N.Wood

Gutted. I bet that left you in a bit of a sticky situation!

Cool I liked that Rich

I'm with Natwest too, have no idea what that little calculator they give you does, I can only assume its for working out how little interest they're going to pay me this month.

My favorite part of this vid was the fact he doesn't wear the gay shit trials riders usually wear. I liked it

I'll ignore the age-old thread and wrong location and answer anyway. 1. Moto trials brakes use a smaller diameter, thicker disk with a larger piston meaning braking power is stronger. The larger piston has to be closer to the rotor for it to work with the same amount of lever pull. 2. Spoke flex on 26" bikes is an issue, makes the back end feel less precise and more 'loose' 3. It puts a load of weight out the back of the bike which isn't ideal. 4. Larger wheel = more turning force and the less able the rotor is able to deal with it. so fine for 20", but the extra leverage of 26" wheels makes it a less effective brake

Have you tried squirting WD40 / GT85 / Penetrating lube into the lockring gap to loosen it up? Might be worth a try before you try to dissassemble. If you do take it apart, watch the bearings - They are loose and may fall under the fridge with the old sweetcorn.

Pretty sure the official answer is yes to everything. Only debateable one is the headset to frame interface; some like it dry, others prefer a bit of grease. I put copper anti sieze grease on freewheel and cog threads. EDIT: Sorry, I'm not a professional (though have worked in a bike shop?)

Good on you for making a bike to your liking, pretty specific geo you have there.

Kenda small blocks are dogshit for grip. My experience (riding alot of natural of different sorts, in the wet etc) from best to ok: Rear: Continental Der Kaiser / Rain King Maxxis Highroller 2.35 dual ply super tacky Try-all Stiky 2.5 Front: Try-All Stiky Maxxis larsen TT 2.35 super tacky single ply Maxxis Highroller 2.1 eXCeption series Try-all and Maxxis have the same compound. Maxxis wins on the rear as it rolls (side to side) less than the rounder, wider stiky. Maxxis and try-all up front are similar grip wise, try-all is lighter and bit more precise as its narrower.

Sick, be sure to keep us updated!

Just keep everything as it is and buy a different front hub? Sounds like you're causing yourself alot of superfluous grief for nothing to me.

Who the hell wants to watch a trials comp on tv anyway?

Take off from a rail and you'll have no choice.

And make sure a 'respected' member can vouch for them if you're suspicious. Check their feedback.

Cool cool, some is at Cligga Head

Where you likely to be staying Dave?

Still amazes me how people boast about the stuff they have destroyed.

Actual splined cranks: Take lock ring off, use a mallet and penetrating fluid. Threaded / screw-on cranks: Take a look on the Tartybikes website for video help.

Eh?!

Barrow Farm in Essex is the only place I can think of, but thats like 120ish miles at a guess.

I seem to remember Ali did one up his way on his Koxx Mixx (i think?) where you ride xc, dh, and some watered down trials on the same bike and it makes a total score.

Oh jesus its 1999 again. A harsh grind, no booster, a toed in pad (Rockman, TNN, whatever)and ever so slightly loose bolts will make a loud, but shit brake.

As long as you're not a complete munter and / or the size of a house I think the warn can be waived.

The best brake I ever remember having was a smooth D521 with original Plaz CRMs cleaned with muc-off. However, it was the best brake for about 20 minutes riding street until either a bit of dust landed on the rim or some light drizzle came. Then it was useless. Needless to say I have run a grind for the past 6 years.