shamus

running 185 on stock, plenty of power and loads of mudulation!

OR... learn everything 'both footed' and you'll reap the benifits of being able to ride with whichever foot suits the situation. Being able to ride either foot is a huge advantage, allowing you to adapt to turning/sidehopping/different length run ups, with ease. However you'll probably find one foot dominates at some point would be interesting to know whether you are goofy or regular on a skateboard/snowboard etc.

or get a hole built into the dropout to accept a opposite 'chain tug'. these are basically a hole with a threaded bolt on the line of the axle, you can screw this out to push against the axle on both sides to tension the chain however they are part of the dropout instead of hanging out the back like some tensioners

any idea what the largest tyre i can get in my echo pure on a 47mm echo rim. currently got a nokian gazzoldi in there (2.3) which almost rubs so the claims that a 2.5" tyre will fit seem a little odd to me thanks for any replies

as mentioned hitting it with your toe is almost impossible, think where they are located below the level of the tyre, and alongside a often spinning object. how often do you hit your front tyre with your feet??? the stress transfer to the forks is higher but it does cause less stress on the threads of the mount. so if you often destroy threads maybe its an option.

In essance.... check for loose things Especially play in bearings like in the pedals as mentioned above, another area to examine is the bb, the biggest thing to look for is lateral movement - grab the cranks by the pedal area and wiggle in and out. if they move away from the centreline of the frame then the bb is wasted! If your cranks have play in them (should notice this by one side having much more movement then the other) and you can afford it, then replace them and the bb (while your at it you may as well and this stops a worn bb ruining your cranks.) hope that helped, and stay away from the ACS lol, tensiles are good, thats what i'd go for only ever heard good things and my mates is epic! (just thought, check there that interferes with the cranks rotation, like something which catches (my cranks were catching my maggy body so i had to get a longer axle)

when i started (a while back it went - raliegh flogger (haha first thing i started doing hops on, snapped) onza T-rex (still got and it was awesome to bunny hop/manual etc but it had a stripped out bottom bracket from the previous ham fisted owner so that didnt last long) mission reefer - snapped- re welded- snapped the mission again in october so got ... monty urban (which was lovelry and short ) then end of october got bored of the stupid 25" brake mounts so... echo pure 08

With the TPA replacement i have, the red adjuster just popped back on, so no glue, no sign of bodging and a stronger replacement then the standard issue in the first place. I may be able to upload a few photos if it was required?

would be nicer if instead of having to clamp it, the post was splayed, with a wedge inside. That way the seat could be tightened using an allen bolt which sits recessed in the surface of the seat pad. This could also allow for angle adjustment (in the manner usually used on with bmx seats with recessed bolts), all in one smooth move, while still looking clean as fook! just an suggestion though

Not going to make any comments on the effectiveness/weaknesses of the brake being under the seatstays but it will look CLEAN AS HELL, imagine a smooth, un-interrupted line from dropout to headtube! i reckon it'll look sick. good effort for thinking outside the box! and if there are never issues with the brake sitting on top then would there be any issues with it sitting below? well there is only one way to find out

Strip any paint off the dropout area where the wheel is being clamped. If your frame is painted, as the wheel moves around it will be rubbing off little bits of paint etc, these will then act a 'bearings' between the snail and the dropout, meaning the wheel can slip a little easier Worked for my BMX and meant i never needed to run any tensioners. another possibility is to take the file to the actual dropout. Rough up the area which is normally clamped on, also make sure you rub the cam up a little as well on its inside face. Hope some of this helps bud

if its for your son (and he is only 11) then the problem could be ergonomics. A mod would probably be best. Trying to haul a longer stock bike around may be more difficult for a kid and may cause a loss of motivation! Which would be a shame, also if you intend to try comps etc then a mod would be best to perfect techniques on. Having said that i started riding very short, 'street' stock set-up at a fairly young age (12/13 i think ) and although it probably slowed my progress it was still great fun So i'd say if there are any riders on here that live near you, then maybe meeting up/ going to see them riding may give you a better idea as to which bike would be best! hope that helps sean

Good effort, that must have taken time and thought, which is most unlike the majority of topics/comments in this area! Well done! If your enthusiasm and eloquent writing style continues, I don't think you will have any trouble finding answers to any of your woes! Welcome to T-F I say!

Thats from a jeremy clarkson book isn't it? Swear i have read it before somewhere.

No normally but yes atm because I'm being slowly killed by this illness Today is the only day this week i got out the house for a decent length of time and that was for a uni test Normally though its starting riding that is the hardest, once your out there and riding i normally end up in just a Tee-shirt. Or long sleeve T and shorts (with shinnys).

got some fox gloves. best gloves i have always found for me are 661 and Fox. the shape and cut is brilliant. as is quality on the whole. the fox ones i have now are proabably the best i've had, really thin and the entire palm/inside of fingers is one piece if material so no annoying seams!

Use the Search function is probably the easiest way? There are many many topics like this out there. Chances are, someone has already answered all your possible questions in another thread, and as shown the wiki is a valuable source of information!

check out 'plymouth ride' in rides/locations in full members, there appears to be loads of people out, i won't be though as i'll be hungover because its my birthday tomorrow wooooo!

yup! wasted my life reading uni work, work and darkness (can't ride some of my fav spots in the dark, its just to sketchy!)

Tthe DnB is an energy thing, it gives me a lift or a boost. i prefer rock and metal the rest of the time. and muse is awesome, big fan of ratm etc. and radiohead make some of the best tunes to put a video to, so chilled and classy

if you dont need the bb then soak in degreaser or pentrating oil, give it time to do the business then try again If you do need it then some of these 'release sprays' work by rapidly freezing the bolt, if you can cool the bolt rapidly the it cracks the rust/ contact and makes removal easier. otherwise its precision blowtorch and rapid cooling which could damage the bb. try googling releasing stuck bolts, loads of options but all pretty destructive to the bb

ha ha try jungle sounds gold mixed by pendulum but with some of the greats on there other things to look out for are the drum and bass arena podcasts (DABA) subterra and juiceman are favourites

Inspect the chain as well, look for stiff links, like you said you haven't had problems before and its like new but your new setup may be more sensitive to stiff links perhaps. due to cahin wrap etc Its a newer tensioner etc but stiff links are an almost random occurance, it could be be that it happened when the chain was fitted?

I'm running try-all rage. seem loevly and comfy for me. And they did add loads of room to my cockpit, but as others say they are narrow ish (compared to my brisa's ), my wheel swaps and power lift moves did suffer but for rolling moves they are so much nicer

yeah just give it time to thaw would be good idea, some sunshine or lukewarm water will do it or put a cover over the bike to try and prevent it freezing in the first place? where do you keep it? shed/garage? try and keep it away from the cold if you can but then again how often does it freeze on you and how often will you want to ride those days?