La Bourde

Is the hub new? There is no engagement at all? That could be the ring,but it is not so common. Another possibility is that none of the pals engage: - Too much /too thick grease ? Is it cold where you are riding currently? - Some people had also broken springs, but all of them!?

The Specialized P frames are dirt jump frames. It seems that Spe decided to produce at least two dedicated frames. Will see whether they go to production. I did not appreciate this video much. The riding is dialed for sure and the skills required amazing. The edit is great too. But somehow it is too far from trials to me and it is neither BMX.

A friend of mine went from a 2017 Fourplay, to a Guilty and eventually ended on a 2021 Hex. Even if the Guilty was an amazing bike, superior to him to the Fourplay (not sure the Guilty fits everyone though), he largely prefers the Hex and his riding improved much with. He said the length of the top tube/reach makes a huge difference for him and he has less back pain than with both previous bikes.

Pure TGS, nice!

There is the unspoken rule of 1g = 1 USD (or €).😁 I heard from a pro rider he had troubles with turbolito by really cold weather (around 0°C, 32°F). If I recall correctly, he said they get less malleable and he got punctures.

Amazing edit, nice vibes. The location and shots are really nice. Combined with the smooth riding, it makes me want to ride. Thanks!

OK at least I noticed something about aluminum stiffness (it is actually less stiff than steel at the same dimension) and also fatigue, as one can say that aluminum shall not fatigue if the parts are dimensioned properly.

Oh... Can you point out what exactly? I don't like to share inaccurate information.

I agree with you. It wouldn't be the first hub having issue with its 12mm version (remember the hope pro II evo?) I think one major point in this video is about the stiffness of the rear end. Trials frames are hardtails, most of them being really stiff. This reduces how much the axle can bend, reducing fatigue a lot due to smaller load peaks. In the comments, you can also read an answer from Peak torque, that thinks that high antisquat value of certain full sus frame will increase the maximal load a lot. This sounds sensible to me. So I guess trials use is less of a concern. I think for trial riders making a regular maintenance and consider replacing the axle as soon as the hub creaks are the take outs of this video.

Found some valuable information about the I9 hubs: So I posted it here.

He really disserves it. A nice humble guy that manages to ride at the highest level and study at the same time. I don't know how he manages this.

Hi, he is not vice world champ without reason... The hooks...

I just put a Maxxis Holyroller 2,4" and a KHE 26"Mac 2 on a Crewkerz cleep, with an used standard trial freewheel (I think it is a 108.9) on Waw cranks. It rolls quite well, much better than with the trials tires. It seems to be more drag than with the Hope Pro IV of my street trial though. I have to try really long manuals to see if there is a difference (without touching the brake). But first, I have to adjust the brakepads correctly. 😁 I think a well built "standard" freewheel (using EDM and many teeth on the pawls, ball bearings) could work as good as a freewheel hub. A friend rode an i9 Hydra SS on his dirt bike. He wanted to switch with the Hope Pro IV of his fresh street/trials, but he eventually bought another I9 ... He said, he is so used to the instant engagement. It feels amazing though. From my own experience, I know that between 108 and 120 engagement points, I really feel the difference on a comp bike. I agree with you regarding the lower load with more engagement points, due to less acceleration. But the maximal load when the system is engaged stays the same and I guess this can also be a problem.

Yeah, they exist in the MTB world for a while now. There are also some with freewheel roller/sprag clutch (e.g. Onyx, True precision hubs, old Shimano Silent Clutch) ... people say it has an immediate engagement and it is absolutely quiet. But most of them are heavy/not so reliable saddly: http://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/d.winners-hub/index.html

Good questions! Regarding the load, I guess you are right in your extreme case. But over a session of riding I guess the wear due to the load will span over all the links. The freewheels have more drag and one can perceive it. But does it mean, we roll less? For a comp rider, does it mean he losses a lot of energy and could go higher with a freehub then? As described in the video, I guess the tire pressure might have even a bigger influence. For tailwhips, I can imagine it makes a huge difference.

