Heatsink

For Rim and Tyre suggestions, have a look at this thread below: FAQ: 24" Wheels and Tyres Very useful thread because as you can see it was an evolving discussion over nearly 2 years as riders tried different combos, and is still updated today. Very useful to read so that you can avoid the expensive trial and error others have already had to go through! The last few posts in that thread mention some good tyres you could try. If you're wanting a more "street tyre" (Like a MTB version of a BMX tyre, with reduced puncture protection and hence around 1/2 the weight of the 24" versions of thicker DH tyres commonly used for 26" trials + fast rolling Tarmac tread with joined together knobs), then it's just a matter of finding one with enough pinch protection for your riding. Steve

I was riding my 24" yesterday evening and thinking along the same lines as you Paul about the improved flickability. I got used to my bike straight away, and noticed how much more flickable it was compared to my stock. I was already pivoting out of blunts smoothly when before I had habitually ridden fakie. Suddenly a whole range of moves are occuring to me that I could be trying, and that's what my trials needed because I'd got bored of just trying to get up obstacles 1/2 an inch higher. Felix Muecke popped me an email yesterday summarising his experiences these past few days he's been riding 24" rather than the old stock frame he sold off. He summed it up really well when he said his whole weekend could be described in one word - "Fun!" He said it had allowed him to experiment with so many new moves, and yet it still performs really well as a straight trials bike too! Looking forward to seeing photos of your improved spec Zoot Paul Steve

Stem wise, I would recommend finding one with similar geo, although it doesn't have to be exact because I don't think + or - 1cm will be noticable if you didn't know otherwise! In my opinion the majority of stems are silly prices, and there's plenty of scope to find yourself a very decent one and save a huge amount of money. I've got a Kore stem on my bike which were selling for £10-£15 in some places when I looked last. I found the writing on the side scrapes off with a plastic ruler for a more stealth look. Chances are you'll be running standard MTB bars with 25.4mm dia, so why not broaden your search to non trials-specific shops for the best deals. Steve

