niconj

He has other fail videos.

Just get over it already. You know that he has this intro. Just fast forward to the video content mute it and stop whining.

Which one?

Does this count as trials motivation?

Or get the Trialtech pads. Even better than EBC. But only for trials...

Need some help?

No it doesn't. Now you have to use a hex and a torx key.

trialsaddict.com

MT4 caliper leaking at the banjo bolt. I can slowly pull the brake lever to the handlebars. The bolt is tight and the brake hasn't gotten a hit. I went back to Saint 810 on the front as well. The Shigura was mighty powerful though, more so than with the Magura lever. I'd even say that it's up there with the Saints.

I have had various trials frames where things didn't really fit or were according to MTB standards (175mm rotor needed on an Echo frame, integrated headset loose in a Rockman frame, Gu frame with dropouts I had to file in order to fit the wheel etc.). I've had a 2012 4play and a 2015 console. No problems whatsoever with these. Very satisfied.

For trials? Here are the ones for the Zee.

Where does the money go to?

Gonna lose that bet.

At last! I always hated that white on black one. You could ask @Ali C for a collaboration. He seems to be going down the tutorial line now. "riding street trials is a truly liberating experience" -> me after getting a street trials bike.

As I said, I talked to a guy at Magura and he told me that whatever comes after the MT4 is only more adjustability ( I know that publicity talks about a different lever ratio of the MT6/7/8 levers). My conclusion: MT2 < MT4 = MT6 (toolless adjustment of lever reach and bite point) = MT8 (-20gr.) < MT5 = MT7 (toolless adjustment of lever reach and bite point) The problem I have with the MTs is that they rub! I can't stand any noise on my bikes. Yesterday I went for a long ride and only after a couple of 180s the rear brake started to rub again*. Then, whenever I did a track stand, there was that annoying squeaky sound the brakes make when slowly moving the wheel. I was so annoyed by this that I went back to my 810 Saints on the rear. On the front the brake performed OK. No rub whatsoever but as I switched back to my Saints on the rear, I had to do something about the front lever. So I took one of my many spare Saint 810 levers and married it to the MT4 caliper. I had done this with an MT7 caliper already and it was the most powerful brake ever** (if it weren't for the rubbing...). I haven't ridden this setup on the front yet but I assume that this Shigura will be more powerful than a normal MT4/6 but less powerful than the Saint 810. This is actually what I wanted as I bought the MT4s. The Saint on the front was just too much even with 180mm rotors. I wanted to try it on the rear (weight weenie?), but couldn't stand the noise. The bite point is the same on the front and rear. Normally the bite point of a 2 pot brake is harder than that of a 4 pot brake. My setup in short: Front: Shigura (Saint 810 lever + MT4/6 caliper + Jitsie pads) Rear: Saint 810 + Trialtech pads In the past I have noticed that the bite point of almost any Shimano brake moves out quite considerably when pulling the lever a couple of times in quick succession. The colder it is, the worse it gets. This has been discussed in length on our forum as well. The conclusion was that Shimano Oil (as well as Magura Oil) has a too low viscosity, especially in the cold. The solution is Putoline HPX R 2.5 which has a much higher viscosity*** and gets rid of bite point movement of Shimano brakes. It also makes bleeding the brake easier as bubbles can move faster in the tube. *Aligned perfectly the day before, rotor is 100% true and brake was tightened with the specified torque + Loctite 243 **Many people have reported this on our German MTB Forum. ***Putoline at -1°C has the same viscosity as Shimano oil at 20°C and many people have tested it on their MTBs without any heat issue either.

Lol! This must be the worst photoshop job I've seen in my life! The longer I look, the funnier it gets. And that E-Bike thing is an ugly motherf**ker as well.

Aren't the rails slippery or is there some special tape on them?

For me a stoppie is harder to do than a manual so it actually sounds more impressive.

Yesterday and todays riding in one edit. It's actually the first edit I have ever done. Very sketchy but oh well... I don't have anyone to film me so this is the best I can do. Riding is not the best though.

I put some Trialtech pads in my MT4 on the rear as I was impatient and wanted to know how well they perform. The haven't really bedded in yet (I didn't bother to do the 30km/h - 5km/h x 30 procedure) and they already perform reasonably well. The hold isn't quite there yet but bite is already great. edit: I put one layer of duct tape on the back of the pads and it's already knock-free. edit2: I have to say that the one finger (HC1) levers are way more comfortable than the Saint 810 ones.

Be it as it may, 5/10s grip very well, but don't last shit.

If the Sleuth slip earlier on a pedal than the Freerider, than they aren't as good. No matter the pedal design and whatnot. The picture shown above is only possible with holes in the sole. I had that happen to all of my 5/10s and it sucks. It happened a couple of times that I wanted to take off my foot in a sidewards motion and couldn't because it got stuck on a pedal pin. This is usually an indicator for me to get new shoes. These are my Freeriders with S1 sole after about 1/2 - 3/4 of a years use. During winter I was riding other shoes.

Cool. I was wondering if anyone else filmed.

Aren't there any more videos of this event? I cannot find any.

I have the Sleuth and the marathon sole doesn't grip as much as the S1.