Krisboats

you've got two clear choices... involve the law, or become the law (please note the second isn't likely to be leagl and could get you up shit creek a bit) If your gonna go with the physical retaliation approach do it yourself, otherwise he'd think that your too weak to fight for your self. If you got someone else to do him over, unless you said it was your mate he's not gonna know it was you so he will continue, if you say its your mate then he'll more than likely be more inclined to come after you when your friends isn't around. Do it yourself and he'll have doubts as to whether its worth bothering with you.... especially if you can give him a couple of back eyes and a fat lip in the process of him getting his usual kicks from bullying you. Yeah you might come off worse but if you can plant that seed of doubt in his mind he'll probably leave you alone. Bullys dont bully people who can bully back. Or next time just scream soo f**king loud... like a pure angry scream, think raging gorilla and there you go. Then just run at him and start battering your fists at him, jump on his back and punch his f**king head and back, kick him everything... just act like a rabid animal and pure attack him. It'll be so unexpected he'll shit himself and wont bother you again.

Okay i put this in the best of the internet thread but i think it would be more greatly appreciated if it had a thread of its own. Individual clip of the big-ass wave I want to think he rides out of it at the end but i'm unsure, what do you think?

My roof aerial gets about 10 channels at low quality and my indoor aerial that came free with a £50 tv gets all the major channels at medium quality... i'm thinking of sticking a digital tv aerial in the loft and using that though.

I agree, seems like a way of saying its "not a hoax but nobody could be bothered to document it so everyone left it for the vultures." Its either fake or someone made a cat shag a wolf .

I dont really think i have a fear, besides losing any relatives or family. I wouldn't want that to happen, but then at the same time i'm not scared of it because i know at some point it will happen, its a natural fact of life... i wouldn't say i fear it, i just dont want it to happen. I've never been that shit scared of something i've not been able to move... i'm too laid back. Spiders are fine, i've held a tarantula before and let it walk up my arm, i dont mind snakes, again i've held one. I'm not a great fan of heights... again not scared but i find i'm more cautious when theres a big drop, i tend to walk slower and take a real notice of where i'm walking when i'm on say the top of a cliff face. I dont have any phobia's... and i'm not kidding here, i cant think of a single thing i'm afraid of. Before someone says it if i was in a room with a tiger/lion/dragon/evil weasle i would be scared, its a natural instinct to be... but i wouldn't be afraid, if i die i die and if i manage to whip out a knife and kill the b*****d i will, won't be afraid though.

This bodge will leave you with an easily adjustable and robust method of getting your rear mech in exactly the place you want it. It provides a more reliable and easy to use way of adjusting the mech alignment and allows greater alignment than the traditional cable/spoke clamping bodge. Right then, first off you'll need your rear mech, a drill (with 5mm drill bit), a small screwdriver, M5 bolt (5mm allen stem bolt will be adequate) and a 5mm allen key. The theory: Basically all that happens is your putting a bigger bolt in to allow for a greater adjustment where the high/low adjustment screws are. The bolt will press against the small triangular tab effectively holding your mech in place. Note where the triangular tab is and be sure to keep it out of the way when drilling it later. Firstly we'll need to remove the high and low adjustment screws, so get the screwdriver and start undoing them. Then you need to remove the little black piece of plastic that surrounds them, again using the screwdriver, just pry the plastic out like so. Now this is out of the way you'll have a clear area to start the drill going into. Get your drill and 5mm drill bit and try and align it up fairly straight. You're going to need to drill all the way through the existing hole to allow you to cut a bigger thread into it with the bolt. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T DRILL THROUGH THE TRIANGULAR TAB OR THE SPRING! Right now we've got the hole the right size its time to cut a thread into it. If you have a thread cutter then you can use that but its easy enough to cut a thread into it using the bolt itself. You'll have to get some real force pressing onto the bolt though for the initial few threads. After the first few threads have been cut into the mech you wont have to press so hard, but the twisting will get increasingly harder. To ease this, back the bolt out and put a drop of oil into the hole and continue with the thread cutting, eventually you'll get the bolt all the way through. Its also sometimes easier if you make the entrance of the hole slightly bigger... this can be done by either using a 5.5/6mm drill bit and just drilling the entrance a bit wider, or by using the 5mm drill bit and wiggling it around in the hole a bit. Once the bolt is fully in spend a few minutes winding it in and loosening it off, dropping some oil in there every now and again to smoothen the threads off. After a few minutes the bolt will be fully twistable by hand should you need to adjust it mid-ride. And there you have it, you're left with an effective and highly adjustable single speed tensioner that looks alright and will have enough strength to properly tension your chain. Further Bodging Now if your skilled with an angle grinder you can grind off the tabs that used to be needed to make the mech slightly lighter and to make it look more streamlined. If you also remove the tensioning spring from the breakaway bolt area (known as locking the mech out) you can position the mech closer to the frame, removing the need for the first jockey wheel, with this jockey wheel gone it also allows you to run a wider chain, which is great for single speed users.

yes, i've done it before.. didn't come out too bad, i'd not hesitate to do it again.. especially if they were trying to rob my camcorder like last time. All i got was a bit of a swollen lip and a painful rib for a couple of days... got to keep the camera too

I dont know whether you meant a spoke tool or a cone spanner, but either way you wont need either... to fit a front disc you'll need allen keys and if you have the torx bolts you'll need one of the torx heads (usually a T25). Take the wheel out, fit the rotor to the hub, put the wheel back in... Attach the lever to the bars... i'm sure you'll be able to do that without me telling you how. Attach the caliper to the forks, and proceed with setting up and bedding in the brake correctly according to what brake you have.

