forteh

Warhammer/40k is an english game and all measurements are taken in imperial I work in metric 95% of the time but once in a while I have to convert an imperial drawing to metric, this is why I know most of the major imperial sizes as a metric conversion. On an odd note imperial micrometers confuse the f**k out of me where as Im fine with a metric one - I can read them, it just takes me twice as long to be certain Im reading the measurement I think Im reading Centimeters are the devil spawn and should be illegal :D

Opposite in the UK, rear on the left

The correct answer is its worth what someone will pay for it

Middleburns, not cheap but imho better than just about anything else out there

Unless your freehub is f**ked theres no way your pedals should ratchet back What hub is it, what gearing are you using and are you relying on the pedal pressure to keep the front wheel up?

Think you will need a peg spanner to undo the pedal inserts Can make one from a couple of steel plates, a bolt and a couple of pins (small allen screws?); or just go beg/borrow/steal one

Thats what I call a wheelswap, not a front to back (as danny described very well ) Get your shoulders over the bars and huck the bike up underneath you when you jump upwards Im crap at them and can barely get more than 28-30"

Did you mean wheelswapping in a vertical or horizontal plane?

You can still pull a helicoil out, but its a lot stronger than the original thread into aluminium

Nope, Ive found that the pins just cut s aneat round hole in my shin with minimal bleeding As I said Ive not slipped a pedal in ages, guess I must have been lucky. The worst shindigs Ive have have been from cage pedals.

Alot of my shin scar tissue has healed now but you can still trace scars from my kneecap most of the way to my ankles Got lots of dents on my shinbones aswell, mostly from bmx over the last 12 years or so

Apart from that muscle that runs down the outside of your shin, or is that just me Its a fact of life you have to get used to when learning to ride, once youve picked the scabs (for maximum scar tissue effect ) invest in some shin guards and it wont happen again so bad. I always used to wear shin guards on my bmx, then it got to the point where they smelt so bad and I couldnt afford to replace them Never ride with them now, last time I slipped a pedal was at least 3 years ago, its just something Ive learnt not to do. Ive also found that flatties do less gashing damage than cage pedals - they do more smashing bruising damage but less skin tearing. Learn to live with the pain, once youve shinned yourself then just walk or ride around on it for a few minutes and the pain will go pretty quickly edit: just watched the video - your cat rocks With regards to the bunnyhops, try putting more shoulder weight over the front wheel more and throw them around to shift your weight, move your body and the bike will follow you.

The free nipples you should (legally) have as thats stated on the website - this is assuming the packing note and invoice has them listed. The spokes are obviously plain guage from the photo supplied on the T-uk website, the fact it states they are double butted is an issue though. As for the tensioner, I would say he is well within his rights to give you a replacement and a discount on a future order, but nothing more. If the replacement tensioner fails in the same manner then yes there is a problem, then I would persue the manufacturer directly not the retailer - its not unknown for a bad sample of a product to get through QC. Surely a chain tensioner will work on any setup, assuming youre not dumb enough to try to run it 1/2" out of line witht he sprocket then how can it fail? The false pretences thing baffles me..... Personally I would take the replacement tensioner and see if that fails, if it does then take it further. As a case in point..... I bought a DMR STS from CRC, fitted it and it was shite - kept coming loose so I replaced it with a mech; instead of bitching and moaning I put it in a box of spare parts. 3 years later Im now using 80% of the same tensioner to keep my chain tight - works wonderfully, cant be hit or broken and keeps the chain tighter than any mech

Betting its a stainless bolt and you didnt use any antisieze on it? If it is stainless then you will have a right game to drill it unless youre set up properly (pillar drill and some very sharp, tipped drills). The reason its seized is because the threads have galled and picked up on the aluminium, effectively cold welding the 2 together (happens even easier with ti bolts) - a tiny smear of copperslip will stop it happening. My method of attack would be mole grips bollocked up tight onto it and very gently heat the aluminium with a blow torch, you need to heat the frame up quicker than the screw so try not to use the heat for a long period at a time; if necessary let it all cool down and try again. Gently apply pressure to the screw (anticlockwise ) whilst heating it. If that doesnt work then I would take it to a local engineers and ask them nicely to drill it out and/or helicoil it

I run an alloy CK drive shell and singlespeed, had a king cog on there for about a year and that dug in alittle. Put a trialtech lite on there and it should be better, wider base than the king cog. Just filed the rough edges down where it had chewed up As said theyre easy to get off with a couple of chain whips.

