forteh

IIRC standard did it first with the top tube / seat tube on the sta and S&M did it first with the head tube / down tube on the menstrual cycle God Im feeling old now Its not really possible to do on the BB / down tube with the good old bmx BB shell, these new fangled modern shells you could do though. Its a pretty sensible way of jointing 2 tubes, much stronger than butt welding.

How about this for a start? Arent the old monty stocks short and flicky? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/monty-trials-bike_W0...1QQcmdZViewItem

Try waiting more than 13 minutes for people to reply eh?

Middleburns get my vote here Expensive but oh so worth it, they come up pretty cheap on here, best get yourself validated so you can buy some No option for ffw with burns though so you need a decent freehub (king or hope pro II) or a screw on hub with a freewheel. If youre wanting to run ffw then the new trialtech cranks look pretty good, not heard any reviews yet but judging on the rest of the trialtech stuff they should be on the good side of awesome For stock Im currently using 18/16 with 165 cranks, got a 15t to go on the back for when I get a bit more power back into my legs No Idea on mod gearing but 18/12 is popular?

Mine are the same, gripping with gloves on is much easier with sweaty hands

About how Ive done it apart from I used a 1mm disk Yay I would say its a sharp medium but I dont have much to compare against 2 hours to bed in or 2 hours life?

The aorta is looking more preferable, where abouts do they crack on the dropouts? Waiting to get the weight of the frame from totaltrials before I really make a decision but the geo looks good

Moisturise Grind your callouses back smooth with a pumice stone (or wet and dry will do ) every so often and it should be ok. I find that sweat from my gloves keeps my hands moist, I always wash the sweat off when I finish riding though. How well do your gloves fit? Im using oneil mx gloves (mx gloves are much harder wearing than cycling ones - they dont usually have lycra in between the fingers which is where all gloves go) and theyre a good tight fit, one of the most comfortable gloves Ive used over the last 10 years. If your gloves are too big and loose then they will be rubbing blisters all over.

There was a recent thread about running ffw with freehubs and the general consensus of opinion is that its a stupid idea With ffw you need a fixed cassette on the rear hub, having a freehub and ffw means that both need to engage before drive is taken up; completely negates the point in high engagement freewheels/freehubs

Whats the symptons?

Having built and ridden the hifi I bought from nick wood for the last couple of months Im feeling that perhaps I should be on a slightly shorter frame. My old zoo boa was 1050wb +10bb and the hifi is 1090wb +50bb, Im thinking something mid way between the two would be better (1070-1080wb +30bb) Im 5'7", realistically should I be looking for a shorter frame or not? Phil@selectbikes (totaltrials) has 2 frames (the aorta and the toxsin2) for sale and both seem to have near enough the same geometry, has anyone got experience of either frame? Especially if youre a shortarse too Personally I prefer the look of the aorta but Ive struggled to find out anything about them on the net My riding mostly comprises of street (because theres f**k all natty here:( ) but more trials oriented than streety stuff. Calling on the wisdom of TF to guide me here

Just weighed one, 2.2kg with the bashguard and headset cups

Just ground the rim and it looks something like this What would you classify that as with regards to harshness? I didnt put too much pressure on the grinder so its not very deep. Not tested it yet properly because my right arm is dead and I need to rest it for a day or so, a quick hop round the garden gave a loud honk and decentish bite, pads wont have worn into it yet though.

I use 25 front and 20 rear. Front tyre is 26x2.35 single ply maxxis larsen tt on a mavic xc717, rear tyre is a 26x2.5 dual ply maxxis high roller on a tryall. I weigh 11 - 11.5 stone and the rear tyre rarely bottoms out, is still very grippy and stable

Got a brand new 1mm metal cutting disk sitting on the desk in front of me, will borrow a grinder tonight and have a play I very rarely use the rear brake for more than 1/4 - 1/2 sec. at a time when rolling, most of it is done with the front disk Do tryalls actually hold grinds? I heard from somewhere ages ago that theyre softer aluminium than others and dont hold grinds as long, any got any experiences? How long should a grind last typically?

Also drop a little oil into the pivot and brass barrell on the lever, can make a huge difference if its run dry

Is it possible to make a grind last longer with a different technique? My last grind went dull in about a week (maybe 6-7 hours riding) but it wasnt a particularly good grind to start with (had the grinder at quite a shallow angle so wasnt very sharp). For a while I had a booster on and the brake was too stiff and not holding, would this wear the grind out quicker or will it wear just as quick without a booster? I am going to try another grind to see if it lasts longer; Im going to keep the disk at 90 degrees to the rim as per krisboats excellent video and hopefully it will work better. Its a tryall rim with cnc reds, Im aiming for a light, sharp grind - any pointers or tips? Beers in advance

Wooo got summat right

I would try taking the wheel and pads out, pump the pistons out with the lever and run some silicone oil around the outside of the pistons - with any luck it might get some lube onto the sticky seal. Other alternative is to strip it completely and service with new seals.

Also twice the weight, depends if youre a weight weenie really

Installing windoze is pretty easy if you apply a little logic and follow the instructions I dont know about the mobo youre getting but if youre installing windows onto a SATA hard disk, mine requires that you have a floppy drive to install the drivers (from floppy disk) for the sata controller before you start trying to install windows - just something that you should be aware of; you can alway sborrow a floppy out of another machine When setting up windows its a sensible time to create any partitions if you want to, I have my 160gig disk split into 20 and 140 so I can format C:\ but still retain most of my stuff on the D:\. All instructions are on screen so nothing really to worry about. As youre buying new you should have current drivers disks and software, always worth going and downloading the latest version of the drivers for your hardware as the ones that they come with are invariably out of date the moment theyre shipped You can always ask on a friendly forum if you get stuck

A single nvidea 9700gs on that system will play most modern games at acceptable framerates, you can pick them up for about 50 quid now Infact I have one spare right now

True, who knows what the penetration on the weld is like Ignore what I said and leave 2-3mm sticking proud

It would be far better to machine them out with a dremel and some carbide cutters/burrs, will take the material out faster and allow you to easily leave rounded corners rather that square ones which will just propogate cracks

No reason why not, best to cut the seat tube down flush with the top of top tube though. Cover it with a monty seat pad, a large thick sticker or some gaffer tape Cut it off roughly with a hacksaw then carefully file/grind the remaining material and weld do untill its a flush joint, shouldnt afffect the integrity of the frame a great deal. edit: too slow