La Bourde

I had quite a similar built, same brakes, Hope hubs, alloy rims, SLX cranks. The Zee brakes are good and not too expansive. With trickstuff power brake pads, they are amazing. Only problem I had was a wandering byte point. I use also DT rims (FR560), not too expensive and really good manufactured. There is a new model (fr541) with wider flange hook to prevent flats. Unfortunately, not available in 26"... Hope they will produce it for 26".

I like the new rules, cause now the riders can choose different lines to get over an obstacle. A good example was this year during the world championship, when Oliver Widmann had a complete different lines, using another obstacle, with a slight slope during the final. On the other side, as Canardweb wrote, it does not reward someone that battles to clear an obstacle. On the contrary, it rewards people that are cleaned and do not hesitate to dab once to clear a further obstacle. To me, this is not so bad, cause it makes it more strategic. As already said, the new rules are more complex. It makes it difficult to follow for spectators. And the arrows to delimit the course... No way. It is so difficult for a TV spectator to visualize where it is allowed to ride ... On top of this, many times the riders got a 5 cause a judge though that the axle was too much on the outside... This seems too random for a spectator. I liked the team event though, was fun to watch even it is impossible to understand whether a nation can still get on the podium or not.

That is interesting. Years ago I built an aluminum dirt jump with the goal to be able to do some trials moves with. I had a Shimano Zee derailleur on it. Somehow I wasn't really enjoying it much. The reliability with the Zee was good though. My steel street/trials based on a steel park frame runs a single speed. I built the bike so that a derailleur fits, but the simplicity of single speed got me. Having a light version of the Truvativ Hammerschmidt (was heavier than having 9 speeds) would be really nice.

One thing I can think of: better freewheel based on the I9 approach: use the flex of the pawls to increase contact area. Maybe the freewheel will feel sluggish, don't know. But it may improve reliability. Having standards shared between the different brand would be such a help too. Carbon could be the next big thing, but trials companies are miles away to get the quintessence of this stuff...

Are longer wheelbase better? Jack Cathy and Oliver Widmann ride a medium Crewkerz... Does having hands closer to the steering axle help? It means also less feedback. The problem with modern comp bike to manual or to bunny comes moslty from the weight distribution, which results from the high bb basically. But, having the bottom bracket much higher than the rear axle makes the bike more difficult to control, it is too reactive. It it quite easy to feel on a 29". Once in position, the manual feels very stable.

The reason is the flex of the spokes. There is nothing to do against this (or reinvent the wheel maybe😄) When a rider is on his rear wheel on a round surface (like a sphere) for example, a disc brake won't be as good as a rim brake. I tried my self with a comp bike and a street/trials and I noticed a difference too. I don't know how to reduce the brakepads clearance too, so that there is no play when the rotor is hold. I am a big fan of disc brakes too, but for a 26" comp bike, I am not sure it will be possible to use a rear disc.

Exploziv, a french brand in the late nineties tried this concept: https://www.lafabricavelo.fr/le-catalogue/nos/cadres-nos/ I still have a cracked zon'up frame from them in my basement... Only thing I recall riding it was the terrible amount of flex around the headtube.😄

Thx mate! If it gets too complicated, I will go for a bashgard on the cranks..

I used to ride some MTB hardtails. One reason was, that I wanted to shunt my bike around, do some trials moves. At that time, I was riding mostly with some friends and their full sus. I owned for example an old Sunn tzar or even a Commencal Absolute (for its short chainstays) with wide rims, Hammerschmidt cranks to get more clearance, etc. It was really difficult to follow my buddies. The biggest problem was the condition. I got tired really early. At the end, I didn't ride much trials with these bikes... My friends did not want to spend to much time in the appropriate sections. Now I ride a burly 650b full sus with 120mm travel (currently a Devincy Django). Surely it is easier with a hardtail to stay on the rear wheel. But if you get a nimble full sus (like an old 4x bike), you can move it quite easily and you can still bomb down the trails. It fits better my kind of riding. Some suspensions react better than other to a pedal kick. The major part of the anti squat is created thanks to the chain tension. If the frame has a lot of anti squat in the appropriate gear, the suspension will extend during the pedal kick or at least stay high, as long as you keep your pedal loaded. If the frame has too much anti squat, you will get an opposite force (kickback) when lowing down your body (and thus compressing the suspension) or when your wheel hits something: this can be disturbing. Having not enough anti squat will reduce the chain tension, the pedal kick feels spongy/undefined, like with a hub with less engagement. That is for the theory.

