La Bourde

Something like that: Hoffmann bikes. See http://www.t-t-h.de/Trial-Team-Hoffmann Home New Bike part4.html

Hi, I think one has to consider the parts used for the build. For instance, if you get a Crewkerz Jealously, you will require specific cranks and bottom bracket (you can go for Maestro or Clean cranks too). Also a through axle on the rear. A tapered jitsie frame requires a specific headset and fork from the same brand. So if you only consider the frame, you may not end with the lightest build. But to be honest, weight is one thing, but stiffness and reliability are maybe more important.

And number three today... Have to go back to Maggies. Sad, I really like Vees, so easy to adjust, so easy to remove the wheel. I hope I will find some adapters soon.

Second one died this week too. The two other ones I own have already a slight crack.

Hey James, I saw your video and I am really sorry for your gears.😞 THANK YOU SO MUCH for all the effort you put in your videos! I think I am not the only one that get really motivated from your videos and I guess it will be fair if you get something back from the community too. Is there a way to help you somehow? A PayPal account or so? Let me know (PM if you prefer) PS: with each video your riding improves on this bike. Did you consider to compete at the national level?

I think most chains do not snap because of fatigue, but because of the wear of the axle and from side plates. The "stretch" of the chain is related to the wear of those too. So I'll say probably yes, but I have no experimental data, it is more a guess than something else. Another root cause for snapping is a hit on the chain itself. I used to ride without bash and my chain broke regularly. Measuring the stretch won't help in this case.

I am not a big fan of GMBN at all. Most of their videos are so superficial or just BS... But Doddy at least had a huge knowledge.

It was from last year though. Here something from this year: That is a pity that most journalist write on topics they have little clue about. In addition, they take so few pictures for this kind of article. Edit: I had one of this Balfa BB7. The shock on it was sh&t, but the suspension was still amazing at that time.

Hi, seen on Pinkbike, an article on the malverns classic retro show: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/the-malverns-classic-retro-show-and-shine.html Enjoy!

Hi everyone, this year I could not watch the World Championship online and I struggled to find a replay. I create this thread to list all the different videos related to the World championship that took place in 2023 in Glasgow. Do not hesitate to post any related video. I found following: The whole event: Men final trials 20&26": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBA2F7qOFiM Junior & Women Elite finals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV-qPp0fMj4 Team trials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-g9QBqRnt4 The official videos (highlights): Team elite final highlights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXweclOQVu4 Team highlights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLXLedGp90k From a channel called Bike Trials Direct https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVHmnW_m1ds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yjKdnJLoZ8 Charlie on a 26" !!!: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TirfJtnHH70 Street session (already posted on this forum) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3ox-db6RRQ

Notice that too. Cannot imagine it goes to production. Even for a street/trials bike, the figures are quite bad ... I guess the market for an all-rounder is already saturated now that Kenny got its own.😅

BB7 do not leak 😁 That is so sad not have great disc brakes for trials.

Fully agree. In addition, I guess in trials you can learn or improve the basic without taking much risks. You can fine tune your precision or body movement basically on each kind of lower obstacles (riding along a curve, riding some small stones,etc) You can also try to decompose the movement. In the 180° case: you can learn to rotate your hips and shoulders first, for example when doing some hops on the rear will, or doing some 90° with pedal kick on some marks on the ground you can learn to stat the movement correctly, by trying to manual in a turn you can learn to use your arm in the first part of the impulse by trying to do the same during a simple, straight bunny hop you can do some 180° in place first you can try to do some 180° as slow as possible, to improve the execution

My Monty adapter did not last that long!

In this article (in German, sorry), it seems that Galfer uses sintered brake pads (based on copper) especially for trials brakes (only one model of brakepad compatible with the different versions of the Hope Trials brake is available).

Some years ago, I tried to understand what would make a great brakepad. But I soon discovered, that tribology is a broad and difficult topic. Even with a higher coefficient of friction as spec from a brand, you cannot be sure, the brake pads will perform better ... So many variables in play (pressure, temperature, weather, rotor surface, etc.). Good brakepads for downhill bikes may be bad in street/trials, cause the rotor rotation speeds differs and the brakepads are glazed. There are a lot of different brands and models. I supposed most of them are just rebranding. For example, Hope use Galfer brakepads. But how to recognize the clones? Difficult... Do not hesitate to give feedback regarding these EBC reds.

You are welcome! Be careful, they have several models and I only tested the power and power + (the + version isolates the pistons more from the heat ...does not make sense for trials use).

I was really happy with the trickstuff! Power brakepads. I don't know if they exist for these Hayes brakes. The Jitsie brakepads have also a good call.

Did not most of the Boxx crack? Somehow I never really liked the Hydroxx. I really like the XTP though. I think the later models were much of a show (like the Karbon or the Levelboss with the strange seat tube) and did not make sens from a mechanical point of view.

To prevent my grip to move, I do the same as described in this article with wire, but I do not glue my push on grips: https://nsmb.com/articles/ditch-your-lock-grips/ I was sceptical first, I thought the wire will interfere, but it is not the case. I agree with Ross too: I went back from double side lock on on almost all my bikes. I used some Pro grips (again), the lock on trails ones, on my enduro and DH bike. 32mm.

I tried many different types of grips, including bar tape, Lizard skin DSP, ODI F1 vapor, etc. As Swoofty said, bar tape is not cushy, I don't know how people can ride with. Lizard skin DSP were quite good the first weeks but then they loose in comfort. They were too fragile too. The ODI vapor had a really good feeling, but they did not last two months sadly. Now I ride some basic PRO push on grips (the brand of Shimano) that cost me 6€ and with some wire, I am really happy with. Lot of grip and rubber, quite comfy.

Hi! As you wrote, grips are something quite personal. I cannot ride with grip too thin. 32mm suits me well. I tried 30mm may times but I got sore hands every time. I think if you are not confident in your setup, you will get troubles with forearms (grips, gloves, brakes, etc.). Confidence might be even more important that the grips themselves. One thing I notice too was, that the same grips but with lockon can be harsher, cause the compound is thinner. I went back from lockon and ride push-on grips hold by some wires (like in mx). Do you feel well with the gloves?

I found this map, with most German trials associations (push bike and motorbike). Again, get in touch with the associations.

You can be proud, nice video with a banger at the end. The level of some riders of this contest is amazing

The flow is more an entry level bike too and has quite long chainstays. The high end 24" models (Skye, Arcade) have a wheelbase smaller or equal to 1000mm.