FamilyBiker

soldered,wow.i wonder how long those survive. looks nice!

i just changed the bearings on my pro2evo trials hub,and even with the new bearing seals it runs smoother than any shimano hub in my other bikes,and i check my bearings quite often.for me its the best cassette hub ever. with trials hubs you meant fixed/frewheel hubs? i thought they run smoother,but the ffw dragging the chain gives the un-smooth feel?

didnt try the zee,but the price is very good for a 4-piston brake. if moneys a criterium for you theres the deore br-m596. does it for me on the front,with 180mm disc its awesome,i was surprised,because it only costs 40euro here.

strange,i stay logged in on three computer at the same time,even when i logged out. okay on my notebook and pc its having the same ip imo,but at work its the same...

really nice,but needs a chain :wink2:

thought that too,watching the railway clips he´s a pretty cool rider,it was just the edit that didnt do it for me. and the lack of a helmet...

if you have more overall reach on your bike due to a longer,maybe higher stem,it has more leverage to pull bigger moves like gaps. tends to be more comfortable on the rearwheel,too

never used facebook,never will be using it. for me its like loading your personality up...

^^this.

yeah,the chain stays put against the teeth. but thats marginal i have slack points from the chainwheel and sprocket wearing unevenly,thats my reason for a tensioner

give him a dh bike and some huge drops!!!

the falling cam was funny

:blink:what was my fault in this topic,it began with me accidently quoting you instead of craigjames...? edited any post i did it to mainly for spelling correction or adding informations,but oh well,another ruined thread with me involved. sorry,i´m out now,if someone has a problem with me in the future feel free to pm me. that´d be less kindergardenish... edit:see,i edited again,wrote maily instead of mainly

yeah,but its your opinion and not even linked to the topic as my posts where in general. have a nice day now,flipp. i´m not going to let someone insult me for giving input to a topic. if thinking things over again and coming to new conclusions makes someone an arsehole for you,thats sad.i´m not the kind of guy that deletes posts in which he was wrong,as others do.

is that aenerism or something? dont get what you mean. i´m going out riding now rather then having conversations like that,without any carbon on my bike. nothing will snap :wink2:

ha! now you wriggled ot of an explanation how your "again" was meant lol

got to say carbon isnt my pro genre :wink2: nah,it looked like,still see it when looking at the pic. was wrong,who cares haha edit:what do you mean,"again"?lol

i dont know who this is but yeah,some of you might take my posts content wrong because i´m using the words i think being the best description to what i wanna say,sometimes the english meaning´s different to that lol i meant on the pic theres something silver inside the clamped part of the bars,but the carbon part is overlapping it,i was wondering why it didnt snap at the edge of the silver thing... but as adam said,if theres no insert its strange it didnt snap on the stem clamp. maybe just the fact it has a bent shape is a stress riser

for alu ones it´d be strange,for this one its strange because the insert obviously snapped,too!

seems like the bars had an alu core or something like that,they broke at an uncommon area

i made the experience that soft grips made it even worse for me. you should aim for gloves that fit really tight(but not too much) as the wrinkling gloves provoke blisters,too

no no,more like a 74kingz or heatsink(i know its the same lol) but mounted to the chainstay and with 25g weight

that could´ve been costing the rest of your career. sad that happened,but lucky it seems you didnt hurt yourself bad edit:except for hematomes obviously

dcd didnt work as good haha. basically i took an old sawblade an some random plastic.drilled the sawblade,cut it to the lenght required,then filed the plastic thingy to hold the chain sidewards(right term?),then bolted it to the sawblade,which i heated and bent before to have the tension i wanted. you´d just have to ziptie it to the chainstay as you havent got a mount for it.

yeah,a precise machining would be the precondition. IS mounts are stronger because the frames and forks are IS,thats matching each other good. if they build pure postmount components(with bigger surfaces for the calipers to push/pull on,it´d be stronger imo. as said above the position of the mount would have to be changed to improve force flow,avoiding one of the caliper mounts to be put under the bigger stresses than the other...