Heatsink

I've met Joe He's a cracking chap and the internet doesn't do him justice. Great rider, top laugh. Share the love! When I met him first in Spalding he was just outing his brand new PX, how many years ago was that, and how many bikes have you had since Joe! I did catch up with him again in Cambridge recently, see you this weekend in Cambridge again Steve

Hi, I usually don't post in threads about brake pads, but I couldn't let this one from Spacemunkee go unresponded too! Naturally I'd like to clear up some things before they become accepted as word All my pads are definately out of testing! Previous experiments with compounds were done with involvement of many riders on the forum so was more public than for other pads. I now stick with two different Heatsink compounds, one for the plastic backings and one for CNCed alu backings. This is due to some discoveries I made about the differences on the braking system of running the flexible and more rigid backings. Since I first made a pair of pads over 2 years ago I've never stopped asking the question of whether my pads could be improved. It's been a passion of mine and I spent alot of time and money just getting started including the period where I was effectively a charity offering riders £1 each for their backings coupled with an extra low price, as I initially hand cut pads. It was just the buzz of doing something useful for riders which kept me going during this time before I made the financial commitment to getting some proper mould tooling made. When you're considering brake pad design for performance, it's easy to focus mainly on the effect of the brake compound being used and weigh up alternatives of compound/hardness/geometry. Over time my understanding of all aspects of what makes the whole brake pad a success has gradually been improved. Some of these aspects requiring attention off the top of my head include; frictional grip, abrasive wear life, the pad geometry for a good fit into the backing, strength of bond between the two parts, factors affecting the mechanical robustness of the backing. The whole glueing process involves more than you may expect and is one area where I have made huge improvements overtime to reach where I am now. For an excellent bond it's important to get the optimum selection of substance and method of application for degreaser and adhesive. I had a break through recently in understanding why some pads had worn quicker than expected, and the degreasing method has been improved radically at the expense of more labour time, to ensure that the pad is sufficiently degreased for a strong adhesive bond but not over exposed which has a softening and weakening effect. This is to compliment the range of pads I sell by adding a top of the range option for riders wanting arguably the very best set-up money can buy. People love the green coust compound but there was definately room for improvement on their own version of plastic backing with the o-ring held tentatively in place with a dab of superglue. I bought a pair to try and the o-ring came away the first time I removed the pad from the magura slave after pushing it onto the slave to see how it held just a second later. I think that I've answered a real rider demand by marrying up the 3 backing types I use, 2 of which are my CNCed backings, with the admired Coust material. Talking historically, having satisfied my intial goal of offering a better value (performance/cost) magura pad to riders (the blue pads in plastic powerpad backings), I then added the pimpy and more rigid CNCed backed pads complimented with the red pads as the higher up pad in the range. The Coust pads in all their versions (powerpad backings/ CNCed magura backings / CNCed Vee backings) then slot in at the top of the product range tree. They naturally have to cost more due to the additional price of buying the pads from the Coustellier family. Also there is time labour involved manually cutting the pads. Please don't forget that in the very rare case of any problems with Heatsink pads, replacements are sent out with no quibble. I want all riders to be 100% happy with my pads! Steve

I'll be there That gives me time to complete the build of my silver 24UK

I've just built up a new bike and put some of my blue pads on with a fresh grind..... I can't remember my brake being this loud before. Just lightly dragging the brake it sounds like a pack of seals yelping! A loud brake inspires confidence but annoys your neighbours! Steve

Nitromors It won't cause any damage to your threads. I've used parcel tape to mask painted areas before + taking care not to apply big globs near the edge of this or it seeps underneath. Pay particular attention to the hazards of Nitromors. Preparation is everything, pick up some gloves and prepare a good working area. I'd advise against stripping the frame on the bare lawn. I've got paint flakes everywhere now! I should have put down some card first so I could tidy the paint away easily. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....st&p=953019 ^ The photos are of a frame which was only clear laquered, much easier than the painted frame I stripped more recently where getting rid of the last 5% of paint in difficult to reach areas took as long as the rest of the paint! Also, make sure you have plenty of time because it takes a few coats and lots of elbow grease. Steve