Cheers to me more like it... its my bodge, i did it for him and many other local riders around here. Its by far the best and easiest bodge and if done correctly, will lead to a mech thats adjustable by hand within a matter of seconds.

I'm off to loughborough to do a ponsy art course

It was alright, the video quality was a bit poor... was it recorded on a digital camera or mobile phone? The clips were alright, but not really very varied. Drop-gap, sidehop, rail gap same as every other video that comes out lately. You look like your good riders though so keep at it and get a more varied videos coming out soon. oh yeah, congrats for doing the stepped drop gap thing that appears in one of the coust videos, especially on a mod... and in the rain

Have you got any recent computer games? Something along the lines of far cry or half life or something... there should be a directx9.0c installer on one of those, maybe it'll work.

I'm around 16 stone and have ground my rim well over 25 times now. Its dented everywhere and has only just started to get some tiny cracks on it.... I'm going to keep running this rim till its completely dead. I think you either messed up the build like pete said or just got a duff rim. I'm around 16 stone and have ground my rim well over 25 times now. Its dented everywhere and has only just started to get some tiny cracks on it.... I'm going to keep running this rim till its completely dead. I think you either messed up the build like pete said or just got a duff rim.

Theres one on the desk in front of me.. its a beast.. i havnt used the actual chain, just a single link from it and it looks much stronger than my KMC Kool chain its attached to. the pins bigger, the plates are bigger and it just looks generally more robust.

Get some nitromors, some autosol, a ventilation mask, some rubber gloves a drill with a polishing mop attachment fitted and this thread.

Theres sooo many stockers and logo's everywhere that i think it looks a bit messy. The actual bike looks alright though... lever blades look nice, as does the drilling pattern on the front rim. Get some stickers off it though

Well seeing as you keep sending me links to this topic over msn and your not quite grasping the fact that i'm not going i thought i'd write it here so incase you forget you can read it and remember that i'm currently already doing something else.

Take the skewer out and have a look at the thing the skewer goes through... a hollow tube. THATS THE AXLE. If its snapped you'll be able to see a crack inside it if you hold it up to the light, or you might even be able to pull one side of it out.

Nope, it is pretty easy. I've been 4 times to a dry ski slope and can quite successfully (i.e. almost everytime) pull off 360 method airs after hitting a take off. I find that trials has given me more of an understanding about the way my body moves and balances and as such i find things like skateboarding, surfing, snowboarding, rollerblading hell even microscootering are all averagely easy now compared to how i found them before i started riding. I picked up my friends skateboard the other week and within 10-15 minutes i could kickflip everytime... now i dont mean this in a big headed way, and i assure you i am getting to the point i'm trying to make, but when you have more of an understanding on how to move your body in the way that you need to to get something done... an understanding trials riding gives you, you appreciate how much skill and coordination is actually involved in doing something. The general public can't physically comprehend how much goes on in doing something and i quite often beleive a lot of the time when they see someone do something really huge they dont actually beleive they've just seen it and they carry on with what they are doing. There are very few people who can comprehend how much actually goes into doing something and i think the general public will never be able to fully understand what happens in trials. Sure they'll be amazed more by something more risky and life threatening than something smaller and more technical but until you're used to it everyone is the same.

Already been done, i think it was vario that did it... the disc rotor was basically bolted to the rim.... everyone decided it would be shit and that it would buckle too easily. I guess everyone was right as the thing was never released. Stock bikes will have 2.7 tyres and someone will have eventually figured out a way to stop pinch flats completely (i can hope so). There will be at least one echo component on everyones bikes... check now, i bet you've got one... its kind of scary when i thought about it last week. Wheels wont be built using spokes, we'll have gravitational generators that hold the rim in place and automatically correct the strength of the gravitational field to remove buckles as soon as we get them.

There's also the fact that 'technically' they'll have less reflections on them because they can only reflect whats directly in front of them, whereas a curved screen one manages to reflect a wider angle of reflectable stuff.

Onza have one, i have a 28 hole sealed onza hub and i've been running it fine for about a year and a half. I cant tell you any more about it though because mine came as a full wheel build from supercycles. If you give supercycles a ring though they should be able to point you in the right direction.

I can't beleive everyone has been paying £40 for the sony headphones. Amazon do them for £26.94 with free delivery. These are by far some of the best sounding headphones available and beat any other similar styled ones by other leading brands like panasonic (lacking bass), philips (constantly sounded tinny until the left earpiece broke after 2 weeks of use), and the ipod ones are atrocious... you'll have to really fiddle with your EQ settings on your ipod/similar unit before they sound remotely decent. Sony's all the way for me, by far the best sound and an amazing amount of bass on them. If you close your eyes its like standing in between a pair of top end hi-fi speakers

My wilkinsons does what i think is a 600ml bottle for £2 and a large bottle for £6.

A rubber mallet can't mess up your forks. I've always done it like that and so has everyone i know and i've never heard of a single problem from doing it.