PeterH

Does anyone have the older videos from Tarty's site, specifically Stan's Summer 2011, I always loved that one and wanted to show it to some newer riders as what style should be

Here's the previous video (where I look less great on the Meta, but also has just a tiny bit of bmx in at the end). I am indeed still at it, you can see my other videos on there as well, got my first higher BB 26" (blue Gu) a few years back and struggled with it bit did some big things. Its even harder for me on mod, but that is what I ride most these days, loved my long Koxx Kloud (that I bought back as a backup bike now) with 1020 wb and a low BB. Just got a new Jistie stock, still figuring it out, but its fun to ride many different bikes and feel the strengths and weaknesses of each.

Here's some old footage of me on a blue one, they came in other colors as well. I don't remember the BB being that high, because I struggle falling off the back on high BB bikes and it looks like I am not doing that here. I just remember the overall wheelbase being too long for me but I still managed to do decent stuff on it.

I don't know the exact numbers off hand, but feel like a Meta might fit this as well. You might be able to fine one in North America still, they were pretty darn solid.

Goofing around on a 26" again, this is one of the biggest rail lines I've ever done. Small move setup, but scary to commit to the final gap with that much drop after it. 327590082_580413130285748_6503894834539127551_n.mp4

Once again nice work Mark. I looked for an image to put in the original post and couldn't find one and you grab one from a shop just one state over from me. I don't think ruling out all CNC cranks is a hard and fast rule, depending on what size plate they were hogged out of they may be pretty good, but without extra info I would say forged is a better option. I had also thought about looking into trying to take out the sharp corners if I knew exactly which ones they broke at, but looking at the design the best that would do is buy a little time, not solve the problem at all. This is the kind of stuff I really like, it is the total intersection of what I do for a living and what I do for fun. I used to talk with an old mentor every Monday when he would ask if I broke any bike parts over the weekend and we would look at the fractures and learn what we could.

That is the info I was looking for, thank you Mark. And yeah, machining out sharp corners right there seems like a bad idea, darn I was hoping to have some fun with these but back to standard cranks it seems.

This is a shot in the dark, but I was gifted a set of the fancy Racing Line BB30 cranks a while back but warned that they were recalled because some of them broke. I'd like to give them a go, but want to be careful, does anyone know how and where they were breaking so I can keep an eye on them? Much appreciated.

That was really, really good. Love the precision with the tires on the rocks, and I know wobbly logs are 8937645789364857398 times harder than you made it look in the end there. Good work.

In the interest of picking an internet fight I will be contrarian. But I'll start out with your theoretical example is correct and so if you read my initial response and don't consider reality in there you make a solid point. That said please tell me how you would make such a bar. With the largest diameter at the center the butting naturally happens on the outer, drawn down portions, unless you want to start with the larger diameter and get some pretty fancy lathe work or some other way (perhaps chem milling with creative masking...). But it the world of making cheap trials parts I don't think anyone is going to do that. And I don't think a bar that failed right away would exist for long, even in our super low production niche. You are correct, the butting could be done in certain ways to make a bar more flexy or stiff at the same weight, but I would wager no one on this forum could tell a triple butted from a double butted bar by feel alone. And I'm not really trying to pick a fight, just bitter at myself for not being that thorough in my response to a question I judged at not having a ton of value and that's on me.

Its part of a special non engineering related process called "marketing" Also, so what? I could be double or triple or straight gauge or carbon or whatever. For a bar what matters the geo and the overall weight, I wouldn't get too worked up about the butting.

What paint is that???? I have an old Cannondale that changes colours in the sun a bit and its awesome, but didn't know you could just buy the paint.

Saw that yesterday, more good feebles than I have seen in a long time, and the luc-e grinds were spot on. Just the commitment to some of those tire rides, maybe a little more ballsy than Spaniards doing static hooks 9 ft in the air.

Wow, I like how some of those sections actually looked like trials.

All of the above. What I would do is first up order some new pads, you'll need them eventually anyways, but in the mean time go at the current ones and see what you can do. Isopropyl alcohol is my go to for this. Clean everything, the rotor, soak the pads in it, and with a q-tip get in the caliper a bit (the contamination had to come from somewhere, hopefully its not a slow leak from the pistons). Then I take a fine grit sandpaper and resurface the pads, then isoprop again. Wipe it all down with a clean cloth and do the bedding in by dragging them down a hill (Duluth should have you covered for hills) and dosing it with water. Ride it around for a bit and if you still have the "squeal" and lack of bit from contamination then go the next step and torch it. I get mine hot enough that they burn on their own when the torch is removed, to me that is any oil/fluid that got in there burning off. Then sand and isoprop again and repeat the above steps. If none of that works put the new pads in (and again hope for no small leak).

Are those the "Lenoski Pillars" behind the bike?

Once again another great vid, this might be my favorite of yours, such a good blend. The ~180 to slanted ledge down was outstanding. Because I can't just say good things, it is noted for someone living in The Great White North your little nosepics on the quarter could be a bit more "Canadian"

You still want one? I really don't need two and would be honored to work something out with a rider like you.

I have two of his signature Loosefers, such a great bike and his style was just great. LGM remains my favorite bike vid ever, no idea how many hundreds of times I have watched it. No offense meant about stealing the song I do it too as a nod to things and felt that one fit well. I wonder what kind of edit you would put out to Turn My Swag On from LGM...

I see so many good bmx lines on that campus, is that why you stole the middle song from Lets Get Mystical?

Couple stills cropped together of a nice gap

The rock tranny stuff was awesome. When it comes to "street trials" (or whatever) I much prefer seeing folks taking bmx moves to natural than taking trials bikes to bmx spots, that made me happy.

Lots of companies have made one offs for pros for years in other forms of biking so I almost see it as healthy that it happens for trials too. Sure we would all like more options to ride and all that, but the fact is we are such a small group it is what it is.

I am not familiar with that brand, but I have used 2.5 wt shock oil from Finish Line for years in my brakes and have found it to be dependable and not cause any problems. I don't know how it compares to the Jitsie or other performance trials fluids, but it seems a little bit more responsive than the stock Magura blood.

What is the overall length of the axle? I agree you need more spacers, so those washers work, snail cams would do the job, or look to Tarty or elsewhere to get "proper" axle spacers. https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/other_hub_spares/jitsie_hub_spacer_single/c596p12981.html?pos=714&search_params=YTo4OntzOjg6ImluX3N0b2NrIjtpOjA7czoxMjoiY2F0ZWdvcnlfaWRzIjthOjE6e2k6MDtzOjM6IjU5NiI7fXM6MTY6ImNhdGVnb3J5X3JlY3Vyc2UiO2I6MTtzOjg6ImtleXdvcmRzIjtzOjA6IiI7czo5OiJicmFuZF9pZHMiO047czo0OiJtb2RlIjtzOjM6ImFsbCI7czo0OiJzb3J0IjtzOjk6InByaWNlX2FzYyI7czoxMDoiY291bnRyeV9pZCI7czozOiIyMzEiO30%3D Or just buy a bit of aluminum tube and drill it out and cut to whatever length you need. You could also contact Kevin and he would be happy to tell you how you need a whole new bike, it will be the best ever and then 2 weeks later he'll have a new brand that is soooooo much better than the last one.