SamKidney

As per title and description really. How well does this rim hold a grind? Ive put mine on fresh today and it looks a little light allready, considering that it was a medium / harsh grind this morning. Might try regrinding with a thinner disc. Help appreciated.

Pads: TNN LGM Time used: 3 Days Rim used: Trialtech Sport 19" Grind: Yes Ceraminc: No Brake used: Magura Hs33, Echo CNC lever, Phluid Bled, Echo SL booster, v!z Clamps, Zoo Python 06 What is your opinion of a working brake: Needs to give me instant lock and hold no matter what I do, with a nice noise to let me know its working. No modulation needed How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Blow everything out of the water, better than both my Onza Limes and Citrus, Echo Blues and Monty X-Hydras. Review: No other wasy to describe these pads other than bloody amazing. I started using these on a dead grind and as expected they werent amazing. I whacked on a fresh grind (Medium/ deep) and they started to bed in. After about 10 mins they made such a loud noise!!! They locked up and gave me instant bite. This was in the wet too so I cant imagine what they will be like in the dry. I dont care what anyone says, these pads are the best in my eyes. Highly recommend these pads. Forget your smooth rim, whack on a grind and put these beauties on. You will NEVER look back

+1 to Ali. Disc is handy, and can be plenty powerfull if you get the right set up. Quiet too, although front Maggy can be quality too Im gonna be running one with some heatsinks soon

Capitals much? Dont if you want a quick validation mate. See your new to the forum. Welcome on mate

PANDA!! You sketchy f**ker haha. Its Sam K from the Doncaster ride on the 24th, ended up riding the Adamant instead of my Zoo all day

Il happily ride Sunday. Now Ive got my LGMs and a decent grind nothings stopping me!

Exactly. The quicker option is to remove the freewheel lockring and remove the grease from the internals. Replace with light oil

Opinions differ on this freewheel. I myself have used the Tensile 96 and was pretty good, however mine did skip often and the lockring would never stay tight over a ride. It then promptly shredded the internals. I went back to my OLD Tensile 60, which I happen to be using now, and never had a problem. I am moving to the Echo SL however in january due to the good things I have heard from many, but will be keeping my trusty Tensile as a spare Buy the Tensile 60, BUT LET IT BED IN!! otherwise you'l ruin it.

Theres nothing wrong with Tensile 60 freewheels at all. Provided you let them bed in (or remove the grease and use light oil on the pawls and springs like me) you will have a reliable, trust worthy freewheel. 60 ep is good enough for anyone. Mine has lasted me 3 years now, never been serviced and has never let me down. Technique also has an affect on how long your freewheel will last. Most people I know that go through freewheels are those that tend to 'stamp' on the pedals to gap ect. use a smooth but powerfull action on the pedals and a preload of the rear tyre to get my moves done. Smoothness is the key to anything lasting any length of time

What about DMR V12's ? Same as the V8 just a bigger platform, no hump, very grippy and long lasting My choice of pedal. I changed to them when I got fed up of the Pain my V8's gave me

What bike do you ride; Zoo! Python 06 (Hopefully moving to 26" GU soon) How long have you been riding: Properly, 2 years Favourite trick; static to wheel swap up stuff Best riding spot: Hull, Doncaster, Leeds, Scunthorpe Sponsors; I wish How often you ride: I try to ride every day.

Have had a good ride in Doncaster today and have come home feeling all christmasy Just thought I'd wish everyone on the Forum a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Hope are by far the best I find, if you have the money. Others I have found to work great are: Quad QH5 Magura Louise Magura Marta and Shimano DLX There are cable alternatives too: Avid BB5/ BB7 And the random shimano caliper Im running on an Avid 185mm disc, which works great.

Allot Best pad ive ever used. Only took like 20 seconds to bed in too. Glad I took peoples advice, namely yours

Pretty sure the snail cams are smooth? Eg, no serated notches. Id take the snail cams off the hub, and using a thin file or hacksaw, put small grooves into it all the way around the curved section of the snail cam. The notches should stop the snail cam slipping. Or you could be lazy like me and buy some Echo TR cams with micro notches

LGMs of course Uber bite, uber hold and epic sound on a medium to harsh grind. They come in a pretty pimp alloy backing too Although it has to be said Heatsink Yellows were pretty epic in the time I rode them to bed them In for a mate, the world champ pads.

^^ +1 ^^

Yeah thats what my bodge looked like haha, hated it. Am gonna get a half link ordered at some point then

Haha, I very nearly did eat concrete when my chain pinged off. Had to jump over the bars Think I need a half link, Im sure the brake mounts on my Zoo are mounted a little high up

+1

Yeah that would work, I can see the Idea taking off with Stocks more than Mods though. Low profile mounts on a mod for the win really. Never liked spoke tensioners either haha, had to run one when I was waiting for my snail cams to arrive. Was forever bending it from missed sidehops ect.

By reading what youve said Id say there was air in the system. Have you re-bled the brake at all in the time you have had it? Id take the brake off, check all the fittings for tightness and then re-bleed the brake and try again. I cant see any other reason why Its doing this, Make sure your TPA is wound to its minimum setting when bleeding

Has always seemed to work for me, though you can use 2 cards instead to space out the slave if your wheel is buckled by said amount

Surely having the cylinder directly mounted to the frame would mean your wheel would have to be exactly in the right place? This set up wouldnt work on a mod due to the horizontal dropouts, where you need the fore and aft adjustablity with different chain lengths ect. . Would only work on stocks with vertical dropouts where the wheel is in a constant place. The only Mod I can think of that would work with this set up would be the Atomz Premier 20 with its vertical drop outs. Really good Idea though Mike, that I think should be employed on Stock frames with vertical dropouts