Here are some 24UK specs: ^ Caleb's (Blackpool, UK): "Against the Rocks" Frame: Heatsink 24UK Fork: Echo urban stock forks sprayed black Headset:Chris King, blue Stem: Easton Vice 90 mm by 15 deg rise. Bar: Azonic 2.5" risers cut to 25-26 inches long Cranks: 175 mm isis Middleburns with Leeson milled bash Chain: KMC Kool Rear mech: Shimano 105 Front Wheel: Hope xc green front hub on Sun Single Track black disc rim with DMR Moto Digger front tyre Rear Wheel: Chris King rear Hub, green, on Tioga DH rim with Maxxis maxx pro Minion 2.7" tyre. Front Brake: Hope mini 205 rotor front disc Rear Brake: HS33 + Koolstops Seat/post: Random seat post, Tioga MC Flite seat, v good and v cheap. Seat clamp: Random 34.9mm clamp BB: ?? Grips: ?? ^ Steve's, (Cambridge, UK): "Skate Park" Frame: Heatsink 24UK Fork: Pashley Stock forks, with Vee mounts moved down 1inch by Clive Leeson and resprayed black. Headset: Cane Creek C2 Headset, Black 1.1/8" Stem: Kore 80mm, black Bar: Azonic Single Wall, 2.5" rise Cranks: 175mm Middleburns with Spider and 'Ard Guard Chain: Sachs PC59 Rear tensioner: Heatsink prototype Pedals: DMR V12 Front Wheel: Hope Mono Lightweight hub, Atomlab aircorp rim RearWheel: DMR Revolver Singlespeed Hub, 16t ACS Claw freewheel, hub Atomlab aircorp rim (ground). Tioga 2.3" tyre, tube Kenda navegal 2.5 Stick-E compound Front brake: Avid SD7 lever, unbranded Vee arms + Heatsink CNCed backings and White pads. Rear Brake: HS33, Heatsink booster and Heatsink CNCed Magura backings + red pads Seat/post: FSA Seatpost SL280 XC Seatpost, 31.6mm dia in Black + Selle Italia Nitrox seat with padding removed Seat clamp: Brand X 34.9mm dia. BB: UN53, 68mm shell x 122.5mm axle Grips: Hoffman BMX mushroom pattern. ^ Sam's, (Barcelona, Spain): "Graphiti" Frame: 24UK Fork: BT F6 stock forks, disc only Headset: Chris king gold Stem: BT 90mm X 10º Bar: Raceface Diabolous 1.5" rise Cranks: Tensile Chain: KMC Kool Rear mech: Locked our drilled and modded tiagra Pedals: kaminagua platform (lush!!) Front Wheel: hope XC on DV rim, Digger tyre Rear Wheel: Chris king classic HD axle and fun bolts on DV rim (unground), Kenda navegal 2.5 Stick-E compound Front Brake: avid BB7 160mm (soooln to be 203 when the adaptor arrives) with XTR lever/cable Rear Brake: HS33 polished lever with gold bolt, Heatsink booster and koolstop pads (Heatsink blues on their way!) Seat/post: SDG I-Beam with gold bolt / SDG I-fly C Seat clamp: gold Hope with gold bolt BB: FSA platinum Grips: random foam grips ^ David's, (Neath, South Wales): "Custom Black Powder Coated" Frame: UK24 Powder coated black Fork: Fatty-R Headset: C2 Bar: Azonic double wall Stem: Hope ( carbon fiber stem stackers ) BB: Echo external Crankset: Middleburn RS7 Pro Trials Pedals: DMR V12 mags Chain: KMC cool Rear Wheel: Onza Ronnie on Hope Pro II Trials Front Wheel: Onza Reggie on Hope Pro II Tyres: Tioga Factory DH Rear brake: Black HS33 with Heatsink CNC Booster ( koxx bloxx ) Fronk brake: Hope Mini Pro Trials 160 Seat/Post: I - Beam Seat clamp: Hope Sqewers: Hope front, Fun bolts rear Gearing: custom 6 speed sram cogs, Sr suntour mech and gripshift with clarks cable set Forks: 24" frames take standard Stock trials forks, which have typically 400mm legs and 45mm rake. You can run a front disc, run Vees if you make some adapters (I'm looking at this at the moment), or you can get the bosses moved down if they're steel forks like the Pashleys, a service provided by for 10Ukpounds here in the UK by Clive Leeson. From looking at the builds so far, for Alu frames like the 24UK I think that Alu forks look best with their tubing in the same perspective as the frame. The Chromo Pashley forks on my bike, although convenient to get modified by Clive Leeson for us UK riders to run 24" Vees (no disc mount), don't match the frame look as well being skinnier. The BT disc only forks are an almost perfect match for the blue of the frame as you can see from Sam's bike. Best to get hold of forks with their steerers uncut because the trend is to run high grip positions via high riser bars and lots of stackers. Steve

Sorry if I seemed a bit forthright earlier - I didn't intend to! For further verification, the Echo Control CNC booster is also 46mm, as is the older and thinner version. I think there's naturally a tolerance on the relative positioning of the tapped holes for mass produced frames, and it could be out by as much as + or - 1mm depending on accuracy of manufacture. It doesn't cause a problem though because the booster sits so high in the assembly. For Vee adapters on the other hand that sit directly onto the mounts, because of this slight variation it was necessary for me to add a slot to one of the holes of my new design. I don't know if you can make the photo out, but the silver frame here shows an exact 46mm distance on the right side. Just realised that I let the booster slip on the other side whilts I was balancing it on there with another one! [attachmentid=3987] Definately 46mm, or in football parlance, I'm 110% sure it's 46mm. Steve P.S. All the best with your booster making

Seconded, with white decals

I'm currently working out what additional colours to go for in the future. Black and White are looking promising as popular colours to have in stock. If you're wanting an individual colour, then it can definately be done at no extra cost. It would be a question of placing a deposit, and waiting a few weeks for one of the frames in the next batch to come, with it requested in say red. Good suggestion about the Metallic paint The blue actually looks metallic close up - I'll definately be enquiring about a variety of finishes to see if there's something special that can be done. If the booster rubs against the tyre (it may be the underside of the arch I imagine) then try putting a washer between the booster and spacers. Raising the booster up a tad lifts it away from the tyre into space. Looking forward to seeing Sam's Blue and Gold colour combo! Steve

It's actuallly 46mm, although 45mm is often wrongly quoted: Hope that helps to clear it up once and for all! Steve

