La Bourde

Did you try Shigura? The magura brake callipers are quite good as you noticed. I have one MT4 and I want to try to use an old Louise lever with it. Did someone already try this combination? Formula Cura have a good call. I never own some unfortunately but a friend of mine like them on a MTB. They seem to be difficult to bleed perfectly. Cannot recall if they knock much.

As far as I know, the geometry changed a little (e.g. shorter chain stays), the chain tensioner on the later models is better integrated and the frame now has a disc mount only. To be honest, even the first version is good enough for most of us... Not only for a beginner.

The trials bikes and parts are expensive, that is right. But as Canardweb wrote, even at those prices it is difficult to make a living from it. On the other side, even an entry model is now working really well, I was surprised how good the Crewkerz freed rode. It is maybe 1kg heavier than a Jealously, but it is half the price. Modern parts from serious brands (trialtech, inspired, waw, tms, bonz, etc) are now quite good and reliable too,not like 15 years ago. In addition, used bikes are not so expensive and even a ten years old bike is pretty close to a modern bike (compare an Atomz Quark II to a Jitsie for example). Here in Germany, the used market is full of street/trial bikes. And as mentioned many times by Ali C, Super rider or others, there is no need of a dedicated trial bikes for a beginner. Clubs have often old trial bikes, like 10-20 years old Monty. And that is good enough. Finally, compared to mountain bikes, 3k for a bike is not much. That is the price of a frameset sometimes. For the price of an entry level trials bike, you won't find a correct mountain bike. I think the inflation was a big issue the last years and that is why the modern bikes feel so expensive: our wages did not increase that much sadly.

So scary... Also the fact he suspects the fork would break. Hope he rides further with the high bottom bracket bike. Based on my own experience, it took me many months to feel well on it.

Quite light, well done! Do you still plan to ride a carbon fork?

I think you already know that Ozonys belongs to Crewkerz. There are no so many actors currently and I think it won't get any better sadly due to the lack of interest in trials currently.😔 So there is nothing wrong to support even the biggest brands, they also need support.

Dual air is sadly not so reliable. But it was easy to lower. Current solo air requires to cut the air shaft at the right length: you can bore further and to tap a thread. Some old solo air required only a specific spacer.

Basically the longer and the lower the stem, the easier and less effort one required to stay on the back wheel. But lifting the front wheel is more difficult then. Even with pedaling it can get tricky to stay precise. For a beginner, I think it makes more send to ride a shorter stem first. A longer lower stem put more load on the front wheel. It can be nicer on some moves, if you have already the mobility required. E.g. pivot on the front wheel, up to front, etc. can become easier. Regarding backhops: can you already pedal kick? You have to start to hop as soon as you loose balance.

Love those Echos. Simple straight clean lines, with nice color accents.

Hello Robbie, So happy someone as passionate as you bought the bike! It looks nice even if the yellow is a little too much for my taste. How does it feel? Is the bb too high? Wish you a lot of fun and post some bids of you riding it! Can't wait to see you in action.

Agree, rode an Orange Zero some years ago and it was really a fun bike. Even on the pumptrack. Only drawback : the oold standards and availability of good parts sometimes

Maxxis DHR, DHF are not rolling well, aren't they? Why not consider a high roller II with DH or double down casing? Not sure they are still available in 26".

The HS11 are really cheap... It is plastic...sorry, carbotecture 😁 and every part on the brake is built to cost as less as possible. Thus it is difficult to repair. For example the axle of the lever blade is just a pin maintain by interference fitting in the plastic body...

These Magura HS11 are quite sensible to dirt: the dirt accumulates around the piston due to the shape of the lever. If you clean them regularly, that shall be fine. But the HS33 lever from 2005 is much better (after removing the edge)

Try with 120mm first. Having a bar far ahead from the front axle helps a lot for some comp trial specific moves, but I don't know if your riding is based on them or not. As I started comp trials back a few years ago, I could only execute a few front moves. A longer stem and a bar tilt forward was more of disadvantage back then. But now I can do more front move and I see more the benefit of a bar far ahead.

You can forget to bunny up that bike. It is a comp bike and even if its possinle a pedal hop is much less effort. Even with a 120x20 and a riser bar, that won't be easy...But I recommend a bar with riser in combination with the shorter stem, so that you can adjust how far and high your hands are.