Never thought of turning the pads before No good if youve put copeprslip on the back of your pads though

Posted in the wrong section, but hey On the back of the mech are 2 little screws, these are the movement range stops and basically limit how far left and right the mech moves - one sets the high stop and one sets the low stop (usually marked with Hi and Lo) Slacken both screws off until you can pull the mech sideways by hand so that the top jockey wheel is in line with the gear you want to use. With the mech held in the right place tighten the screws until you start to feel resistance, the mech body will then move as you turn the screw against the stop. Depending on the design of the mech will depend on which screw you need to adjust to move it left and right, just play around with them till its in the right place. I think tighening the Hi screw will force the mech to run in a lower gear but dont quote me on that. Be aware that if you dont slacken both screws off you risk stripping one of them if they start to tighten against each other. You can also use an old spoke pulled through the cable clamp and tighened up in place of a normal gear cable

Assuming its a hope disk, you pulled the lever with the wheel out Pop the pads out and push the pistons back into the caliper using a large flat blade screwdriver, try to push in the middle of the pistons or youre likely to twist them making it harder to get back in. Put it all back together and pump the lever a few times to get the pads back onto the disk (at first it will feel like the brake isnt working because you need to account for pad wear) and it should all be good. In future dont pull the lever

True, the higher the front wheel the more you can clear Its not so much a jump as a quick, extended manual (a rolling wheelie without pedalling) - keeping your arms straight, quickly and smoothly move your weight backwards and down over the back axle; the front wheel should start to lift into the manualling position (cover the back brake just incase you start to loop it ). As you have more of a jump bike than a pure trials bike this should be easier, a shorter frame and higher bars makes it easier to get into a manual. Once you get the hang of gaining and holding the balance point over the rear wheel you should be able to manual, it will take a lot of practise though but persevere with it Ideally you need to be able to just loft a manual at will without thinking about it, once you can do that you will start getting much bigger bunnyhops. If you can loft the front wheel up to a 2 foot height then you should be able to bunnyhop 2 foot without a problem It will eventually become natural to level the bike, if you land on the rear wheel without levelling youre usually not in control and at risk of looping out, whether you land front wheel or back wheel first depends on the situation really.

Copperslip is just copper grease, any motor shop should sell it for a couple of quid Its an anti-sieze compound that means that you will be able to get the BB out in the future, if you cant get hold of any then a smear of normal grease is better than nothing. Not sure if you should copperslip the splines on isis, maybe someone can help on that, cant see how it would hurt though.

The freewheel will come off with the r/h crank, just need the extractor, BB tool and copperslip edit: oh and when putting the new BB in copperslip the threads to make sure it doesnt sieze in there. Screw the BB in from the right hand side but dont tighten it, while the BB is still loose screw in the plastic cup from the left hand side, again dont screw it all the way in, just enough to guide the non-drive side of the BB in. Tighten the BB from the right hand side (clockwise) and then screw the plastic cup in up to the stop (anticlockwise), you dont need much force on the plastic cup, its only there as a support and the actual tightening of the BB is done from the right hand side

You will need a crank tool, BB tool to suit and copperslip Dont forget that the BB shell is threaded right hand on the right and left hand on the left so make sure youre not trying to tighten it instead of undoing As for getting the freewheel off I dunno as I have a king

Best thing is a nice sharp edged drift (steel or brass bar about 20mm diameter and 250-300mm long) and tap the cups out of the frame from the inside. The edge of the drift has to be sharp in order to properly seat on the thin edge of the cup where its pressed into the headtube, if its an aluminium headset cup then a brass drift is preferable as its softer and less likely to damage the edge getting it out. Starting at one point simply tap the cup out alittle at a time, work the drift round the inside of the headtube and give it a couple of taps at each point, this means the cup will come out square. If the cup twists to one side it will be much more difficult to get out, just tap the one side to even the cup out. You can use a large flat blade screwdriver as a drift but its generally not good practise as it will bugger your screwdriver and the cup If you have an old set of forks you could probably cut the steerer tube off them and use that for a drift.

My old zoo! boa flexed all over the place and the brake was ok but not particularly good. Put an echo control booster on there and it was alot better with less flex. My current frame has a built in booster and the brake is far better without the booster (more flex), it bites and holds better whilst also being noisier. Try it, but be aware that if your frame is very flexy without a booster youre going to cause the frame to fail much faster due to fatigue. My boa frame cracked round the r/h seat stay and its pretty much guaranteed to be from brake induced frame flex. edit: Ive got a control booster spare if you want to try it, call it a tenner, if you dont like the feel/power of it then send it back and Ill refund you the money

Did you even measure them? Every single onza bar Ive ever seen has been either 1" or 1 1/4"; I could be wrong, but 1 1/8" is a very non-standard size for bicycle handlebars and to the best of my knowledge only pazzaz did them. 1 1/8" is the standard size for mx fatbars (the mx equivalent of oversized trials bars) but not bicycles. You do realise that oversize bars are only 6.35mm bigger in diameter than 'normal' bars, to some people thats only a lil' bit