La Bourde

Right, I will try to explain my thought. I think having more angular freedom for your feet helps when you cope: - Maybe even more when you cope the bike sideways, cause you put the bike out of axle and you have to twist your ankles. For sure the ankles give some range of motion, but can more angular freedom helps? - In addition, when I squat, my feet tend to twist - not sure if it is the case for everyone, but it is well known that clip less pedals without angular freedom can lead to knee issues. So if they are able to twist freely, maybe I can cope even faster/better/higher?

Hi, Saw recently a vblog about these new pedals: https://www.8degreepedal.com/collections/all The pedals are "floating" I.e. the platform can rotate from 4 degree in both directions of the yaw axis. I was wondering if this can help during high sidehops or bunny hops where the bike shall be lift to the body side. I guess the shoes already offer some kind of displacement, but maybe these pedals could help. What do you think? Would it be a problem for other moves? My sidehops are not high enough to have a relevant opinion 😐.

Thank you so much! My father gave me his broken mini lathe and as soon as I have more time, I will try to repair it (new power supply and motor- the V-brake adapters will be quite expensive ) I took already some measurements and they were really close to yours. NB: I noticed they are several types of V-brakes bosses so for the DIYers, be careful !

Currently my shoes are Pearl Izumi X-alp Flow I use a different innersole a little stiffer. Sometimes I use 5.10 freerider. I never rode with trial specific shoes like Hebo. Is it worth ?

I have or had some other pedals: Wellgo MG1, OneUp Composite, DMR V6, Shimano Saint, plastic pedals with plastic(animals rat trap, Cinema tilt) or aluminium pins... Pedals are like grips to me, I tried a lot and I know that some pedals may work better than other for a specific use. My preference is for plastic body, they are less slippery in the wet. I really like the OneUp for example, for DH and enduro at least. But I do not like them on a trial bike, too grippy and the pins are too aggressive. Somehow in trials I feel I need less grip than for other disciplines. I am a big fan of 5.10 in MTB but I ride Pearl Izumi shoes in trials. The Xpedo are really light and the pins are OK. There was only this slight play when riding in the wet that I fixed using the tape.

I guess it makes sense first when soles and pedals are worn. As long as the paint is present, the body has enough grip in wet conditions. But I have some pedals which body is almost polished by the soles of my shoes. In this case, even if the pins are sharp, I feel less grip. I rode today again in wet conditions and still have the impression it is better.

Hi, the last few wet rides, my feet just keep slightly move on the pedals: the paint on the aluminium body is missing on some area and the soles of my shoes are worn much. In addition, the xpedo spry are not concave and the axle protrudes. Years ago, I removed the original pins and put some grub screws (6 mm and 8mm, if I recall correctly) Not a problem in dry conditions, but as soon as the sole is wet I was a little annoyed. So I tried to glue some skate grip tape. The first ride with the grip tape is positive. Do you use grip tape in your pedals? How long does it last?

👍 Just want to comment on that one. I am 178cm tall (5 feet 10 inch) I own a Crewkerz cleep in large and I rode a medium for more than 10 days, with the 145x25 WaW stem and a bar with a medium rise. I noticed that the large was too long! I had several stems on the large one: the old WaW in 145x25 and 150x35 with a bar with less offset (rise but in the horizontal plan, according to Crewkerz 82mm) and the new WaW ultimate in 145x20 and 135x20 (bar with 102mm rise) I still struggle with front moves, I am still learning them, so maybe my opinion is biaised. First of all, the 145x20 with the new bar tilted forward felt amazing when I put my weight on the front to lift the rear wheel. I was much more confident. I found that I was more stable on the rear wheel, it was less tiring, but the bike was less responsive - quite easy to notice when I tried to spin on the rear wheel. It felt like the rear wheel was stuck to the ground. Rolling down big steps was horrible, big lack of confidence. But the main issue was, that I injured one of my arm/shoulder... I guess I had to over extent my arm/shoulder... I could not push the bike as forward as I wanted to. For example, when I failed on a big pedal hop to rear wheel, I could not hold the bike while landing backwards on my feet, the bar was just too far. I also found the pedal hop more difficult, it was somehow more difficult to control the lateral balance during the pedaling part. So I bought the 135x20 and tilted the bar less forward. It was a new bike, much more dynamic, much closer to the medium one I rode (with the 145x25 and 102 rise bar). I really enjoy to ride with again. I was able to manual again (still a pain in the a$$ though) It feels almost like with the 145x25 WaW stem and the 82mm bar. Overall I guess the medium fits me better, cause I have a bike easier to move and I am able to put more weight on the front axle that with the large one with the 135x20 stem. I prefer shorter wheelbase somehow too, I think it easier to tap for my riding level. The small advantage on the rear wheel does not make sense to me. I guess on a long section or a day of competition, you may feel less tired, which can be a game changer then. I also rode a Jealousy 2017 or so in small with a 135 stem for several days. This one was like a 20", really manoeuvrable, but so much that I prefer a medium one (but it was quite fun to ride though) I have also a Crewkerz Freed, much shorter (1070mm wheelbase instead of 1090 for the large cleep), a lower bb (45 instead of 65) with a less aggressive position. It is quite more difficult or more exhausting to stay on the rear wheel, but it ride well. I have the impression I can move faster on the bike. The front moves are much difficult though. Recently I also put on my cleep a trialtech 90x35mm stem and tilt a street bar with 100mm rise like on a street trial. I put almost 30 mm spacers, so that my position relative to the bottom bracket is similar to the one on my street/trial (the bar is still not high enough). I was easier in manual but the bunny were still feeling bad. I did not trust myself much, like I will with a street/trial. I was OK on the rear wheel, much easier to spin. I did not make a great street trials 😄 I assume a lot of trial riders rode with a long stem and tilted bar because of Jack Carthy. But he is bigger and agiler than most and he ended up riding a medium frame! The new Jealousy seems also a little shorter. Oliver Widmann rides a medium one too and he is also taller than me. To me, it seems trials is going a step back, the bikes were too long. And I guess it makes more sense to lower the the bar height than moving it forward and higher.

