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Everything posted by Krisboats
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We not allowed to give an opinion if it doesnt fit the same as yours then? Funny how the majority actually say their fatty's are 250g+ lighter than these Is that steerer tube just coincidentally black or is that carbon fibre too? Sod having a carbon steerer, may as well go with a bonded set of tuf guys I wouldnt spend so much on a pair of forks that are that heavy when theres cheaper lighter alternatives around. I personally wouldnt trust carbon forks really either.
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Skippying Or Pedal Hop And Sidehop
Krisboats replied to Louth Trials's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
Thats not what he said anyway, he said get parallel to the wall and hop sideways off it, there was no mention of swinging rear ends first or anything like that, he said if its a big drop land rear wheel first. Sidehop drop gaps are gonna be the next biggest thing -
Skippying Or Pedal Hop And Sidehop
Krisboats replied to Louth Trials's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
I met a weirdo once who called pedal hops skippy's. He kept going on about skippying off a wall and skippying over a gap, it was sooooo damn annoying. Their called pedal hops mate As has already been said have a look at trashzen, you'll be alright from there. -
Well from what i was reading on the website if you join the cycling club then your allowed to keep your bike in your room, i dont have any actual experience with the matter though so it might be better talking to either chris or andy (spacemunkee and Tank_Rider)
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More than likely wont get tar off unless its like industrial strength mr sheen, and i would imagine it'll get maggie oil off though i've never tried.... never been gormless enough to get it on my rim . EDIT: For soem reason i was under the belief this was for smooth rims, pledge works well on smooth rims, hose works well on grinds... dunno why i thought it was for smooth rims, i guess last night is taking its toll on me
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Hmmm i reckon that sounds like a fair old plan You going to anything during freshers week?
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Bad idea on a clean rim, white spirits will leave a film of crap and your brake might seem fine initially but it will soon become shite again because of the residue it leaves. Boumsongs right with the pledge, though any furniture polish will do. It cleans all the crap off and then leaves the rim completely clean and dry. I used to do it all the time with my smooth rim and plazmatics and it instantly brought them back up to an amazing level.
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Or a fudge bar
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Doesnt look too bad unless i'm missing something, next time use the bashplate, thats wha its there for
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Noz, we need to get together when you get down here, you got the pack about all the nights out and stuff? Shame your not coming down on the wednesday, foam party sounded about the best thing there and i've never been to one
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Tesco bags are made from polyurathene, maybe melt some of them and tell us what its like
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Something to do with the whole standing on the rim technique... or so i'm told. Andy's post explains it, and he learned from a certain person with tartish tendancies
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I know tell me about it, they must think we have that kind of money just lieing around in our pockets or soemthing
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Your local car garage should have hundreds of different sized circlips, head down and ask for one... it'll set you back about 15p
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Sorry just thought i'd point out the frames available on that site... i've never seen them before and they look great 26" version 1 * Wheelbase: 1070mm * Bottom Bracket Rise: 25mm * Bottom Bracket Shell: 68mm * Chain Stay Length: 375mm version 2 # Wheelbase: 1065mm # Chainstay Length: 375mm # Bottom Bracket Rise: 40mm # BB Shell: 68mm 20" Version 1 * Wheelbase: 1030mm * Bottom Bracket Rise: 60mm * Bottom Bracket Shell: 68mm * Chain Stay Length: 362mm Version 2 * Wheelbase: 1000mm * Bottom Bracket Rise: 55mm * ChainStay Length: 360mm * Bottom Bracket Shell: 68mm Look very nice, can't beleive i've never heard of them.
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Get the old paint off, nitromors or patience with sandpaper helps here. Use very fine wet and dry sandpaper to get a fine even surface on it. use brasso or autosol on it to make it shine, coat it in clear lacquer when done to preserve the finish... really is as easy as that. The nicer the finish with the fine wet and dry the more it'll shine.
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Where Did You Get Your Nickname/username?
