forteh

Pedalstroke to get it up on the back wheel

It does if the graphics drivers are absolute bobbins Also you need twice the memory for games to run under vista against xp

Lose the vista and it will be much betterer I have near the same spec rig at home except I have a 4400 x2, 3 gig of normal ddr and 7900gs sli running win xp - it plays most recent games at high-max quality with reasonable framerates although some of the newer pc releases (not xbox360 ports) do make it struggle a bit. You will definitely need a better psu, Im using an OCZ 520w and never had any problems with it - spend as much as you can afford on your psu, especially if you are intending to upgrade to a better spec at a later date

^^ What he said, if the replacement caliper is dry you will need to rebleed but as your lever and line are already charged and bled that should be pretty simple

Most of the weight is taken on the joint between the 2 parts at most, its pretty sturdy and shouldnt move. The great thing about plastics is that they creep rather than failing quickly like work hardened aluminium Duly noted Im not what could be considered a big rider, dont do big drops or gaps to front (read that as cant ) and generally try to be smoother on smaller stuff than balls out harsh on bigger stuff. Will keep an eye on them though. In reality Im only really using 25-30mm extensions as my hands arent at the outside of the grips.

I suspect he means mag body, ti axle A bit confusing as he mentions mag cage platform pedals int he same sentence

Noshit, Ive been riding bmx since '96 Just that all of the l/h drives Ive seen are cassette hubs not screw on freewheel - its highly unlikely that a bmx cassette hub will stand up to the forces imparted on the pawl by trials (well apart from profiles, do they make l/h drive?) edit: yup profile do a l/h drive version of the SS hub, waay too heavy for trials, you would probably have to replace the axle for ti to get it down to a sensible weight

Been out for a few hours tonight with the new bars and the ride of the bike has transformed Bars tips are now 2" higher at 41.5" with much more upsweep and alittle more back. The bike has become much more floaty as a result and balancing has become alot easier - Im currently really loving the wide bars

Try asking this bloke, he might know

Believe BB7s are better suited for trials than the juicies, could be wrong though Personally I use a 203 mono trial up front and an RB/hs33 with cnc heatsinks on the back.

You would need an opposite hand freewheel or a left hand drive cassette hub. To the best of my knowledge a l/h freewheel isnt made, but there are plenty of l/h drive bmx hubs out there - as to whether they can take trials forces is another question.

Personally I would be alittle wary of doing them from aluminium unless its fairly thick at the point where the end of the normal bars are, any thin sections at that point are going to be subject to alot of fatigue If you really want to go to town then you could machine a hollow delrin plug and reinforce it with some thin wall aluminium tube. The width is purely a starting point, Im not saying its the right size, in theory if you only extend the plugs 20mm then you only need 20mm or so inserted which would equate to about 16g each when solid

Theyre inserted 50mm into the bars and extended 50mm. Solid all the way through, Im not bothered about a couple of grammes Roughly, theyre 39g each, could be made lighter if you hollowed them, but as I said Im not particularly bothered about weight. They are heavier than having the bars full width to start with, its only a matter of 10g each though.

Losing weight costs a lot of money, titanium is roughly 55% the weight of steel but as strong

Figured its better to go wide and cut down if needed Not very tall but pretty wide shoulders, will probably just get used to them.

Myself? Not really, however the concept isnt particularly challenging, just need some 7/8" delrin bar and a lathe In this instance it was turned down from 1" stock as thats all we had to hand. Mass production wouldnt be so easy as you couldnt universally design them as pure hammer in plugs because in the variation in wall thickness/ID between manufacturers However RS sell nylon bar stock over their trade counters, talk nicely to someone with a lathe and a spare 5 mins and youre sorted for the cost of a pint or 2.

Top of the hill All the tracks are in hilly places I believe 2 wheels and suspension is a good start Sorry pretty useless reply, all I know about downhill tracks is stilecop near rugeley and I can fly down there on my santacruz chameleon so its hardly challenging

Yes it would be usefull, but far from profitable unless you own a trials shop stocking the parts, a van and have the time to follow people about on bikes Basically it would be nice from a riders point of view but pretty impractical

Heatsink cnc vees or get a magura with an RB lever, more power and more comfortable than a magura

Yup

I went out last night specifically to work on sidehopping the opposite way, Ive always sidehopped goofy (to the left with left foot forward) and I figured I should learn the 'correct' way too. I can now go the other way a pallet lower than my normal way (still embarrassingly low :$ ) not as smooth but I did it. Also did my 1st ever gap up to front, again really small but its a start and a move that Ive always been scared of flipping over the bars and kissing pallets - been there, done that, got the scars inside my lips to prove As ali says, the more you can do all round the better rider you will be, doing what you are now is building a basis of bike control - you can move onto new techniques when youre more comfortable handling the bike

Ok so I know the topic has been covered before in the last 6 months or so but figured I wouldnt rebump and old thred Just got some 221PR bars from owen with the intention of extending them - was going to go for the ben travis technique tm(stolen from aliC technique tm) of hammering wooden dowel in and building it up with tape. Being an engineer I figured I should at least try to do it properly and get the extenders machined to a push fit into the bars so theres no step under the grips - checked it all out with the guys in our machine shop and they said no problems doing (they wont let me use the machines boo! ) Got the bars this morning and dropped them off at lunchtime, just collected them with +50mm delrin inserts either end so I now have 780mm monty bars woo ! Built-in indestructable bar plugs (almost died because normal plastic ones are weaker than skin and muscle ) and I can always chop them down Hopefully the weather stays dry tonight to try them out, theyve got some fair sweep on them

Summat not right then

The shell length is dependant on the frame, I would guess that the axle lengths are comparable between square taper and isis. Measure your old axle and get a square taper the same. If youre not sure about clearance then its better to go for a longer BB axle to save the chainring/bash/cranks hitting the the chainstay yoke. Theoretically the longer axle is weaker because theres more unsupported axle sticking out of the bearings but it shouldnt really be an issue

The BB shell on the frame will be either 68mm or 73mm long and the axle will probably be 118mm or 127mm. A new one from CRC is only 15 quid http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17473