davey1991

No problem. I've got to go buy the new one for this extra feature bit. Sorry the photos aren't brilliant but you can read/ see it.

Wow well i had those rims with grind and a disk and stripped monty cranks, wierd. It looks nice always liked Czar frames.

There photos but they should be big enough to read. These are both the sections including the bit at the start that was left out.

I'll do it i sec.. Uploading them currently will be up shortly.

Those cranks and wheels look familiar, get them of smobyby chance? If so they used to be mine.

Because if he misses from that height a helmet will make alot of difference ..

Subtle ownage there?

Is it sad that I do this quite alot, even just silly little ones? It always goes down well for me... If i'm honest better than quite alot of things, as long as they are acctually relevant to something they always seem to make her smile.

Yeh it doesn't look to huge to be un-true.

I saw these the other day. They make a 24" rim aswell don't they? If you think there strong i might concider a couple of the 24" instead of trialtechs.

Yep, thats exactually what i used to do before i went 24". Cross overs don't like it though.

He wasn't trying to be funny. If you look at the very top of the topics in NMC there is a new members bike pictures thread. This does seem like a bit of a pointless thread.

If you have an old piece if chain and some gloves you don't need a chain whip, saving yourself £15 or more. Lockring tools. http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/product/10096.html Quite cheap and all you need is a spanner, some patience and some brute force.

Sorry here again, yes i did get a rough ish finish but as its the rubber bits that create the seal and create the majority of the friction it has little to no effect, i used slightly heavier than wet and dry but wet and dry does the job. Oil up the seals afterwards bleed them with magura blood first then either leave it like that or re bleed with water. Edit: Forgot to mention that if you use this method you need to make sure theres no plastic bits in the lever or it will jam in between the rubber seals and the plastic and un-do all your work.

The standard set-up isn't brilliant but some wider bars with a shallow angle make it feel much much nicer.

24seven slackers are nice but there more bmx styled. I mean i've only been jumping 5 years.

This is also true.

I have a 3 pawl (Not a DMR one) and mine is equally awfull... Was concidering the DMR 6 pawl or the DJD but this is for a jump bike. I still suggest a Pro 2 but its up to you.

Not as much no but the cheaper hubs wont last very long anyway, honestly your best bet is a Pro 2.

Not really there only 99g more than the drilled rim, hardly lead. only 70g heavier than the Echo TR rear rim and probably a hell of a lot stronger Zona Zip guy get your facts sorted more first.

I had the same problem, it sounds horriable but it really works. Get some VERY very light sandpaper and gently and evenly sand round plastic bit try to avoid the rubber bits. Do little bits re fit it check for movement and then the same again until it works again then completely soak it in oil and it should all be ok. As long as you dont damage the rubber bits you'll be fine this has worked on 5 of my brakes!

The engagements aren't as strong as they don't need to be.

I don't think these are made anymore, they where popular quite a few years ago and since then things have moved on alot.

I'm a goodie goodie. :$

Then i'd say. "Wha....?" And get stabbed .