The Black frame is a custom finished 24UK for a UK rider that I picked up from the Powder Coaters this evening. It's being sent out next day delivery so will be ready to be built up tomorrow It's a 24UK frame with the blue paint stripped off and a super robust black powder coat applied. Cost £40 more to have done, but the black with alternative decals could become a future alternative. I'm also wondering how white would look too with black decals. I got some sample stickers made to try some new ideas, and I'm still pondering whether to stick with the"Heatsink" decal on the downtube or change it for the decal below in an enlarged version (currently on chainstays): [attachmentid=3950] Steve

What do you think of this? [attachmentid=3948] Steve

Don't forget that the bar and stem combo also has an effect on the overall bike geometry. You connect with the frame at two points of course, the pedals and handlebars. Be sure to make a note on frame + bar/stem combos that put your body in a good position. Steve EDIT: I'm looking forward to seeing a Iolo mod bike - Should be sweet!

Fantastic build and photos too! I'd say it looks better than my 24UK. :$ All the components are an excellent choice, and the colours go together better than my smattering of red. The extra money you've spent on the build has really added that touch of class! Those forks work really well, and the disc on the front looks the business Nice to be able to pick and choose whatever 26" fork by running a disc. This has got to be a perfect example for rider's looking for inspiration on how to build one of these beauties up Steve

I'd say that the perceived effect of difference in wheel size is greater than this singlespeed issue. I'd much prefer an orgnisation to listen to the people it serves rather than being solely dictorial in the development of a sport. In terms of clarity and simplicity, perceived level playing surface for all, then there's a good arguement for them to stick to the current classifications of Mod and stock. Nothing wrong with that. What I'd argue as ideal is an organisation responding publically to issues with existing rules, and suggestions for new ones. If they can demonstrate a justifiable reason for keeping or changing rules, then people will respect the whole framework comps are held in. It appears that at the moment there is some work to do here. Is it really the case that Japan have total control over rules being implimented in the UK, and there is no scope for amendments to be readily made. Sounds crazy! I stick behind my point that the power of the governing bodies is pivotal in the development of a sport. Trials could grow and grow, but if the people setting comp rules are distanced from the events, and there is no 2 way communication, then the sport can be held back. Nothing like a good discussion Steve

What do the club use the money for? If there is a healthy cash mountain in the club accounts could it be dipped into to reduce entry fees to less than £20 for the next event? Just playing devils advocate on this one. Complaining wise, I'd say that generally we Brits are quite reserved at coming forward. Any company/organisation should treat all complaints with respect and harness any feedback they get to improve things. If only NTL had better customer service - through my dissappointment with them, and dissappointment with their complaints proceedures, they have lost a fair few customers I'd say, since I always like sharing my stories with others about them! Nice point about the singlespeed tensioners Chris! I plead not guilty about having an invested interest in the matter though! I seriously have always thought the 6 working gear rule is out of touch with most riders. If I was thinking about entering comps it would be annoying having to get a set-up that met the criteria, only to then only use the one gear. Buying a shifter, getting the cable sorted etc could be £20 spent, not to mention the time wasted. Also it's possible to run a singlespeed type arm and use a floating roller/sprocket so that various chainlines can be used. It sounds like the rule is a farce already then, with it being regularily infringed! Silly that Andrei should be disqualified at the Brits for running singlespeed whilst it's allowed to zip tie up your mech achieving the same sort of single speed set-up. I would think that not having local power to keep rules relevant and fully watertight is the sort of thing that can hold back emerging sports. Having clear, robust and respected rules is surely the key foundation for events like these. When a rule is becoming a hotbed of controversy then something should be done about it I reckon! Steve

The 6 working gears rule is outdated in my opinion and will no doubt be dropped in time. Can't see any justification for it - just an historical legacy that will be scrubbed out, albeit with a fair time lag, in the near future. You should be allowed to have as many gears as you like. I agree with Phil's arguments in this post too. I'd say that there's been some great feedback in this thread, and closing your eyes to it or angrily dismissing it isn't the way forward. There's a question up in the air about what happens to the money from entrance fees. Where does it go? Do events/organisations make the financial breakdown transparent? If the event is reliant on so many people giving up their time for free, then surely there is an onus on the organisers to show that any money made has been used appropriately and not siphoned off into someone's pocket off the backs of the volunteers. I'm not making accusations, just widening the discussion. It's great that events like these can be run due to commitment from volunteers, and it places responsibility on the organisers to conduct everything appropriately, which I'm sure they've done Steve P.S. I've used up my controversal post limit now!

