La Bourde

Do you want to use this hose with HS33 or with disc brakes? It makes no sense to use this type of hose in combination with HS33, because the system uses low pressure. This is not the case of disc brakes. According to my experience with Hope tech 3 brakes, the feeling of the rear brake was better than with the original one. It makes no difference regarding the front brake. But good hoses like goodridge shall be as good as hope aviation.

Really like the almost stealth look! Hope you figure out the tensioner solution soon. Maybe a TartyBikes RD Hybrid Tensioner?

Nice to know. But I am not sure about the stiffness of the lever: I have the same generation of XT lever with servo wave and this type of clamp, and the stiffness is really bad. It is OK on a trail bike but even on a DH bike I did not like it. The clamp is narrow and there is an insert made of plastic to mount shifter/dropper lever. The newest design has a small appendix that improves the stiffness quite a lot. It seems there is still no newest XT trekking version though ... But a Deore version (Shimano BL-M4100) for 20€:

There is a Spank that is not single speed specific but is used by Yohann Triboulat successfully. There is a DT Swiss single speed hub, but the number of POE is low, 54 or so. You want a freehub, right? Else you could go for a Waw hub with an 18t freewheel (that implies a 22t chain ring).

Looks much more like trials than the UCI thing ...

It is not a silly question! It has a thread, but I am not sure about the width of the freewheel. As you can see on the picture, there is a kind of snap ring on one side making the freewheel quite wide. If your bottom bracket axle is wide enough, that shall fit!

I prefer freewheels using industrial ball bearings like the hashtagg. https://shop.hashta.gg/collections/roues-libres-freewheels/products/roue-libre-hashtagg-hashfree-12018

Fully agree unfortunately. Even someone as passionate as I am does not watch it till the end🫤

All freewheels with more than 72 poe have a lot of drag, due to stronger springs. The 135.9 with closed ball bearings seems to have slightly less drag than the 108.9. But even so, it is too much for street/trials. I have a brand new tensile freewheel with 60 clicks if you want. Regarding hubs : Y. Triboulat rides a spank one and he is happy. Some people are also happy with industry nine hubs, but some others had failures.

It seems that the Shin Dig is covering the world cup in Poland. Thank a lot to them!

I meant the black ones (not the blue race ones). They are for light to medium grinds according to trial-world.de but "smooth rims in dry conditions, but is also suitable for light grinds" according to tartybikes. On the Jitsie website, they mention "works best with grinded rims". I had good results on light to medium grinds. But maybe that is the reason why one part broke.😆 I think they wear faster than my Crewkerz or Coustellier pads. The price is amazing tough.

But if the callipers are even further, then you might have an issue with the cranks. So you will need a 128mm wide bottom bracket at least. Regarding the brake booster: the original one from magura does not fit most trial frame. That is the main reason why I prefer a V-brake setup on a frame with v-brake bosses: deore calliper, avid lever, shimano sp41 hose, jitsie pads or bmx pads from odyssey and you have an amazing combo.

The old Magura Evo mounting hardware was asymmetric, so that the offset of the callipers could be increased for wider rims. Here in the narrow rim configuration:

I recommend only trial specific ones, even with medium grinds. The best ones I had were some orange ones from Crewkerz. I liked the feeling a lot and the wheel never skipped. I have some Coustellier and I think they are not as good. Maybe they are too old (got them with an used bike), but they sometimes do not hold as the Crewkerz. I had also some Jitsie/Tr1al: they were not too expensive, quite loud but very powerful. I Iike them a lot, but after riding for a few months with, a part of a pad broke (one third of it). Maybe bad luck.

Thanks for the input. Thought about this in the past, but then the brake pads may hit the booster.🫤 Regarding the seat angle, you are right. It is a seat combo, so I cannot adjust it.🙁 Need a pivotal, but I don't want to spend much money on this build: I ride this bike as much as twice a year.🙄 This bike will never be a beauty...

Hi, not much to say about this bike. I use this bike when I visit my parents, so it is a cheap build. It is a KST Acidrop from 2006 (almost 20 years old my gosh...😳). KST was one of the subbrands from Koxx. Bought it more than 10 years ago and swapped time to time parts. The original ones were crap but now it rides quite well. Good enough for the small skate park around.

Got your point. Some people use really thin oil to fix the wandering bite point (e.g. putoline). Maybe you can try some old Shimano levers or the XTR race. They do not have servo wave. Regarding the mechanical brakes: this is what I meant with "feel of the lever". It feels less precise and there is much more friction. If you really like modulation, that is not the kind of brakes you want. As I wrote,I would like to test a MT4 caliper with a Magura Louise lever. An old shimano one could be a good alternative though.

In my opinion, mechanical Avid brakes are really the best for street trial. So predictable, so reliable, easy to fix or to adjust and quite cheap... Some might complaint about the feel of the lever though. I also use Slx and since a few weeks magura rotors. The magura are slightly thicker, so I hope they bend less. Will see.

Did you try Shigura? The magura brake callipers are quite good as you noticed. I have one MT4 and I want to try to use an old Louise lever with it. Did someone already try this combination? Formula Cura have a good call. I never own some unfortunately but a friend of mine like them on a MTB. They seem to be difficult to bleed perfectly. Cannot recall if they knock much.

As far as I know, the geometry changed a little (e.g. shorter chain stays), the chain tensioner on the later models is better integrated and the frame now has a disc mount only. To be honest, even the first version is good enough for most of us... Not only for a beginner.

The trials bikes and parts are expensive, that is right. But as Canardweb wrote, even at those prices it is difficult to make a living from it. On the other side, even an entry model is now working really well, I was surprised how good the Crewkerz freed rode. It is maybe 1kg heavier than a Jealously, but it is half the price. Modern parts from serious brands (trialtech, inspired, waw, tms, bonz, etc) are now quite good and reliable too,not like 15 years ago. In addition, used bikes are not so expensive and even a ten years old bike is pretty close to a modern bike (compare an Atomz Quark II to a Jitsie for example). Here in Germany, the used market is full of street/trial bikes. And as mentioned many times by Ali C, Super rider or others, there is no need of a dedicated trial bikes for a beginner. Clubs have often old trial bikes, like 10-20 years old Monty. And that is good enough. Finally, compared to mountain bikes, 3k for a bike is not much. That is the price of a frameset sometimes. For the price of an entry level trials bike, you won't find a correct mountain bike. I think the inflation was a big issue the last years and that is why the modern bikes feel so expensive: our wages did not increase that much sadly.

So scary... Also the fact he suspects the fork would break. Hope he rides further with the high bottom bracket bike. Based on my own experience, it took me many months to feel well on it.

Quite light, well done! Do you still plan to ride a carbon fork?

I think you already know that Ozonys belongs to Crewkerz. There are no so many actors currently and I think it won't get any better sadly due to the lack of interest in trials currently.😔 So there is nothing wrong to support even the biggest brands, they also need support.

Dual air is sadly not so reliable. But it was easy to lower. Current solo air requires to cut the air shaft at the right length: you can bore further and to tap a thread. Some old solo air required only a specific spacer.