That would be very kind, thx!

There was a cheap one and I was always tempted to ride one. I tried two years ago a quite modern mod and I was really surprised how well it felt. Years before I tried a Monty and I really dislike how it felt. I think riding a mod will force me to tries moves I do less with a 26". As someone coming from MTB, I try to roll a lot obstacles and to keep my momentum. The Atomz feels really good. Currently it is at my parents place, so I will not ride it much. I will try to get it home for winter.

Thanks bro! The second one seems not to be compatible, the mount on the back is vertical. Maybe I will go for a bashguard instead. A plate would be nicer, I never rode 20" and I think it makes send to ride it differently.

I guess the boss tries to twist the adapter too: considering the picture on the right, the brake pads push against the rim and an opposite force applies on the V-brake boss, but with an offset to the baseplate. Thus, the top of the boss is pushed to the outside, while the baseplate is fixed and the low part of the boss cannot moves to the outside: this creates a twist, that occurs each time the brake lever is pulled.

I guess it makes sens to use the same width for both mods and stocks. But I'll say both 135 and 142 are obsolete in MTB. I did not double check, but I guess a lot of steel dirt frames use 135mm though. I fully agree with you regarding the chain tensioner. Eccentric can slip too, they can have a slightly different angle on both sides and the change in the chain tension will require to adjust them regularly.

Hi everyone, Is there any "standard" for the bash plate on a mod? I already noticed several designs. I look for a bash plate for an Atomz akt XX. Thx.

What size is yours? Stock build? The one I rode was a small size and all parts were chosen for their weight... I mean there was some aluminum screws for the HS33 bleeding port and for the chain tensioner. Even the fork steerer was cut as low as possible...

I don't understand why people ride something else than Shimano on their MTB. Amazing technology and engineering (OK do not consider the durace ace maybe)

I once rode a small stock Crewkerk Jealousy, 9mm axle tapered carbon fork to reduce weight, titanium and aluminum screws, recutted tyres, Jitsie rim band, radial laced front wheel, etc. It weights under 8kg, cannot recall exactly how much. So nimble, it was so amazing. But I had some concerns regarding reliability.

Something like that: Hoffmann bikes. See http://www.t-t-h.de/Trial-Team-Hoffmann Home New Bike part4.html

Hi, I think one has to consider the parts used for the build. For instance, if you get a Crewkerz Jealously, you will require specific cranks and bottom bracket (you can go for Maestro or Clean cranks too). Also a through axle on the rear. A tapered jitsie frame requires a specific headset and fork from the same brand. So if you only consider the frame, you may not end with the lightest build. But to be honest, weight is one thing, but stiffness and reliability are maybe more important.

And number three today... Have to go back to Maggies. Sad, I really like Vees, so easy to adjust, so easy to remove the wheel. I hope I will find some adapters soon.

Second one died this week too. The two other ones I own have already a slight crack.

Hey James, I saw your video and I am really sorry for your gears.😞 THANK YOU SO MUCH for all the effort you put in your videos! I think I am not the only one that get really motivated from your videos and I guess it will be fair if you get something back from the community too. Is there a way to help you somehow? A PayPal account or so? Let me know (PM if you prefer) PS: with each video your riding improves on this bike. Did you consider to compete at the national level?

I think most chains do not snap because of fatigue, but because of the wear of the axle and from side plates. The "stretch" of the chain is related to the wear of those too. So I'll say probably yes, but I have no experimental data, it is more a guess than something else. Another root cause for snapping is a hit on the chain itself. I used to ride without bash and my chain broke regularly. Measuring the stretch won't help in this case.

I am not a big fan of GMBN at all. Most of their videos are so superficial or just BS... But Doddy at least had a huge knowledge.