one). Tighten the inner nut (not to much so the cranks spin). Then tighten the locking (outer nut) to lock. Put crank back on and enjoy smoothness.

Bargain, will have to try that later.

Another noobish question, does the b/b (No idea if it's american/euro) unsrew the same way as a normal one. Haven't given it a good look yet.

Bottom brackets don't unscrew unless it's euro. Then yes euro they do unscrew the same way.

Quick desciption for you.

USA BB- big bearings in cups. tap into frame with mallet.

MID BB- push in big usa bearings without the cups.

EURO BB- screw in, smaller bearings.

SPANISH BB- push in euro bearings.

If you are having to unsrew your bearings then you have euro bb. So it will be sealed. So what i have explained at the top was useless. So yeah like OBM said it will be your cranks.

Are 18" bmx's common?

Yes if you are a little nipper with short legs. :P

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The question is, is the bottom bracket sealed. I can't seem to find what bike it is you bought. I 99% its the bottom bracket thats loose. It will have a nut to tighten the bottom bracket. A big one around the size of 25mm and another of the same size which is a locking nut.

Yeh forgot to say it's a Stolen Pinch. Which i found out is a USA type.

Bottom Bracket: USA BB w/19mm Forged Axle Apparently.

Cheers for all the help though guys.

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