Hi, I hope you find a way to eliminate the black gunk that's reducing the grip of your pads. I never did myself back in the days before Heatsink Pads. The continual need to clean the smooth rims was eliminated once I started grinding my rims. Replying to your message Mark, I've got to the bottom of this problem now. The way I was degreasing the earlier pads for glueing (including the free extra slim pads I sent you back in the day) meant some were exposed to the degreaser for a unnecessary long period and that weakened them - it's powerful stuff! In the very rare instances that you have defective pads, my customer care is the same as always; simply get in touch via email and I'll replace the pads. I hope that this gives you peace of mind! Steve

What about: http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acatalog/M...epair_Kits.html Also, available from RS Components: http://www.rswww.co.uk/ - Enter component code: 528-592 Steve

Some info on how to do it found on google: http://www.toolsnextday.ltd.uk/Helicoil_Ki...icoil_usage.htm The same place charges £25 for a kit (Part No. 35050, M5 x 0.8 Pitch). Worth shopping around! http://www.toolsnextday.ltd.uk/Helicoil_Ki...licoil_kits.htm Loads of places you can buy the kits from in the UK, just have a look on google. There are lots of these kits on Ebay I notice. Potential to save a bit of money there Check that the outer diameter that the holes will be drilled/tapped out to is not going to leave an unreasonably thin outer wall. Helicoils are stronger than the original holes tapped into the Alu. From stripped thread to better than it was originally - Result! Steve

Hi, Just to let you know that the 24UK frames are available again and in more colours this time: Also we've now got matching 24UK forks, steel with Vee mounts in the correct place and disc mount too. Some black forks available now. Also available very shortly to perfectly match the frame colours. All info on my website: www.heatsinkbikes.com Steve

Hi there! The 20" frames will be out in a few weeks too and the geo and all up close details will be unveiled at that time (Around 15th August). I'll only be getting a small number in to start with since I've just brought over a large order of the 24UK frames so that's put a blip on the finances for a period. So there's some fresh news on the 24" front: The new batch of 24UK frames will be available from midday tomorrow (Friday 21st July). Christmas has come early! It's a larger batch this time so I won't run out as quick this time. I've extended the colour range 4 fold. Riders can choose between black, white, blue and silver All the photos and and details on the 20", 24" and 26" frames will be posted up on my website asap, starting with the latest 24UK frame photos from tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for your interest, Steve

Hi there, I don't think you'll get any rider feedback since riders outside the UK have been the main buyers so far. I could be wrong though and some may have a TF account! All are standing up to some hard riding from my feedback so far Geo seems to be a safe, tried and tested set-up for modern trials. Similar to many of the most popular frames, but not radical so that it will put some off. Here's an exclusive for you: There's a new Heatsink 26" frame coming out in a few weeks which will be extra special with lots of features I've always wanted in a trials frame, and still at a competitive price. Keep your eyes peeled on my site for that! I'll make a better annoucement when this frame is ready so that it doesn't get missed off the radar a bit like before. Steve

Great photos. Ashton's the man

The site looks professional! It's clear that alot of work has gone into it, which is great because the whole trialsqueens idea deserves to be given respect Here come some tweak suggestions: 1. For the top links banner, I can't help wondering if it would improve clarity about where one link starts and another ends by growing the link banner it in both directions left and right. This would allow a larger space between seperate links (make this space larger than between words in a group so that each link is clearly seperated)...If that makes sense! 2. I couldn't find any riding photos easily linked to! I'm sure more content will come in time The world map with the alternative country selection is a great feature! Steve

Nice looking bikes! Have you tried SPD pedals for XCing? I love riding with mine but don't have much opportunity nowadays. Steve

£102! Plenty of equally good/better forks for much cheaper available from Tarty/Select. Steve

^ Felix Mueke's 24UK

Here's a shot of our cars. The Laguna is a 2.0L RT that has just returned today from its MOT. This cost just over 1/2 the price of the car to keep it motoring for another year! [attachmentid=5805] The red car is a Hyundai Matrix which with its high up riding position makes it easy to load Callum into the child seat, plus is great for long journies because it's so easy to drive and has plenty of coffee holders and fold out tables in the rear! Moving from a Fiesta to the Laguna saloon really feels like a step up in the world, despite the Laguna costing less than a Koxx stock frame!

