FamilyBiker

i cant hop up static more than 20cm,but even then i have the feeling i should hit my hip against the bars to accelerate the bars upwards. no,i am not actually hitting it,but thats kind of the movement the technique wants frm me to work

i´m sure watching that till the end causes psychosis or something haha

^

did you have a spare frame or? that crossover pipe scares me.

ban g! lol

we are getting invaded by the it seems lol

aha-haaaa! you sir made my day

yay!

that sucks,brad.if the guy was living round the corner from me i´d be sowing up at his place and give him a good smack with the frame... but,and dont take it as an offence,the first post of this topic looks kind of funny now with that avatar...

no,thats the other place...

this! it even would be enough to have a simple,workbench mounted one like the early marinos were welded on. was basically a steel plate bolted to the table with a rotating arm that has a scala to adjust its angle to take tha headtube. and 2 old dropouts with a rear axle to hold the rear triangle in place,and some kind ob misused headset mounting press to hold the bb shell edit: basically like this,later there was a "table mount" version of it

to be honest i see a point in the foot making less travel with more force giving the feel of a shorter run up,as you have a certain "kick-travel" youre used to and working with,at least in the final punch.same movement in the foot with a bit more effort shoots you up steeper when closer to an object on a 165 than a 175 mm crank. but technically and physically(edit:due to the fact you have to put in more power to achieve the "same") thats not part of the gear ratio itself,i think thats what people are getting at here. but i see no point in posing,especially for a well known rider that should keep his image neutral,sorry

if you do that it only proves why you still have a queen and yep,to stay secure i used another smiley,one that shows i am joking and didnt mean it a bad way on topic:today someone told me not to express myself my own way,pretty annoying

depressive moods in a short form. can come out as an agressive form too,as this thread has proved since today

its not exactly precise as they mentioned the ropes not being burning linearly,but its an average 45mins. the water tank puzzle i´ve read a few years ago pointed me the right direction to be honest "22. You have a 3 and a 5 litre water container, each container has no markings except for that which gives you it's total volume. You also have a running tap. You must use the containers and the tap in such away as to exactly measure out 4 litres of water. How is this done?"

its getting autumn,folks.first depri´s just begun for some people i´d guess...

burn rope one from both,and rope two from one side,half an hour and rope 1 is gone. light the unburnt end of rope 2,burns 15 mins

thats huge(for me at least) respect!

good we have more than one match i´d say :wink2:

the fact it wasnt heat treated after welding. or just it being alu :wink2:

thought the same,all this effort put in the pic heaviest topic i´ve ever read,and its all in the wrong forum. interesting though.

great edit! one day i´ll come over there and fall down every single obstacle lol

...if youre not planning to found "stixbikes" :wink2: joke

i´d take at least a 34.9 for the top tube,a 38 for the downtube,for the cs and ss its common to use something between 12 and 21 mm(edit:or even tapered,better for the rear dropout join to fit those thingies of the dropouts that sit in the stays tubes),so youre pretty free in choice there.you could use higher diameter ones for the cs and ovalize them at the bb to gain space for the sprocket and tyre,and at the dropouts to,well to weld them on without having no welding surface at all.seat tubes hmmm,a 25,4 inner would be 26 outer dia,so its a thing of choice for the seat post dia,if you build seatless,its unimportant,but under 26 youl end up with less seatstay welds,making it weaker. thats so far what i can tell on the tubes,josh can give more precise info for sure

cant compare my hope to a king but it works pretty good. for the rim question,in my experience a wider rim reduces the risk of ripping the tyre off or pinching when landing weird,and gives the tyre a better shape to bounce good