Brisa

I got better I live in Belfast (adsolute hole for high risk insurance) and my mini 998cc cost me as a 17 year old with no pass plus or any of that (we can't do it until off 'R' plates which isn't for a year) for a stonking £562 a year. Do a wee search for footman james insurers. They do a mini specific section. Y'all mini owners should check it out, only think they ask is your a member of a mini club (£18 a year for me) you should be part of one anyway!

Pures are long, light and strong

Where these's a will, there's a way!

May be my 42mm koxx rim not liking the harder pads

If it has a warranty like most other king stuff, I think the thought in your head would be 'oh goody, a new bb!' Looks good, I was sceptical about buying a king hub but Im glad I did. May be the same with this!

Ali, my vee brake loved most pads apart from Koxx greens but my magura loved them. Strange! Jake, I have a vee on my control and I plan on digging it out this weekend for the first time in ages to 'attempt to ride' so you can have a bash on it and see what you think. I only changed over due to the maintainence factor. If i clip my cable it doesn't piss on my leg

Robs yokomo is a fudging bargain!

Super clean 04 control 1065. King, deore v/heatsink/xtr booster, avid mech.

Yea, a friends mini recently stopped working. Looked to be software related. Was sent back and recieved a nano in its place as the mini is no longer made.

Hey Dan, what model is it do you know? Good to know someone knows what it is!

Well I have just looked out my old RC car. I got it when I was about 13 so a good 6 years ago now! Its front wheel drive and front engined. Doesn't appear to have a mounting place for any sort of shock/spring array instead has little springs that push against the bottom of the chassis. I has had some poor threatment when I was younger and now Im trying to restore it back to life. Was just wondering if anyone knew the make or model of the chassis or full car. It was bought second hand so I didn't get any packaging or manual. I would love to know what it is so as when I order parts for it I will know what Im on about. The motor is a Koysho GX-12 and uses futaba servos if thats any help!

Have to agree with the Juicy, a few mates on DH bikes have them and the lever position is just truely amazing! Seem to have quite a bit pof power too. If I EVER have some spare cash then I will have one.

Not another one! Does everyone on this forum love being different?

Ah, didn't check the website about the price. It didn't state body only on the leaflet.

Nikon D50 from www.warehouseexpress.com is £399 according to the leaflet they sent me.

I gave the boiling water a go with no results. Oven worked! Cheers Janson!

Will give that a try tomorrow, cheers JT

Just wondering if there is any way I can ease the process of removing pad material from magura backings. Any liquids I can use to eat at the glue? Don't want to use brute force and ruin some nice new pads!

I see where your coming from but this close to christmas new pads is impossible at the minute. Too much money out the window this month. I am using a metal cutting disc if that helps, I seem to remember reading this is what was best. Always worked for me before. I tried one grind with old disc (worked backwards) and one with a spanking new one (not workie at all).

lol I understand the 47mm koxx rims are shit but even had an acceptable brake when I used one of them.

Well... I got a new wheel a while ago and since my brake has not worked. Its the old 42mm koxx rim, which I thought was supposed to keep a good grind? Maybe not. Well I went round everything trying to eliminate everyting I could possibly check. Changed the pads twice, from koxx greens to browns to heatsink reds. All to no avail. My brake is set up perfectly square, and I mean that... not some kid firing them on and hoping for the best. They hit PERFECT! Both pads at the same time! I am using a control booster and a water bleed. There is no mushyness at all in the lever. I am putting it down to the grind as its the only thing that changes the performance of the brake when changed. I usually just run the grinder round the rim and jobs done... brake super for a month or so but this isn't the case here. If i try it one way it locks up and makes a lovely sound going backwards and if done the other way it does nothing at all! I have heard people saying that grinding on top of a grind is bad, so I got out the sander and smoothed and made sure the bitch was flat before regrinding. What am I doing wrong? Is there a certain grinding pattern I should be following?

Newcastle, near that Tropicana outdoor swimming pool.

Here is my fav pic of me... because its the only one... Taken about a year ago Edited slightly because my arse was hanging out before

Are you running 32 or 36 hole hub on the rear? Echo's only come in 32 I believe... Also the width might be a problem. Most frames that can get away with running a d521 with a magura may well not fit the likes of a koxx/echo rim. I used the echo cnc on my mod and a few friends have them on stock. They grind well and seem to hold up quite well. Failing that you could never go wrong with an Alex DX32 which can be found in quite a lot of local bike shops.

John, you want me to call up after tech with a bb tool?