Thanks for the answer. With these information, I guess the Extention is the way to go. (Even if I hate IS headset in an aluminium frame) Do you know who are the guys behind Extention?

The moves on/to the front are so impressive... Thanks for sharing!

You are right. I don't know whether the frame uses a specific tapered headtube or not. It looks for me like the Jitsie frame, which uses a non standard size (1"⅛- 1"¼ instead of 1"⅛ - 1"½). This forces one to buy a Jitsie (or in this case Extention) fork. (Or maybe you can build yourself an adapter for a straight fork tube) If the frame uses this non standard size, I think the Comas is a better choice. Extention is also quite new in the trial scene and even in the street trials one. Will they pursue the development of trials bikes? I guess both bikes are good enough. They both have a modern geometry. Maybe you will have to swap the brakes at a point of time. I recommend Tartybikes too, they are great.

Hi and welcome, The extention seems to use a more modern conception (tapered headtube, 24mm axle cranks), but these parts seems to be proprietary. The comas uses older parts, but they will be easier to replace. So maybe the Comas will be better for you. You can have a look at the crewkerz desire. Webcyclery used to sell Crewkerz...

A dartmoor right? Looks good in raw! The pumptrack 🔥😍 Where is it?

Ergon has a downhill specific saddle that is short. There is a version with titanium rails. The nose is quite wide though,don't know if it fits well.

As I wrote, I am really satisfied with Trialtech products. But if the freewheel is somehow specific, will it be still available in 3 years? The price of the crankset is quite good though... I had a closer look at the tartybikes pictures and I saw the difference between the trialtech freewheel and a crewkerz or clean spline freewheel. I think it is not possible at all to put another freewheel (or maybe if one removes part of the spline using a lathe, but the steel is hardened...)

Hi everyone, quick question regarding the trialtech sport lite spline crank: Is it possible to use another brand of freewheel? Like Crewkerz/WaW? I like most trialtech products but I do not want a product with too specific parts.

This is ridiculously well thought:

😐 never understood how eBay works...

I sourced some 7075 aluminum at Metall Nord: https://www.ebay.de/str/metallnord/Plattenstarke-20mm/_i.html?store_cat=3698788016 I expected it would be a hassle to find some, but it was quite easy. Maybe I was lucky though.

Thanks mate! So I guess this very frame was jinxed. 😂

Hi, Today I crashed with my Crewkerz Cleep at the same spot I crashed some months ago with my Atomz Quark II. The Quark had 3 new dents during this crash: one small and one medium on the top tube and one small on the down tube. I was quite surprise to be honest. Not a big deal though, the frame was still going strong a few months later as I sold it. The Cleep had no dent at all. The crash was similar but I guess the forces applied on the frame in both cases may have differed a lot. I know that the Cleep has quite simple tubes and thus is pretty reliable. I bought the Quark 2 used and it came with already some small dents (down tube, top tube and chainstay) but it looks overall in a good condition. So my question is: was the Quark more sensible to dent than the Cleep ? What is your experience?

I watched only a single video and my jaw already dropped: Nice level!

😮👍 Some big moves here for sure mixed with manuals and other stylish moves : I really like it!

I guess everyone feels a little crammed on a street/trials bikes. It is not a comp bike and a different compromise had to be done. One solution could be to ride a wide bar, like a 800mm. But to find one with high rise is not easy. Maybe Deity or Spank have one. Spinning may be more difficult though. Another solution to feel better on the rear wheel is to lower the cockpit. The body position is more upright, you load more your feet and less your arms/back. It makes bunnyhop more difficult though.

Sorry,but where do they come from ? Hope hubs are produced in England. Maybe they are counterfeit.