Hi, recently two new hubs were released (for mods at least), both with integrated freewheel and a high number of engagement points: the comas rear disc freewheel the clean rear disc freewheel () Pictures from https://trial-world.com And Hope released its PRO V SS/Trials some months ago. Does a new generation of trials hub arrived on the market or is this just a reaction to the Industry Nine Hydra hub? What changed recently, that allows more engagement points in a hub? To be honest, I am really skeptical about the reliability of most of these hubs (even more on the Clean, it looks like a bad design to me - by placing the outer one piece steel ring now on the inside, all the engagement forces operate on several small aluminum parts. In addition, the spokes already pull out the aluminum shell, which can lead to a misalignment of the pawl axle). I know that Industry Nine uses a specific machining process called EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining), that allows to machine really hard materials with amazing tolerances. I doubt this is the case on the other hubs, as this machining process is quite slow and thus expensive. What are the real benefits of these freewheel hubs? One advantage I can think of is that the chain is no longer moving. This means less wear and less noise. Due to the ratio of the gear, with the same number of engagement points, you get a smaller angle at your pedals to engage (for mods, 18/12 -> ratio 1,5 and for stock 18/15, ratio 1,2) It seems also that the drag is reduced, weaker springs being used. But it the drag so relevant? This video compares a PRO IV to a PRO V and the reduced drag seems to have no relevant influence. According to my experience, this was not the case with trials freewheels at least. I bought a freewheel with 9 pawls and 108 engagement points to test of my old street trial bike. It has really strong spring and the bike was less rolling that with a freewheel with 72 engagement points. That is why I switched back to 72 engagement points. Other relevant points: past a certain number of engagement points, there is no significant advantage, cause the chain has to get tension first (even with a tensioner). Maybe this can be counteracted by the rider if he always has pressure under his feet. having two times more engagement points divides the angle of engagement by two. But the more engagement points you have, the smaller is the perceived improvement in engagement. E.g: when you switch from 72 to 120 engagement points, you loose 2° of engagement (from 360/72 = 5° to 360/120 = 3°) without doubling the number of engagement points, but from 120 to 690, you loose 2,48° (360/120 - 360/690 ~= 2,48°) by multiplying by 5,75 (120*5,75 0 = 690) the number of engagement points. With 240 engagement points, you will loose 1,5° compared to 120. the form of the pawls and ring can make a difference in feeling and how fast or firm the engagement feels. So what do you think? Do you ride with such hubs (or alternative like Halo Supadrive, Spank Hex Hub)? How do they feel? Are they reliable?

Quite a difficult question. I ride MTB and own several bikes with different wheel sizes and geometries. So I am used to switch bike regularly but to be honest, if I ride two weeks long the same bike I will ride slightly better day after day. Switching back to a bike with a geometry that differs a lot will make the first minutes of riding uncomfortable. But if I had switched back to a closer geometry, it may be even worse. Why? It is like my brain does not fully assimilate the difference and for example I won't manual well because I will pull too much or not enough low down my shoulders. I don't ride 24" cause it seems too close to me to 26" without being the same. I had a 24" street trials and it was too weird for me. I felt best on a Crewkerz guilty, but still I didn't enjoy it that much (I did not own a guilty - just rode the one of a friend, I had an inspired though) I had the same problem with BMX race. I rode for many years a 26" 4x/pumptrack/dirt and then had a 24" race BMX first, later a 20". I preferred the 20" race BMX even if it felt completely different. In your case, a modern comp bike is so different from a Hex, you have to adapt how you ride. You will change techniques. The first weeks will be hard, you will get the impression to regress. After this period, you will see how your riding improve on both bikes. If you buy a modern 20" comp bike, your riding will be mostly made of jumps and almost no rolling. It is in this regard even further away from a 26" street trials. But 20" is also more twitchy, nimble... According to my experience, the difference between a 20" comp and 26" comp is less than a 26" comp and a 26" street. I did not ride my comp 20" much till now, I hope I will ride it more this winter. But the few hours I spent on it, I felt directly well, almost like being don't the 26" comp, but more reactive. I notice quickly that I could no longer do rolling moves on it. I sadly never owned a 24" comp bike.

