forteh

You would need an opposite hand freewheel or a left hand drive cassette hub. To the best of my knowledge a l/h freewheel isnt made, but there are plenty of l/h drive bmx hubs out there - as to whether they can take trials forces is another question.

Personally I would be alittle wary of doing them from aluminium unless its fairly thick at the point where the end of the normal bars are, any thin sections at that point are going to be subject to alot of fatigue If you really want to go to town then you could machine a hollow delrin plug and reinforce it with some thin wall aluminium tube. The width is purely a starting point, Im not saying its the right size, in theory if you only extend the plugs 20mm then you only need 20mm or so inserted which would equate to about 16g each when solid

Theyre inserted 50mm into the bars and extended 50mm. Solid all the way through, Im not bothered about a couple of grammes Roughly, theyre 39g each, could be made lighter if you hollowed them, but as I said Im not particularly bothered about weight. They are heavier than having the bars full width to start with, its only a matter of 10g each though.

Losing weight costs a lot of money, titanium is roughly 55% the weight of steel but as strong

Figured its better to go wide and cut down if needed Not very tall but pretty wide shoulders, will probably just get used to them.

Myself? Not really, however the concept isnt particularly challenging, just need some 7/8" delrin bar and a lathe In this instance it was turned down from 1" stock as thats all we had to hand. Mass production wouldnt be so easy as you couldnt universally design them as pure hammer in plugs because in the variation in wall thickness/ID between manufacturers However RS sell nylon bar stock over their trade counters, talk nicely to someone with a lathe and a spare 5 mins and youre sorted for the cost of a pint or 2.

Top of the hill All the tracks are in hilly places I believe 2 wheels and suspension is a good start Sorry pretty useless reply, all I know about downhill tracks is stilecop near rugeley and I can fly down there on my santacruz chameleon so its hardly challenging

Yes it would be usefull, but far from profitable unless you own a trials shop stocking the parts, a van and have the time to follow people about on bikes Basically it would be nice from a riders point of view but pretty impractical

Heatsink cnc vees or get a magura with an RB lever, more power and more comfortable than a magura

Yup

I went out last night specifically to work on sidehopping the opposite way, Ive always sidehopped goofy (to the left with left foot forward) and I figured I should learn the 'correct' way too. I can now go the other way a pallet lower than my normal way (still embarrassingly low :$ ) not as smooth but I did it. Also did my 1st ever gap up to front, again really small but its a start and a move that Ive always been scared of flipping over the bars and kissing pallets - been there, done that, got the scars inside my lips to prove As ali says, the more you can do all round the better rider you will be, doing what you are now is building a basis of bike control - you can move onto new techniques when youre more comfortable handling the bike

Ok so I know the topic has been covered before in the last 6 months or so but figured I wouldnt rebump and old thred Just got some 221PR bars from owen with the intention of extending them - was going to go for the ben travis technique tm(stolen from aliC technique tm) of hammering wooden dowel in and building it up with tape. Being an engineer I figured I should at least try to do it properly and get the extenders machined to a push fit into the bars so theres no step under the grips - checked it all out with the guys in our machine shop and they said no problems doing (they wont let me use the machines boo! ) Got the bars this morning and dropped them off at lunchtime, just collected them with +50mm delrin inserts either end so I now have 780mm monty bars woo ! Built-in indestructable bar plugs (almost died because normal plastic ones are weaker than skin and muscle ) and I can always chop them down Hopefully the weather stays dry tonight to try them out, theyve got some fair sweep on them

Summat not right then

The shell length is dependant on the frame, I would guess that the axle lengths are comparable between square taper and isis. Measure your old axle and get a square taper the same. If youre not sure about clearance then its better to go for a longer BB axle to save the chainring/bash/cranks hitting the the chainstay yoke. Theoretically the longer axle is weaker because theres more unsupported axle sticking out of the bearings but it shouldnt really be an issue

The BB shell on the frame will be either 68mm or 73mm long and the axle will probably be 118mm or 127mm. A new one from CRC is only 15 quid http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17473

Or 20 mins with an anglegrinder

Probably too much surface area, the mono trial disk has huge cutouts and small actual metal contact area. Whilst the friction area is smaller on the hope, the pressure applied is over a much smaller area so you get more bite

That sucks Had 4 bikes stolen in the past and apart from one have been lucky with insurance, police were all but useless in all cases though (caught the cnut that stole 2 of them and let him off with a fine ffs :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: ) Hope you get your stuff back

My oldest cat used to love curry, until I fed him madras, hes not so keen now Anything with garlic or tomatoes in he will eat - loves italian, also kebabs, chips, cheese, chinese and pizza My younger cat isnt so much of a dustbin, but if youve got sweaty feet and no socks on, he will lick your toes

Ah so Im not going in completely the wrong direction About the preload, in my experience when on the back wheel there are 3 forms of preload you can use: - Tyre preload is as described above, where the tyre is compressed to give alittle extra bounce upwards. Pedal/drive preload is when you load the forward pedal whilst the back brake is locked on, this takes up any slack in the chain/freehub and allows your pedalkick to immediately drive the back wheel once the brak is released. Body preload is when you lower your arse over the back tyre and drop the front before jumping upwards. All three forms of preload need to be used at the correct time:) I know the theory, Im just crap at the technique

Whilst on the subject as Im also looking to increase height on static hops... When you pedal kick, do you preload the pedals against the brake and then let it explode as potential energy once the brake is released; or do you release the brake and then give it a kick when jumping after preload? Something you would think I should know after riding trials for 8 years on and off :$

Ditch the hub and put a proII trials in there, no point trying to replace an incapable freehub

CNC Heatsinks snap denguras so dont use them, nothing stopping you using the snowy or blueberry pads in plastic backings though Im using CNC reds on a medium grind (now worn so need to use tar) and with a fresh grind theyre awesome, its a tryall rim though so doesnt hold the grind too well Modulation on the front brake? Get a disk, 203 mono trial works for me

Chris Morris for the win!

You wont get a stainless M10 bolt with a 6mm shank unless you get it made specially