forteh

Or 20 mins with an anglegrinder

Probably too much surface area, the mono trial disk has huge cutouts and small actual metal contact area. Whilst the friction area is smaller on the hope, the pressure applied is over a much smaller area so you get more bite

That sucks Had 4 bikes stolen in the past and apart from one have been lucky with insurance, police were all but useless in all cases though (caught the cnut that stole 2 of them and let him off with a fine ffs :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: ) Hope you get your stuff back

My oldest cat used to love curry, until I fed him madras, hes not so keen now Anything with garlic or tomatoes in he will eat - loves italian, also kebabs, chips, cheese, chinese and pizza My younger cat isnt so much of a dustbin, but if youve got sweaty feet and no socks on, he will lick your toes

Ah so Im not going in completely the wrong direction About the preload, in my experience when on the back wheel there are 3 forms of preload you can use: - Tyre preload is as described above, where the tyre is compressed to give alittle extra bounce upwards. Pedal/drive preload is when you load the forward pedal whilst the back brake is locked on, this takes up any slack in the chain/freehub and allows your pedalkick to immediately drive the back wheel once the brak is released. Body preload is when you lower your arse over the back tyre and drop the front before jumping upwards. All three forms of preload need to be used at the correct time:) I know the theory, Im just crap at the technique

Whilst on the subject as Im also looking to increase height on static hops... When you pedal kick, do you preload the pedals against the brake and then let it explode as potential energy once the brake is released; or do you release the brake and then give it a kick when jumping after preload? Something you would think I should know after riding trials for 8 years on and off :$

Ditch the hub and put a proII trials in there, no point trying to replace an incapable freehub

CNC Heatsinks snap denguras so dont use them, nothing stopping you using the snowy or blueberry pads in plastic backings though Im using CNC reds on a medium grind (now worn so need to use tar) and with a fresh grind theyre awesome, its a tryall rim though so doesnt hold the grind too well Modulation on the front brake? Get a disk, 203 mono trial works for me

Chris Morris for the win!

You wont get a stainless M10 bolt with a 6mm shank unless you get it made specially

I work on a fairground as a part time job, been doing it for 10 years now and its a reet laugh - keeps you fit, gets you out the office and alittle bit of extra cash (about 140-200 a weekend + food + drink). The money isnt particularly amazing compared to proper work but its more of a hobby now To be honest I doubt you would be able to go get a job on the fair and earn the same money, the guy I work for pays very well - so basically a pretty pointless post edit: awesome, the forum changed my T.B.H. to to be honest

I once rode my bmx in 1 piece supermoto race leathers and mx boots, f**k me that was hard work

Exactly I turned 29 a week ago and Im now riding better than I ever have - still crap though, can only backwheel 6 pallets As long as youre in reasonably good condition theres no reason why you cant, your body will adapt over time so it doesnt ache after each ride

My grandparents are dead my dad is scare of anything other than windows 3.1 incase he cant use it

Pull it over by hand and use the hi/lo screws to set the position, zip tie it to chainstay and shorten the chain as much as possible - job done

Try it?

Happy birthday, 25 isnt old, was 29 exactly a week ago

Got a tryall rear and never had a problem with it, apart from being really soft and not holding a grind for more than a couple of weeks.

Gin is the best drinkable alcohol degreaser Surgical spirit or rubbing alcohol are probably more practical and alot cheaper Cellulose thinners is also very good, a decent sized bottle from wilkos for a couple of quid - will do your degreasing requirements for years

Clean the disk with some alcohol and cook the pads over a gas ring to burn any oil out of them

It cost me an extra 70-80 quid a year to add my bikes, thats 3 bikes all valued at 1500 quid though. The insurance approved lock is arse though, I can guarantee the lock will last no longer than 10-15 seconds to a properly equipped theif But if it gets you a payout

LMFAO I believe its a metre

All of my bikes are covered on my house insurance (additional cost though), they are covered if theyre in the house and also if theyre stolen whilst locked up outside (I very rarely leave my bikes unattended at any time locked or unlocked). Ask about adding them to the house insurance but be aware that most places wont insure them above somethign silly like 500 quid unless you pay extra. Getting bicycle specific insurance is rediculously expensive

Im pretty sure the swapped brake levers are to do with being able to give hand signals when turning across a carriage way (right in the UK / left in the US) whilst still being able to safely control speed with the rear brake Could well be wrong though

Exactly Think the last time I measured anythin in cm was about 18-20 years ago