An old Truvativ one.

You are welcome. HS33 are OK for comp trial with a 4 holes mount. I don't know why they are so popular to be honest. I think most people associate trials with HS33 and that is it. There are several pro riders that do not like Magura rim brakes (e.g. Ali C, Kevin Liu). I am convinced that a comp frame with canti studs and better engineered v-brake and hose (carbon reinforced?) could be amazing good (Kevin Liu produced the Lykke bike with V-brake, but I guess V-brake could be even improved further). On my old street/trial (KST acidrop) I ran also a V-brake on canti studs. I bought a cheap no name V-brake booster, similar to this one (with eccentrics): And I was lucky enough cause it fits my frame. It is stiff enough. I don't know the spacing between the studs unfortunately, but the rear rim was quite wide (around 40mm).

Hi! my advice: go back to V-brakes ... Magura HS33 without dedicated 4 points mount is just a hassle. Most trial frames have spacing around 90-100mm to fit wide rims. It means, you need a specific booster. But the trials boosters on the market are specific to the 4 points mount. They may work with the mounting plates (evo2 kit) but this system inherently lacks stiffness. Due to the spacing between the studs, you may have to change the connecting hose too for a longer one! And to have a good feeling, you also need to bleed them with Trialtech fluid or coolant or antifreeze... Good V-brakes levers (e.g. Avid Speed Dial), good cables (e.g. Odyssey Linear Slick), good pads (e.g. Jistie), V-Brakes arms (e.g. Shimano Deore) and a cheap brake booster and you are done. What is your current v-brake setup? Why do you want HS33? What are your expectations? Current Magura levers are so weak, they will break within a couple of months. There are some aftermarket levers (Trialtech, Jitsie, Clean, Hashtagg, etc.) but they are so light and most of them are quite badly designed (maybe the Trialtech is OK) It is a pity to remove the wheel, you have to deflate the tire each time or you will have to readjust the brake... With a 4 holes mount, dedicated lever and the right fluid, Magura HS33 are a good solution on a comp bike. On a street/trial, I will really avoid them. And to be honest, if Crewkerz would sold a Jealousy with V-brake studs too, I would rather buy this than the one with magura 4 mounts.

Did you bleed them with maguras oil or something else?

Thanks guys. Reliability is really important to me. I think, I will stick to magura.

Hi, Recently I bought a new HS33 brake that came with Echo calipers. I never used this brake, I was just looking for some lever spare parts. I have to bleed a rear brake and I was thinking, that I can replace the Magura calipers with these Echo calipers. Are the Echo calipers better than the Magura original ones? Or do you recommend the Magura's ones? Thanks for you recommendations.

On the first picture, it looks like neither the mount nor a tube is cracked. It seems the weld did not penetrate correctly. Which would not speak for Marino's quality. But it is difficult to see correctly. Do you have a better picture?

That was what I supposed. Did the 20" change? Was there a 20" version of the first Cleep at all? I own a large Cleep2 and and a Freed. I recently spent some hours on shorter frames (medium Cleep2, short Jealousy) and I tried a medium Jealousy. I found the short Jealousy really nimble, a lot of fun but maybe too short, too unstable. It was quite easy to put my weight on the front too. Every time I go back on the large Cleep2, I struggle with pedal hop. It seems harder to me to put my weight enough on the front too.In addition, I had some pain in my arms and shoulder. That is why I came to the conclusion that a medium frame will better fit a 178cm guy and his lack of flexibility. I was looking for used Crewkerz medium frames, to give my assumption a go. Have a nice day too!