Don't some riders use Surly hubs with bolt through axles for trials, combined with free-wheels. Should be decent I would have thought if you're not wanting to remove your wheel very frequently. Not just the preserve of DH riders! http://www.brixtoncycles.co.uk/singlespeed_stuff.html ^ Hubs

I thought it was a great vid! Loads of move variety. The intro was too long though at 26secs, you could have got away with 5 secs or so which would avoid riders fast forwarding the intro on repeat plays. Everything always looks smaller on vids too - those moves are decent! I recognise some of the Spalding locations from the vid and the size on some is enough to put me off! Steve

Me and Callum, my son who will be 2 in November [attachmentid=5756] Steve

I've a new batch on order at the moment, more info on my site about that. A great colour choice too in future From the ground-up, freshly designed 26" frame which will be unveiled in time. The final tensioner will have some CNCed cavities, so won't look such overkill!

I recently sold my 24UK frame onto a home where it will be used more, leaving me with no bike to ride! So for my much needed evening rides, I've transplanted the 24" components onto a 26" frame. Check out the brake adapters which I drew up and were excellently realised by Edd Potts,Dave85 on TF. Here are some photos: ^ A Base TA26 04 frame with the laquer and stickers removed + 24" wheels ^ The intention was to run Vees on the rear, so the adapter has got Vee mounts rather than 4 bolt ones. When running a 24" wheel in a 26" frame, space is tight for brake pads since the 26" Vee mounts are directly inline with the wheel rim, cutting down on the pad movement range. It turned out that it was easier to set-up and run a magura on these adapters. If I get a second version made then it will definately be a 4 bolt version. To attach the adapter the Vee bosses were unscrewed and the adapter bolted ontop. Those out riggers are spacers from my Heatsink CNCed booster and the white patches protecting the frame are cut from a milk carton and held in place with sellotape! The Vee booster is a quick and crudely made band saw cut jobbie that I rustled up, with the pretty and non-circular dimples dropped in using a tower drill. ^ Edd also produced for me this polished RB lever including his own improved TPA he makes, mounting position filed back to fit the Maggie body. I'm not currently running it because it's a little too long for the riser bars, but will be used on the top secret uber-pimp 26" frame I'll be building up in a few weeks time. ^ Heatsink Proto tensioner - The plan was to get a batch of these made. Maybe it will actually happen one day! Thanks again to Edd for putting the elbow grease in! The geo includes a 1040 wheelbase and a tasty 20mm BB drop! So it requires more effort to bunnyhop than my 24UK with the same components did, but I'm still having lots of fun riding it Steve

Very smart Nick! Sorry for the delay getting the booster to you - I've been unable to get to a PC for the past week. You should have it Tuesday this week. Have you worked out how to run a wide chain in the Rohloff tensioner? Any quick fixes would be gratefully received because I've got a spare one I'd like to ressurect for use with a KMC chain. Steve

The flaking of some of the early blue pads, and an even smaller number of more recently made blue pads would seem to be connected to the level of exposure to degreaser I use to prepare the pads for gluing. All blue pads are now prepared with the benefit of this experience to make sure they perform excellently for all! If anyone has any problems with Heatsink pads, please email so I can speedily put these right! I genuinely do make sure any issues are sorted out ok. All issues are targetted as top priority because it's important to me that all riders are satisfied with their Heatsink pads and products. This support is usually more than you'd expect to receive from larger companies because it was one of the things that I decided was important to differentiate HSB from the rest. I hope that there are plenty of riders out there who testify to the level of support I give to riders to make sure they're 100% satisfied Steve

Finally uploaded to Trials-Shack! http://www.trials-shack.co.uk/Heatsink/heatsink_vid.wmv Steve