bing

+1. stripping of threads is caused by operator error/gashness. you can't blame shite Chinese monkey shit ally if you have swung on the Allen key like a numpty.

yeah, I tried to tell him that, got the same reaction

if it was leaking, it would take a lot less than a week with regular riding. you sure it's not a piston moving in the clamps? just wondering like even when mine leaked(loose crossover) it took about 27 seconds for the lever to come right back to the bar, with water leaking straight onto my rim

it was probably a typo, he is a daft old git like me

+1. basic physics should tell you that braking force transmitted straight to a rim/tyre should be better than a braking force transmitted through the spokes and hub. think about it a little bit. a Magura set up right with a good grind should be better than a disk, even with a 203mm rotor. I've ridden both, and Magura is miles better. simple as. on both 20 and 26

if your disk is contaminated, there's a fair chance the pads are too, just get a new set, for the cost they are its easier than trying to make them work. as for the Halfords stuff, never used it, so I wouldn't know. I got some off my mate who runs a bike shop

a few of us are riding the glen 2mora, looking at a half 10/11 meet up, me, dan cox and the seymours. get yer sens down, or up depending on where you are

get yourself to congleton on the 17th, it's a Friday, me and dez will be riding town I would have thought. there is some brake less stuff as well

get proper bike disk brake cleaner, not brake/clutch cleaner from a car shop. as for loosening the bolts, spray em with penetrating and release spray, and tap the bit in with a hammer. if they still won't release, GENTLY warm the disk flange on the hub up with a blow lamp, at the same time undoing the screws. the ally on the hub will expand faster than the steel bolt

for added cleanliness, soak it in brake cleaner and set it on fire, this will burn any shite off the disc surface. then get a peice of wet n dry, prob about 400 grit, put it on a flat surface and lightly rub the disk on it. helps the bedding in process

I had a look at the one which was at radfest, when i still had my fourplay. looked very short, and by god was it heavy.

I used to play in my younger days, got f**ked knees now though. and I support Leeds united

dunno man, I saw one of my best mate try and kill himself after a shite talking physcologist prescribed him anti depressants, they aren't a good thing. at the time my old man went to the unit where he was a 'resident' and asked him if he really wanted to end it all. my mate said no, my old man made him throw all the pills away and go cold turkey. 2 days later they let him out and he credits my old man to this this day for saving him. proof in my mind that tablets solved f**k all, when all he needed was a good old talking to and telling it like it is. by the way my mate is father to 3 young boys, and came to this situation by way of a failed marriage. it was probably the most disturbing thing I've ever come across

to bongo, I know what it feels like to be high sided, the f**ker just lets go without any warning, you were lucky, after my 60mph one, my collarbone was broke that badly I was sick on the track from the pain. and ruined a perfectly good axo helmet

I run trialtech 175's on my mod, after having trialtech 165's on my inspired, and I can say the difference is huge. can get loads more power out of it now. bike feels loads better to ride and is easier to get up stuff. admittedly up to pedal is more difficult cos you are closer to stuff, and 10mm IS noticeable. but that's just my view, from a novice level comp rider

40 days and 40 nights

was riding hull on Saturday with a few lads, did my biggest 180 drop off I've ever done and 180'd down a flight of 4 steps to floor, in front of a sizeable crowd of people

just done it

moonraker

no they don't, we'll mine doesn't anyway. bite and hold is amazing, I run a 180mm rotor on mine, and the lever shape is perfect for me. better than any hope I've had. as I said before, proper brick wall brakes

I might have a ride out, scabby is an hour up the road from me

avid fr5 lever, with bb5 calliper, and linear slick cable. ultimate cable brick wall brakes. for added effect use a 203 rotor

it's called being in equilibrium with the object that's moving.

doh!!! planet even. stupid iPhone autocorrect

ghost amr + in small?