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If Your Tpa Is Raped, Come In.

Mark W

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(EDIT: Pics are wrong! [No shit, Sherlock])


"How to replace my McShite TPA", by Mark Westlake.

(Pics courtesy of everyone's favourite Stud Muffin, Adam Read)


To get your lever blade like that, you'll need to undo the bolt next to the number 2. This should means your lever comes off...

You'll be needing to sort out the shagged TPA bit. Whip off the spangly red bit. 'fraid to say that's the last you'll be needing of that cheeky chappy, so say your final goodbyes and all that.

Having done that, poke out "2" with a 5mm allen key. This should mean that 3 and 4 fall off.

Having removed them, you'll be needing to sort out the shagged TPA bit. Whip off the spangly red bit. 'fraid to say that's the last you'll be needing of that cheeky chappy, so say your final goodbyes and all that.

Select the following from the huge mess you've got yourself:


1 is about as useful as a Jeffrey Archer novel. That's the sheared bit of TPA bolt. It should come out without a fight, but if it chooses the "hard way", have a go at it with the ol' mole grips and whip it out.

You'll need to replace it with an M5 bolt. This is the same size bolt as the one, for example, you use in 4-bolt Magura clamps or in your headset (which is the one I'm using, selected from my old T-Bird...).

Having put that in instead of the TPA bolt, rebuild the lever and have a super fun happy time riding with a nice, nearly indestructible TPA.



PS. If it all goes a bit FUBAR at some point, you should be able to work out how to carry on - I did mine a while back so it's not too clear in my mind...

PPS. The ONLY THING that is different now is the fact you have an M5 bolt instead of the knackered TPA bolt. There should be NOTHING left outside the lever, unless you've ballsed up somewhere :-

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That's almost how I do it.

I replace the broken bit(s) with an allen head M5 bolt... but I cunningly have bought a file the right width so I can file a groove into the head of the bolt. (The groove is the same width as the linkage plate that makes contact with the plunger pin)

Once you done this it'll look something like the broken bit except.. it's not made of cheese and it's not broken. Stick it all back together and you can say hello to your old friend the red dial.


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I also put an M5 Nyloc Nut (one with a little o ring on to stop the nut un-doing) on the end of the bolt, this stops you from removing the bolt fully,and means when you bleed the brake the tpa always comes back to the same place so its bled consistently.

hope this makes sense


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Nice plastic MBUK grips there :D

Anyway, have you found that the bolt becomes quite easy to turn? You can adjust mine super easily which is a bit odd...it's just nicely loose.

So yeah, you can just use it without the TPA top bit on after you've sorted out the bodge :-


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  • 2 weeks later...
My custom blade.  I did as Mark said but drilled a hole through the plastic tpa red bit, so that if your fingers are slippy then its still easy to adjust, as opposed to having to try and hold the bronzt square bit...

which I have to do...

My TPA is gone. The little bronze thingy is still there though..

Can I bodge it without getting a new red twiddly bit? It's hard to adjust it as it's now :D

Oh yeah, I'm back on the normal lever. The RB leaks Now. Bollox. :-

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  • 5 months later...

I tryed it and I found an m5 bolt ddint work with my tpa bcoz it ddint fit I did find a botl size that did and thats a 10x32 un hope this helps u and how come the pics dont work :unsure:

ho hard bolt siz eto find though its not metric

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  • 8 months later...
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  • 9 months later...

my fking TPA broke on the first day i had it

i wound it all the way out and then when i used it it uttered a loud click and cross threaded. So now it doesn't turn. >(

Thankfully enough it works well enough for me to not be arsed to fix it


yeah, so to people wondering about the new design, DONT wind it all the way out


why didn't they do something clever and make it completely out of metal?

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i've took it out already

i'd need to molegrip both the bolt and the TPA wheel so that i could twist it back onto the right thread path

i cba atm though, its my front brake :) and it turns out there's so little room between the pads ad the rim that if i made it any harder i'd endo myself to death


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  • 3 weeks later...

Anyone ever had the brass bit the red TPA knob presses on to shear off? I replaced the bolt with the forked end on it ages ago but now when I screw the TPA knob anticlockwise the knob and part of the bushing unscrew from the lever completely (So to make a TPA adjustment I have to dismantle the lever). I've also had to replace the pushrod between the plate that turns on the lever pivot and the piston in the lever as that got mashed too.

The forked bolt snapping, the bushing shearing and the pushrod to the piston have failed in that order on both levers. It is impressive (From a consistent engineering point of view) that when part of one lever fails the same part in the other lever seems to break in exactly the same place within a couple of weeks. The set of brakes is 8 years old as far as I can remember - I've owned them from new, the front has been bled once and the back has yet to be bled, so overall I couldn't be much happier with their reliability, though some small changes to the parts within the lever would have the brakes running good as new with even less attention - It could cost them up to 50 grammes :)...

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