CurtisRider

another vote for dx :ermm: i havent personally owned the surly or king versions and dont really intend too either, since the dx is capable enough B) basically the difference between a dx and a standard cog is the teeth are deeper from what i can see, as well as the cog being thicker than standard (only an ickle bit) so theres less chance of you folding it over (ive done it to normal cogs and seen others do it) and they seem to last ages......well mines a few years old and doesnt appear to have worn at all B) ooo and they are only like 3-4quid too so its not gonna lighten you wallet to much :D

espeacially since most people run the seats up anyway :ermm: so its the equivalent to havin a 16 with the seat down....

ah please make another 1, i really like your style :ermm: its great how you completely piss over all these new skool riders with their uber good stuff and thats a few years ago! although your monty was top of the line back then i guess o yeah and that manual along the high wall was ace-my mouth was wide open B)

whats actually wrong with an eno? i think pretty much everybody on here who owns 1 raves on about them i like mine lots :ermm:

fook me ali, i liked that lots, got any links to more recent vids of you? cos if you were that good then, your gotta be near god like now in my mind (Y)

his school is shit, so fat chance of that happening (Y)

middleburn cable oilers anybody had much experience with these? they seem to have had a pretty good review so far on chain reaction but thats only a few people i just fancied trying some on my v brakes, its not like i really have problems with how smooth they are(linear slicks kick arse) but i can imagine now the winters coming and with me riding more natural that i could do with something along those lines (Y) as they are the lazy option once fitted :o cheers, paul (N)

i havent looked, but sometimes they offer the option of a shorter 14inch, and a longer framed 16.....just check and see if you prefer a longer or shorter bike (Y) personally i prefer a slightly longer bike for jumping and street-more 'short' trials bike length (which is kinda long in jump frame scales) but in general 14 and short is the way to go for most (N)

if i remember rightly, terror-error regrinds his rims far too frequently, i.e. every week or so i think i remember him saying...hence the horrendous pad deteriation (Y)

yip can second that :D i had some rj red pad material and decided to make sum disc brake pads :P (i had some old spare backings from a worn set of pads) lets just say they were inf**kingcredible until i decided to heat the surface to flatten them a little........seemed a good idea at the time cos i couldnt find my file :angry: may have to make some more if i can find a suitable glue (Y) ooooo and wally if you can cut some of you old material out to fit proper backings, id advise it, i tried it with the rj red compound and it was impresive on both magura and v brake setups with a light worn grind (N) and they didnt wear out within seconds :o as for pad testing, if you ever have v brake backings then id help you, but im not a magura man so i cant really test them :P

i had a ceramic, twas pretty darn decent but was towards the end of its life (Y) but it was equal to a grind the ceramic on the base you are gettin is like new however, and from my experience of using it, it kicks bum bum :D its not uber loud and performs well in the wet, ceramic coatings are in effect like a grind in the way that the coating is kinda rough, like really fine sandpaper(im finding this hard to explain) and so thats part of the way it compares with a grind, its betetr to modulate too, as its more of a consistant surface dont forget to get a ceramic rubber (get a tile 1 from a diy store for a fiver, not an official mavic one at 20quid :D ) and thatll keep it fresh ^_^ dont grind it, if you dont like it ill take it off your hands :)

the mono should be cheaper...... may as well get a front disc hub, ready for if you ever upgrade (Y)

i run 15psi and im 13stone on my mod, never had a pinch............and 20psi in my stock, again never had a pinch(except once in the front a year ago after hittin a sharp metal edge full on) just learn to ride properly (Y)

surely his modification would place more stress on the axle rather than the shell?

juicy >_< they really are inf**kingcredible, i absolutely adore mine, ok i like it..... anyway its so powerful, smooth, well made and has plenty of control (modulation), and has the main bonus of a stupidly nice lever(the nicest ull ever feel) and the seven features a tpa esque adjuster which makes it more adjustable than any of the open brakes (Y)

yummy, thats just the style of bike im aiming for now (Y) and definately get ultimates, i feckin love mine-they piss over every brake out there :( EDIT: get some heatsink v pads if you arent gonna have a grind, or get some crv pads if you will eventually have a grind, infact crv pads all the way :)

i had 2 sets, both been ok, but others havent been so lucky.....basically they are snap happy :( howver they are the ebst feeling bars you can get, i really like the geo of them, its spot on (Y) they also have a good 5 year warranty so if you do bugger them, they will be replaced :)

course they have a website, get off you ass and find it (Y)

i only run a rear ultimate ben :P righty, i run an avid ultimate rear v with plaz crv pads on an oddyssey linear slick cable linked up to a xt lever house with an xtr blade-phew what a mouthful :P my rim is an alex 19 with a nice light grind(no need for anyhtign harsh imo) the brake is somewhat immense and pisses over everything i have owned/tried except my front avid juicy disc which again is inf**kingcredible, i also run the same setup on my stock but with an ultimate lever and a ground d521, which again is feckin good, and a front v rather than a disc if you cant afford to go and spend all that money on ultimates (the best v brakes available) id recomend an avid sd7 on at least an xt or xtr leverwith linear slick cable and crv pads dont buy xt/xtr callipers or avid arch rivals, they are wank cos the linkages cause lots of problems deores vs are also a fine budget alternative :) but i did have 1 set fall apart on me:( but i think it was a manufacturing fault heatsinks v pads are only good on smooth rims or as front pads, i found mine appauling on the rear :( linear slicks are the best cables, nokons are also very good but bloody expensive and ive found they arent necessary, just remember to lube the cable on the linear slick as they are a bit sticky as standard (Y) need any more help, then add me to msn-address in my profile :)

running a front freewheel puts more stress on it, its far better to run a rear freewheel, and it gives me you more engagement points at the rear than the front, i cant remeber the ratio stuff to prove that, just wait for tarty, jt or someone to come up with it but yeah an acs with a revolver is a very cheap and good replacement if you dont like hopes excellent hubs and customer backup :S

hope or revolver with an eno i really dont get along with king hubs, but you may like them

just make sure the adjustable isnt oily :turned:

im getting some of them soon :) nice touch to my mod, pity they dont do them for stock :P from what ive heard from bmxers they are damn good :P

yip :ermm:

sounds pretty much spot on, personally id go for a 2.5inch rise (but im far taller and also like a high front-i do the same sorta riding as you), and remember that u will need alot of stem stackers, most 24 rider seem to have a good inch of stackers, so try and keep you steerer as long as possibe and have a play with the stem height :ermm: another thing, if you buying new bars, get 31.8, easton ea70s come in ovesize, but i dont think the kore does, if it doesnt, the titiec rip 3d is an excellent choice and comes in a similar length to what you require :- and they are really cheap for the quality and weight... :P