I personally don't like the Kenda K Rad at all. I would rather ride a Maxxis Holy Roller. I had a few Kenda tyres (in XC, 4X, Dirt) and even on a street/trial, I did not like them. Too narrow, not so grippy. The small block eight was OK though. Regarding the stem, I will go for a shorter one for sure. The stem on this bike looks like a 20" stem, around 160mm long or even more. I guess you can first try a 130mm long stem with some rise or even less if you want to tilt your bar forward (but there are not so many options around 100mm/110mm) According to me, Magura can hold very well if the whole system is not to stiff. Else, a liminal release of the lever affects the hold. If the rims are smooth but you have dedicated brakepads, you should be good, as long as the rims stay dry.

Hi, I guess it is an Echo pure MKII. I found following geometry data: - Wheelbase: 1085mm - Chainstays: 380mm - BB Height: +55mm - Head Angle: 72° - Reach: 655mm - Frame Spacing: 135mm Ali C. recommends to use a brake booster with the frame (it seems to be the mk1, that hat strain gauge tubes afaik) The stem looks really long... I think it is a good bike to start riding stock. Quite modern geometry.

The only game changing upgrade I recommend is a new freewheel with 135 engagement points. If the bikes uses disc brakes and you are not happy with, you can either change the brake pads for dedicated trials brake pads or switch to better brakes (hope, magura mt7 or BB7 if you don't want much maintenance). You can lighten the bike. If your tyres are Maxxis Creepy Crawler, you can get the new Monty tyres, that are lighter. Lighter wheels, titanium bottom bracket, titanium screws, carbon bar, titanium axle for the pedals, lighter tubes (aerothan or other). The lighter the bike the slower you get tired.

Hey, you are in the wrong subforum. What kind of bike do you have? Street/trials or comp bike?

Bought a new dirt frame. I asked the guy for the condition and I asked explicitly for dent, cracks or deformation. He said there was none. I received the frame today and the seat tube is cracked and deformed. I asked for a refund. The guy first gesture was 30 Euros... For a frame I paid 300 with cranks, seat post, headset and a disc rotor. He went up to 50euros. I think it is still unfair and he does not want to get the frame back (I even proposed to bear the shipping cost). He said the damage was visible on the pics. I did not used PayPal unfortunately. I am tempted to lodge a complaint (not too complicated here in Germany). What do you think?

I use a BMX combo saddle (eclat and KHE) with a sleeve (the tipical BMX seat tube diameter is 25.4mm). I like slim and padded one. Slim can hurt your legs on some bikes.

Hi and welcome, I think there is less risk to be injured in trials than in many others sports. The reason is that you can control almost all parameters. There is nobody that tries to catch the same ball and the weather conditions do not affect the sport in a unpredictable way. There is less speed than other MTB disciplines and thus less energy. Nevertheless, injuries related to the body (muscles, joints) are not uncommon due to the stress applied by the sport. My recommendation is then to warm up the fill body first, then slowly start small and slow moves without intensity. After 15/20 minutes you can then do bigger moves and ride at your best level. I will also recommend you to learn the basic tricks first and not to focus on a single one, but to train 10 different and complementary ones during the same session. For example, you can first try to learn the static balance on two wheels using the different techniques: using the pressure under your foot, by hopping both wheels simultaneously, by pivoting on the front wheel and the rear wheel. But during the same session, I encourage you to try to ride logs at slow speed to improve your balance, to try to ride within the smallest area possible, to learn to do some small stoppies, to pivot 90 degrees on the front, on the rear, to ride big steps down, to learn to hop with both wheels(no bunny hop, an American hop), to only raise the rear wheel while riding, and to learn the pedal kick on two wheels. The cool thing in trials is that all the different techniques could be somehow combined. So if you focus on a single one each time, it will be boring and you won't have the impression you get better as you could have. Last recommendation: on each session, try to do three moves you never did before. I don't mean necessarily new tricks, but tricks you already did at another place or with a variation (e.g. less speed, other angle, with less hop, in combination with another trick, with the wrong foot forward, etc.) Even if it sounds stupid, it will improve your skill set a lot (because it is not exactly the same move, it forces your body to assimilate the move deeper, so that you can execute it while focusing on something else). By the way, there is a Japanese trial rider who is more than 60 and has a YouTube channel:

Dub is the axle standard. The axle has a diameter of 28.99 as pointed out by Daan. But they are several bottom bracket shells: BSA, pf30, etc. For your inspired you need a dub BSA bottom bracket.