forteh

No worries

The slaves are the cylinders where the brake pads clip into, the master cylinder is in the lever. In hydraulic systems the master cylinder is the one that is operated and the slave cylinder is the one that does the operation - in the case of hydraulic brakes a mechanical advantage is built into the system by using different size pistons between the master and slaves Tarty sells brand new slave cylinders for 16 quid a piece (about $30 to you)

Mine have been water bled for years without a problem, if youre worried about the seal wear then just drop a little oil (proper oil not wd40 or such wank like it) onto the pistons. At the end of the day you can get a set of maggie slaves for bugger all. Ive got 6

The water doesnt affect the seals at all, its the lack of lubricating oil that means the pistons wear the seals out faster Ive had an olive corrode into the slave cylinder though so it wouldnt hurt to strip it every 6 months or so. Corrosion of ferrous materials (steel and iron) happens faster if it is subject to alternate immersion in water and then open air, hence if you have air in your bleed then its more likely to corrode the olives. Ive used 3 barbs to connect my slaves up so shouldnt get anymore stuck olives

Its the skewer slipping, the wheel comes out of centre compared to the fork crown Undo the skewer, reseat the wheel and its back in the middle. There are no rattles or odd noises other than the disk scuffing on the pads. Its a front shimano skewer, the front hope one Ive got is worse Anyone do a bolt up solution for hope xc hubs?

I never suffered any problems, when I first water bled I drained my old oil out and replaced it directly with water. Never had a problem with it When I bath bled the system in my bathroom sink the oily/watery mess that came out made a right state of the sink

Already is - bugger

The heatsink suggestion of a babyoil bleed is interesting, thinner and cheaper than maggie blood. If you dont have a bleed kit then water is easiest as you can bath bleed My old water bleed had stood for 2-3 years and air had got in somewhere (probably through the rb lever seals). When I bath bled it the other day a load of oil came out through the pipes, as it hasnt had an oil bleed in 4 years I figured that its got in there from when Ive oiled the outsides of the seals. I cant see how a little oil in the bleed will affect it other than providing some internal lubrication for the seals

Theyre the cheaper shimano skewers and the hub has a serrated ring on there, the serrations on the skewer may have worn a bit flat although theyre not particularly old/used. The faces of the dropouts are smooth though, suspect this may be the cause of the problem - might try attacking them with a grinder

No cones on a hope xc, its a sealed bearing hub. Its the skewer not gripping the dropouts

11.030kg / 24.266lbs echo hifi onza flyguy forks onza t-rex bars & stem RS7s with big bashring & dmr v8s king/tryall rear wheel with 2.35 high roller hopexc/mavic x717 with mythos xc deore mech for chain tension un53 BB (shimano lx) front mono trial rear maggie with rb lever and echo control booster Not the lightest but it doesnt bother me a great deal, some weight to shed when I get a decent tensioner (74kings probably).

Youre probably not pushing the pistons square enough if theyve jammed, you also probably have a bit of dirt behind the seals; only needs to be a tiny spec to jam it all up

Get a hope off fleabay or here, should pick one up for 20-30 quid, dont forget to factor in the cost of rebuilding the wheel aswell

New set of seals Just done one of my old mini calipers, had the same symptons and new seals and bleed sorted it. You will need to get the tool to undo the piston plug or take it to your nearest hope dealer to get them to do it. On the mini the seals were just square section o-rings, cant see the mono trial being any different. When you put the pistons back in lube them with some fresh brake fluid and they will pop into the seals easier

Just rebuilt my trials bike with N-wood's old hifi frame and went for the first ride in 2-3 years last night Its all good - my back, legs, arms, shoulders and hands are now all hurting me but its a good hurt Quick question though, thenever I use the front disk (hope trial) the front wheel shifts in the drop outs due to torque reaction and then causes the disk to scuff the pads. It used to do it a bit before with my old hope mini (not mono) but with the more powerful trials brake its happening all the time. The hub is hope xc, forks are onza fly guys and its a deore skewer tightened up as much as possible - no matter what I do it moves Also got some hope skewers but theyre even worse than the shimano ones Any suggestions?

Lace them cross and buy single colour ones then Not all skate shoes have the 'padded' look, etnies lo-cuts for example. In my experience etnies, duffs and emerica are very hard wearing and a pair will last me years

I have a mythos xc on a x517 on the front of my bike Got an old kujo and el gato in the bike cupboard, might put the kujo on the front tonight

Ive had a water bleed for the last 3-4 years, admittedly the bikes not been ridden for the last 2 years :$ Never had any problems or leaks with it and the lever feel is waay better I did lube the outside of the pistons occasionally (drop alittle oil in there) when they looked dry. The seals are still intact, it doesnt bother me if they fail as I have 4 spare slave cylinders floating about somewhere One problem with the water bleed is that the olive has rusted into the slave so I cant get it off the end of the hose - no major hassle really though. I suspect if you keep it properly bled with water and/or strip it every 6 months to clean it then this wouldnt happen - because my bleed failed a little while ago its had air sitting in the system, this has probably caused the olive it to corrode. Either way water works

Im 29 in 2 months and just picking up trials again, last rode properly about 3 years ago - cracked my old frame and not got round to it since I can see my back, arms and shoulders hating me for a week or two FWIW Ive been on bikes for the last 15 years and riding trials on and off for almost 11 years - still crap though!

You have recieved a new feedback. Below are details concerning the new feedback. Type: Good Rating SummaryGood communication, quick delivery - top bloke Given By: forteh You were the: Seller Date: 1204883831

lmao :D

Quickly from my playlist Hells Bells - ACDC = 5.12 Seize the Day - Avenged Sevenfold = 5.32 Deathblow - Deftones = 5.28 Showbiz - Muse = 5.15 Big Long Now - Nirvana = 5.03 Immortality - Pearl Jam = 5.25 Makeshift Patriot - Sage Francis = 5.50 Better Living Though Chemistry - QOTSA = 5.49 The Hunger - The Distillers = 5.27 Swamp Song - Tool = 5.31

Or just take the caliper to pieces as I said and use a vice, then you dont risk killing your expensive caliper :turned:

Is it the mono mini or the 2 piece caliper? If its the 2 piece then take the caliper off the bike & disconnect the banjo fitting. Remove the retaining pin clip and the 2 allen screws holding the halves togetherthen the whole lot should slide apart and you can grip the shaft of the retaining pin in a vice and turnt he caliper body half to release it. Reassemble as normal and put a new retaining pin in and get some decent allen keys that are sharp and wont round you screws off (Y) If its the mini mono I would try to get some needle nose pliers on the clip end of the retaining pin and see if you can twist it out. A large stud extractor into the allen head might work aswell. Other than that phone hope and they should be able to sort you out. Hope that helps :turned: edit: The retaining screw on the mini is the one just above the h in hope on the caliper in this picture On the mini the retaining pin is the same (I think), and is located between the 2 allen screws that hold the caliper halves together). On the mini mono there arent the 2 allen screws cos the caliper is a single piece unit, but the retaining screw does exactly the same.

Yeah, dont sell it, just lock it up somewhere safe and pull it out later when you get bored of bmx. Thats why I have a mint bmx (standard sta), jump bike (santa cruz chameleon) and trials bike (zoo! boa), yet only really ride trials atm. Youll kick yourself later if you decide to try trials again, cos you probably wont sell it for much more than half of the cost of a new bike, hence hundreds of wasted pounds that you could spend on beer >_< Dont sell unless youre strapped for cash >_<