When I was living in France I ate, Limpets, periwinkles, snails, kangaroo and of course frog's legs. It was all alright thouh. The French eat almost everything, all the tasteless stuff, and just smother it in the right sauce. I remember the limpets having a sand still in them. Crunchy! That dried dog is a sight I won't forget in a hurry Steve

Rather worrying that! My site was and still is with Digital Crocus, and the password was indeed correct at the time they had those security issues. Steve

Thanks for those suggestions! It looks like there is a good range of similar tyres with this sort of streety tread. I've long thought that the tyres we tend to use for street trials should be more like this "joined blocks" style, both for smoother running and improved durability since the blocks are connnected. The Tioga Comp X (CRC £13.99) looks a good tyre, 24" x 2.1" - Is 2.1" wide enough though? The Holy Roller (CRC £17.99) is available on CRC in 24" x 2.4" 60a, but this spec isn't listed on the Maxxis site, 1.85 is the widest they give. In summary, for £5 more the 24 x 2.4" Holy Roller gives a slightly wider tyre and denser knob pattern (Oooer) compared to the Tioga Comp X. The weight savings are good news too. Comparing a Down hill tyre with one of these street ones, you could halving the weight of your tyres! That means saving around 600g of rolling mass (DH = 1200g, Street = 600g) That's the weight of a typical 24" rim that you could save both front and rear, 1.2kg on the whole bike! Because of the mass saved being at the extremity of the rolling wheels, it will also mean a more responsive drivetrain with less rotational inertia to get started. As long as the puncture resistance is adequate then you're laughing with your smoother running, more responsive, lighter (1/2 the weight) and cheaper (1/2 the price) tyres Continuing on this theme, here are some coloured options for a 24" street tyre from my local bike shop, www.billys.co.uk: [attachmentid=3763] ^ Halo Twin Rail, 24" x 2.2", 715g, Black/Green/Pink Also, this is the cheapest tyre I've seen of this ilk (from Billys again): [attachmentid=3764] ^ Maxxis Maxx Daddy, 24" x 1.85", 614g, £8.99 (+postage, when it may end up the same price as a £13.99 Tioga Comp X from CRC) Riders are already asking me what I'd recommend to build up a 24UK, so I'm trying to catch up with you guys. Rim wise, I've been thinking that I'd recommend 3 types, and it comes down to colours really! DMR Dee Vee (CRC £24.99, 642g, 32mm wide) = Silver Sun Rhyno Lite (CRC £31.95, 565g, 29.2mm wide) = Black Halo SAS (Billys £39.99 (+ postage), 720g, 36mm wide) = Gold (if you must!) Apart from the colour, I can't see any justification in buying the Halo SAS. Including postage (say £5) I can't see that there's £15 worth of extra value there, and the additional weight and width aren't useful. Also, keeping it simple again, maybe it makes sense to only buy what CRC have in stock since other shops like Bikedock charge around £6-7 postage per rim, and also don't deliver as quickly! Wiggle have a good range, but as a large shop it's a bit frustrating you can't ring them up to check postage or parts details. You have to email and they aim to reply in 3-4 days. What do you all think of this tyre and rim thinking?

Nice vid! Always inspiring to see a large variety of moves. Reminds me of all the riding I need to catch up with! Great to see the brakes working so sweetly. Them running silent certainly enhances the smoothness of it all Steve

Be careful the regular morning JD doesn't make you a George Best (post footballing career) instead of a rock star though!

I've got a frame due to be powder coated black in the next few days. Around the Cambridge area prices seem steeper than elsewhere, and it's costing 40 UKpounds. Have a look in the yellow pages (in the UK www.yell.com) and see what you can find under Powder Coaters. The finish is more robust than normal paint and yet often cheaper because it's less labour intensive - One coat is the equivalent of several coats of paint after each other. Steve

If I have time, also some granary toast with Marmite

Seriously one of the best days of my life Tom! After the day I got married and the day Callum was born obviously. You'll love it

4 weetabix, or 1/2 shreddies, 1/2 weetabix. Porridge was my preferred breakfast for a while, but I was always hungry afterwards Steve

Digital crocus is down again This means my website is also down I was looking forward to seeing those photos! Fingers crossed everything will be working again soon and I can check them out