La Bourde

The crewkerz top cup has a particularly low stack height. Carbon forks make less problem than aluminium forks, if produced and installed correctly. According to Crewkerz they have much less problem with HS33 carbon forks than aluminium ones.

Hi, First, let me introduce the terms: - oxidation is just a change in aspect and has no impact on strength. - corrosion means the part strength is potentially affected. Now, we have to distinguish two phenomena: - oxidation / corrosion through air/cold temperature/moisture/salt exposition - galvanic corrosion due to different metal combined together The first one occurs more or less when some conditions are met in the environment. The other one may not be visible, it can occurs for example with seat tube and seat post. Important to know: 1. Temperature plays a role indirectly: the warmer the air, the wetter the air can be, so the more oxidation can occur. It is quite counter intuitive because we often use heat to dry things. 2. Oxidation depends on: - the humidity - salt concentration As soon as there is a little salt, the required amount of humidity is really low, maybe 30% for steel to oxide (sorry I don't know the precise values). But if the air is not salty at all, the humidity has to be quite high to start the oxidation (for steel, maybe 60%) - it is the same for other metals afaik. I.e. exposition to salty air or water is just a mess! And sweat or riding on salty roads in winter can be enough. Hamburg is quite a bad city in this respect (Baltic sea) In addition, mixing metal can lead to galvanic corrosion, which is also a big mess. Aluminium/titanium is really a bad combo. Metals that are further from each other have the highest rate of corrosion when combined Aluminium exposed to the environment can only oxide, because oxidation creates a thin protective layer. But galvanic corrosion can attack the whole aluminium part... To prevent oxidation/corrosion: - prevent mix of materials with different potential (see chart) - Lubricate to isolate (Teflon or copper based grease for parts in contact, sticky oil/wax for parts exposed to environment), regularly - paint or anodize surfaces to isolate - Wash the bike with tap water after riding and dry it, lubricate again - Store it in a dry location (at best cold, to prevent high humidity) - Prevent salty environment and try not to sweat 🙂

Thanks mate. There are people with much more experience! Hope I can share the little I know and thus help this amazing sport!

It is neither my mother tongue, so the issue may come from my side ! High bottom brackets and steep head angles make track standing much more difficult. As already written, try not to brake, try to find some uneven surfaces... But when the surface is really flat, open both brakes, try to turn your shoulders as much as your front wheel and put your chest above the bar. When I get back on the comp bike I find me having the bad habit to stand not straight enough, too much on the rear. Also pulling the front brake and moving your hips rearwards give a backward impulse that you can use to get back (and forth by counteracting with the pedal pressure). Furthermore, improving your body English and your fitness are two other areas of progression. I forgot also three advises : 1. Have your head straight, it is really really helpful. 2. Try to look at the horizon. According to some, it helps too. 3. Some argue that training by night improves your proprioception too.

The cracks to the spoke holes are very interesting. When the spoke tension is too high, some cracks can appear, but mostly on the outside. When the tension is too low, the spokes broke (don't expect the hub shell to crack first)

I have a Bluegrass (the other brand of Met), I like it. I bought a cheap Leatt (25 quids!) and it is surprisingly good. I have good experience with both brands. I have also a IXS light fullface and other stuff from them and I am also happy with. I ordered once a Laser, it was heavy and the shape did not fit my head (very wide helmet) My only recommendation: look at the straps, some brands have some that are really thin and brake easily. Check how they are connected to the helmet.

Rich rode an old inspired hex: Some nice moves there! Can't wait to see the upgraded version... I ride a similar one (a 2011) with front freewheel, v-brakes, inspired bar, hope 70mm stem and I really enjoy it.

It is easier when you face a gentle slope uphill: Mastering the Art oft trials is really a good video to learn trials. There are 4 possibilities to regain balance: - use your foot pressure (release or add pressure with both brakes open), this is the most efficient way to maintain balance (but does not work when it goes downhill. The better you get, the less you move. Stand straight and tall, but relaxed, as strilingpowers wrote. - turn your wheel less or further (that is not something that one uses really, it is more a recovery move or setup move if you face against an obstacle and want to lean against for example) - pivoting on one wheel (like front then rear): used to setup correctly in front of an obstacle, to move laterally. Commonly used to align when your front wheel is on a rail or before a big move in front of an obstacle when the approach is short. It is a load transfer. When pivoting on the front, straight your arms but your shoulders over the bar, like a gymnast on a bar. When pivoting on the rear, you can first maintain the rear brake closed, but when you get better you can slightly open the brake and use your pedal to ease the rotation. - hop both wheels at the same time: cost a lot of effort, mostly used as a recovery or on really uneven surfaces (small pebble, cobble stone). Most of the time, use both brakes. When you get good at riding, try to reduce as much as possible the rear brake usage. Use the pedal pressure instead, find some egdes, find some holes or slopes, etc.

Agree. I think it would be much better for all brands to stick on some standards. Just for the sake of completeness, the 142mm standard is the same as 135 regarding chain line or disc placement. They only add 3.5mm on each side to lead the hub within the frame rear ends (which is a nice feature, it makes installing the wheel easier, but far from necessary) Not sure a wider hub will increase a lot the stiffness of the wheel. I guess the current rims lack stiffness.