Krisboats replied to Willsey's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
My name is kris but everyone calls me boats due to having large feet. One day i combined them both to save people asking what my real name is. Its usually free on every internet site i use too so its krisboats[@hotmail.com, on t-f, on steam, on myspace :$, on freewebs... everywhere really] -
Now this is what i like to hear Thanks very much for that post, i hadn't thought about the offset spoke holes having to be in the same place for each rim... i'd more than likely have over looked that and made a mess, so cheers. Thanks for the information College Boy, in that case i'm gonna order a rim and have a go at building it myself. Seeing as the tarty guys are going to be busy and i'll want the wheel doing pretty quickly i'll have to oook for local wheelbuilders anyway, so i may as well have a go at it myself first and then if it doesnt go exactly to plan i can take it to the wheelbuilders and its going to be alright anyway. Right then so let me get this straight, i need to: Align both rims with valves in the same place and offset holes in exactly the same places on each rimTape the rims togetherGo round the current rim slowly undoing the spokes a turn at a time the whole way round the wheelWhen the spokes are loose and flappy without anymore tension, transfer over the spokes from the old rim to the new one, for arguments and clarity of minds sake starting nearest the valve hole and all on the flange side nearest the new rimProceed to do the same with the opposite flange side of spokes, ultimately removing the old rim from the equation and leaving the new rim on loose flappy spokesProceed to tighten up the spokes on the new rim one turn at a time for each spoke, again starting at the valve holeOnce an average tension is applied begin to true up the wheelStand on the spoke crossing bits andy mentioned and re-trueContinure to do this until the rim stays true after being stood onGrind rim
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More than likely going to be getting exactly the same rim as the last one i had, so the spokes should be the fine... obviously if i get an echo 07 rim it'll be different. Would it be advisable then to send this one off to tartys then maybe practise building my own wheels up with a crappy old rim and hub? I just figured seeing as all i'm doing is fitting a new rim it might not be too hard to just switch the spokes over to matching holes on the new rim one at a time with the rims side by side and then just tension it up and true it. If i do go through with this you might need to have a bit of a phone call/msn talk with me andy about the whole standing on the rim idea.
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--> QUOTE(joe b @ Sep 21 2006, 10:46 PM) ←Just get Tarty to build it. Seriously, if you have had no experience building wheels or even seeing someone build a wheel, then i say leave it to the expert's (or expert a.k.a. The Tart ). You will have no problem's at all, so i'd say send a tenner and your hub/rim/spokes Tarty's way and you won't go far wrong from there . Cheers, Joe. But if i keep doing that surely i'll never learn for myself
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If anyone else is wondering about budget disc pads, the fibrax ones are just as bad as clarks No bite, lack of hold and a total waste of time.
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Right, its now time for me to get a new rear rim and unless a 2007 echo rear rim will fit in a t-rex with cnc'd backings and new pads and is significantly stronger than the 2006 version i shall be getting another ronnie rim. The main question is how hard will it be for me to build it up properly and to a stong standard? My hub is a hope Xc and i already have a ronnie rim built on there at the minute with sapim spokes from tartybikes. Will it really be as simple as switch the spokes over one at a time to the new rim and just tension it up properly or is there something special that my £10 buys when i pay to get rims laced onto hubs? If your wondering i've got a good amount of common sense and dont have any problems with any other mechanical jobs on my bike, headsets, bb's hub services are all fine. So what do you reckon? Order a rim off tarty and do it myself or send my hub off and get them to build it missing out on 2-3 days riding?
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Funny how my ronnies had somehwere in the region of 30 grinds, guess one of us could be smoother than the other hey
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Try a small spot of superglue on the end of your broken bolt, whack it back into place, let it dry, twist it out Make sure you dont put too much on because it'll squeeze out sideways and onto the threads which could cause the bolt to tick in there even further.
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If any of you have watched the film called Mercury Rising with bruce willis you'll know basically what autism is. The kid in that had problems with associating with things and other people, but was so smart he cracked a government encryption program, willis finds him after the kids rents were murdered to keep the code safe and willis has to protect him and re-veal the code encryption or something like that so no-ones after the kid anymore. Really good film, worth watching.
