Ali C

aha since I was told it would cost nearly £200 to have my old camera looked at, I though I might as well save that money towards a nice new one. I have been reccomended by Fatmike the Sony DCR-HC19E, now this was a few months ago, shall I still get one in the january sales, or are there any better ones comming out I should be looking at? Does the sony shoot enough frames to allow nice smooth slow mo? as I reeally like slow mo:D Also, anyone know wheres best to get one from (cheapest, best service, customer care etc) if you help me I'll make lots of nice vids you you all

google for heatsink bikes

heatsinks baby!!! oohh yeah

I could say the same for most people who has posted here!!!! I like to listen to songs that have had thought put into them rather than just cooked up in 5 mins!

go on wiggle, go to truvativ bbs and look for the giga pipe team dh bb, that comes in 128mm axle

I cant stand having earphones on when riding, so I dont listen to music, but when I am at home I have thousands of tracks to listen too. My fave are: Radiohead Coldplay Arcade fire Muse Moby super furry animals Blur Supergrass queen the flaming lips the avalanches the eels The doves the cardigans badly drawn boy modest mouse well you get the idea, those are only a few of my faves

narr its all right as long as we dont clog the thread add me to msn about details and so on alastairclarkson@hotmail.com

some nice easy steps 1)prepare your bits, fill your syringe, make sure the barbs are all on. It also helps to have a tube on the other end of the system to catch the excess fluid (I think the kit comes with the tube) also undo your tpa, but its not so important if you forget. 2) undo the bolt on the slave cylinder (where the pads are) 3) screw the syringe barbe in same hole (8mm spanner needed for the barbs) 4)undo bleed nipple at lever (3mm allen key usually) 5) screw in other pipe (to catch excess fluid, cut up an old milk carton to catch the fluid, get an old spoke and force it though the tub and make it into a hook to put on your bars, keeps a hand free) 6)press syringe untill no bubbles are comming out of the overflow pipe, dont use all the fluid though, leave about a cm in the bottom of the syringe) 7)take out overflow pipe and put the 3mm bolt back in 8) pump the lever, this will force out any remaining air into the syrince (why you left a cm in it, also if you forgot to undo the tpa before you started, now is a good time to do it, it will just suck up fluid from the syringe) 9) remove syring and using a 5mm allen key put bolt back in The brake should be perfectly bled now, but if it isnt, put the syringe in the lever and pump the lever again, air rises so it will make sure there is no air in at all! no excuses now lads

22 psi front and rear for me

yeah, 5 weeks without riding now, I am begining to forget how to ride, I remember somthing aboutpedals and a chain to go forwards, but I cant remember where to put my hands

at the moment a big fat 0!! when I have a working bike maybe between 2-10 a week

I love my Marta!!!

I'll try and get both and maybe do a review on each after using them for a while. This is only if I can get the surly for free or next to nothing (they sometimes let me have parts for free at my shop) I am deffo gonna get the rolhoff though.

stick with your vees!! just get some heatsink pads and possibly grind your rim if you want more power....the brake will be just as good as a maggie, but you will save a lot of money! if you do get a maggie, please please get an 04 model lever, the 05 ones really are the biggest pile of tripe ever to come from germany!

sigh whats your idea of a decent brake? and if you know of one other than a vee or maggie than please tell us. I presume you have a maggie and are reffering that to the decent brake comment? Pretty much all trials riders have maggies (vees are also bloody good!). I am yet to try maggie or vee that works straight out of the box without mods, so the next logical step is to get decent pads. To make these pads work even better, a grind really makes the brake work. I dare you to go and ride a nice muddy comp (or any comp for that matter) with a smooth rim, I can guarentee you the guys with grinds will have better working brakes and get better results because of it. Please dont give out advice on things you havnt really properly used (presuming you havnt), grinds are the best thing you can do to your bike to make the brakes work. Tar is utter crap, and if you get your rims wet, it turns into grease, not somthing I would want to have on my rims. rant over As for the stanley grind, I did somthing simular years ago when I rode a mod, but I used a hacksaw to cut slots in., I remember it being ok in the dry, but it had nothing on a grind, they really are the thing to have

narr, I like to feel I know where to put my bodyweight it was just a crap brake!! completley silent and no bite or hold, even the £200 bmx's I build at work have better working brakes

the avid mech is a good brake BUT I find they dont last long, the dials com off, the arms snap and they are heavy. I went on my shops enduro testbike the other day, that had juicy 7s, they were pretty dam good, but they did have a 200mm rotor., the lever is amazing, but the return feel is a bit vague. I also dont like the way the hose goes into the caliper on the side with a 90degre connection, they are very vunerable to hits. I have to say my fave disks are maguras, they are simple, light, powerful and reliable. The hose goes directly in the top, so not much chance of hitting it and getting oil all over your pads and disk. They also take mineral oil which is good for the enviroment and it also means you only need one tub for both brakes. They also have most possiblitys of upgrading, xt or rb levers, different pads (like monty and plazmatic). You can normally find them on ebay for pretty cheap too

jeeeez! do you know how lucky you are getting all that! dont think all my pressies added together cost over £100

so when I can gap 9.3ft, sidehop 55" and tap 58" I will be the best in the world? No where near!! it takes more than just being able to go big to be the best.

no socks for me

hmm, toughy..... if its got to be a british rider, then either ben savage or ben slinger. Although akkers and ashton are mint street riders and can compete in master category at the worlds, so they get my vote too

I aint no bmxer, but when I had my bike thats what I ran....it was ok, still too hard for my liking though, I couldnt do rollback for shit. I guess I am too used to my nice easy trials gear which is mint for controling rollbacks. Also, why when I spent hundreds on brake parts to make sure they were decent they were crap? I had hulahoop chrome rims evolver brakes front and rear slic cables (tried nokon at one point!) tech 77 levers and plazmatic spanish fly pads It was still utter crap, I could barley skid! And yes my rims and pads were clean, I used muck off, a clean rag, even wore latex gloves to not get any fingerprints on the rims for gods sake!! thats probably the main reason why I quit bmx, I have no confidence if my brakes are crap.

I am almost deffo gonna get the Rolhoff actually, I jusst remembered that the shop I work at deals with them, so I can get them at trade price thanks for the advice though peeps

well, presuming the pitbull is a 1080, that means the wheelbase is only 15mm longer than the ashton, so downtube hits wont be any different really.

well, I hardly ever hit my downtube anyway, it more there cos I was bored and wanted to make somthing