Thank you for the feedback - this hub is as you said a good alternative to Hope, at least on paper. Did you check the chain tension? Did you check nothing is loose? The profile of teeth and the overall stiffness of the system play a role in the feeling. Some systems may have many engagement points, but until their teeth are really locked and the whole power could be transmitted, a dead or a spongy response coud be felt due to the play of flex of the system. So even with the same number of engagement points, two different freewheels can have a different feeling (e.g. hub with "instant engagement" like the Onyx, that uses a sprag clutch or trapped roller design may feel quite spongy) In addition do not forget, that the difference between the Hope pro IV SS freewheel with 88 p.o.e. and the Pro V with 108 p.o.e. (20 p.o.e. but 4,09° - 3,33°= 0,76° ) is less than between a freewheel with 72 p.o.e. and another with 88 (16 p.o.e, but 5° - 4,09° = 0,91°) I have a freewheel with 120 p.o.e. and another one with 135 and the difference is liminal. But considering the answers of Daan and basstrials, I assume your freewheel is defective.

So I found at least some threads in this forum with the geometry of the Atomz Evo3: Wheelbase: 1055mm, but found also 1045mm (might be the case depending of the forks) Bottom bracket height: 0, but +20mm in some other threads Chainstay length: 390mm Head angle: 71° Frame weight: around 1,8kg Regarding the megamo equip pro I found that the rear disc mount is +40.

Hi, Would like to know the geometry of the Megamo Radical (the one with semi integrated headset), Equip pro and Atomz Evo 3. And what was your experience with these frames? Did they crack and where? Thanks. Atomz evo III: Megamo equip pro (not the original paint) Megamo Radical:

Agree regarding the truss, it is inherently stiffer than a 4-member construction, if and only if the members are comparable. Not sure this is the case here, there are 3 tubes and a CNC part against a 3 tubes construction. But I get your point and surely the inflection point at the weld on the top of the dropout is questionable at least. The difference in stiffness between a tube and a CNC/forged part could also be a concern (maybe also the reason of the damage on Daans picture)

Why do you assume the rear end will be stiffer when the welds meet? Around the welds, the mechanical properties are worst due to the heating. It depends also on the material, aluminium is more affected than steel or titanium for example. Having longer welds shall be worst but it may also allow to dispatch the load on a larger section, thus reducing the punctual stress. (This is done here on the chain- and seatstays: the welds are not orthogonal to the tube to increase the weld length) So it really depends on the conception of the frame, the stiffness of each sections, etc. And increasing a section may not strengthen the frame: it can move the load or even concentrate it on a location that was less stressed before the change. There are bad patterns in conception though. I am more worried by the weld above the disc caliper, that will get repeatidly a lot of shear force...🤨 Finally, the only relevant fact we have is the difference in experience: Inspired produces street/trial frames with disc mount for many years with this specific design. The design used by clean is present on a od comp trial bike only, where the forces transmitted by the wheel may be less (20" instead of 24") But this is only an assumption, it may be well designed.

Thanks for the clarification. I had to deal once with the Hermances father during the last years of Koxx. As a customer, my experience shown me a dubious behaviour,but at it ended well. Hashtagg delivers parts for Crewkerz, but recently Vincent removed the decals on his Crewkerz... That is strange to me. Ps: Maybe you can edit your precedent post (in case one only reads this specific message).

Made by Dobermann bikes... That is a good pedigree! I had one Dobermann Pinsher that I sold to a friend. He still rides it in pumptrack. Lovely frame with nice finish. And you were right regarding the bb.

Such a nice edit! Really appreciate the smooth and clean lines. The engagement is also present, the huge tire tap gap was mind blowing for me. I think the Hex suits you better than any 24". Stick on it and please continue to film!

Is this the same company, that did the titanium bb? I know there is also a German brand call Reset, with really high quality products, that does nice headset and bottom brackets. But they never did trials specific parts.

He became 40 this year and rides at world cup level for more than 20years! Vincent is amazing!

The alloy used can make a difference, but unfortunately, that does not tell us how well they are produced. Tolerances are a big deal on a hub. Time will tell.

Because of the fork height. There might be until 15mm difference or so. The head angle varies from less than 1° max.

I don't get why Clean did this bike now. The current market in street is saturated, they are already so many brands present. And here in Germany, the used market is full with cheap, almost new Inspired, Extension, Tms, Canyon, Ozonys.... I guess they are around 100 ads... It is nice too see they want to expand, but I am not sure it is the right period for that. Wish them the best though! But to me, current brands shall reduce their offer and concentrate on a few models, with a lot of interchangeable parts. I saw a video recently of one guy trying to build a Clean X3 and complaining it was the most difficult build he ever had and he sounds quite frustrated. It is hard to repair a bike with fresh parts currenly (It was easier some years ago at least), even with the amazing job of the few trial stores. Some are not available anymore. The bikes are more expensive than ever and I guess it keeps young riders away from the sport. And the current economic situation (at least here in Europe) gets worst and worst. So reducing the production costs shall be a priority to my eyes.

Finger crossed. Here in Europe, the start of the legal warranty is and stay the date of acquisition. It means, if the first hub was replaced one day before the end of the warranty, the warranty covers the new hub only for one day 🫤

Maybe Hope had a bad batch and this hub landed on the grey market. Today I saw a video about Hope counterfeit cranks (in French else I would have share). Difficult to tell the difference until they crack. He notable differences were: - one part was not anodised but is anodised one the genuine ones - the label of the crank length is lasered instead of CNC'd - the axle machined in a slightly different way.

That sounds quite bad. I never encountered an issue with the 3 Hope pro IV ss/trials I owned. Neither on the classic one on my wheels for enduro/DH. The steel outer ring slips within the hub shell, right? Like with your first one? Is the hub shell cracked? Who laced the wheel? What was the spoke tension?