Water doesnt have as good of lubricating properties as oil, and can cause the piston to swell up as mentioned, but its a hit and miss thing. In one brake system it could work fine, in others it can cause trouble.
Now that i look at it, why do you need massive holes for the cylinder bolts? i guess to compensate for the lack of inwards/outwards adjustment?
The levers look uncomfortable too
I always thought motorcycles did it for less brake fade, as the braking force is separated between two disks?
I doubt braking force is an issue on a motorcycle, as surely the limiting factor would be traction?
No, just stop being a monkey and reeming them up. Use the longest bolts you can find, a little bit of grease of the threads, and just 'nip' them up till the brake cylinders don't move, simple as!
My only criticism is your website layout. It'd make navigation much easier if you had a standard navigation bar across the top or left side, which was exactly the same amongst all pages.
Best advice ever
On a serious note dan, you might get away with using an adjustable spanner, and gently bend the disk tab back in. It properly wont be perfect, but you cant make it any worse
If the disk rubs the pads, i.e the disk isnt true to the caliper, it isnt an issue with the dish of the wheel.
Unless he's unfortunite enough to have a wheel thats not dished correctly, and brake mount that needs to be re-surfaced Dam, snaked by dan
in that case, id be tempted to drill and tap it completely through. i run an stock x-ray where the snail cam bolt hole goes completely through the frame, and its been fine for the last year, and i run some pretty high chain tension!