forteh

Im running 18-16 on my stock, only just changed from 22-16 (too high) so still trying to work out if Id be better suited to 18-15. Riding between spots doesnt bother me edit: running 165 middleburns

I believe theres a wiki for fixing a broken tpa Sticky pistons are either dirt in the seals or lack of lubrication. Have you got an oil or water bleed? If its water then its likely you just need to lubricat the outsides of the pistons. Take the pads off and carefully pull the pistons out with some pliers, put a couple of drops of oil on the outside of the piston and this should free them up. If you have an oil bleed then the slaves are probably dirty, search the wiki for how to clean them out. With a water bleed you need to lubricate the pistons occasionally to extend the life of the seals and to stop the pistons sticking.

My grips are worn completely smooth and are about 1-2mm thick (thin come to think about it ) I have no issues with my hands/gloves slipping on them. Perhaps you should invest in some grips that arent stupidly hard and grip no matter what

If I ever get stopped by the police (not that I have in the last 4-5 years) for riding on the pavement then I simply explain that because you cant physically ride a trials bike more than about 8mph continuous speed then I would be causing a road traffic hazard and its far safer on the path. That said I dont ride like a twat on the path and always give way to pedestrians as its their right of way. I tend to ride my mountainbike on the road simply because I can keep a sensible road speed up, as a road user myself its more dangerous for an old biddy to be wobbling about on the road than to be on the pavement

A 10mm or so thick polycarbonate plate bolted to the disk mount that sits on the outside of the disk could well work, additional location on the bottom of the fork dropout could provide addition support so that all the force isnt transmitted through the caliper bolts. Whether or not it would be stiff enough to stop deflection enough so as to not bend the disk would need further investigation. A man with a copy of solidworks, a cnc mill, some engineeering background and spare time could knock a prototype out pretty easily Now wheres heatsink? edit: making it so that it fits all forks would need a fair amount of investigation and design work, however the common relative locations of caliper mount and axle are a good starting point.

The only way to get it out would be to have the correct machined driver that interfaces with the ratchet, hammer and screwdriver will more than likely damage the threads and then you need to buy a new hubshell and drive ring Send it to hope they will fit a new one for you

Maxxis high rollers are a popular choice, believe the tryalls are also very good but much softer and wear out quickly. Cant go much wrong with the maxxis though, Ive had a 60a (hardest compound) on the back for the last couple of years and its still probably got a 1/4 life in it. Will probably go for one os the softer compounds next though

The bearing code will tell you the size of the bearings, dont know off the top of me head what all the numbers relate to though Easiest to ring up tarty and get them to compare the bearings form the hub and the stocked ones, otherwise take both the hub and axle to your local bearing shop and they will be able to size some to suit

You could try an RB lever to increase the mechanical advantage on your brake, a lot less force to pull it and easier to keep it locked Might need to add a booster though.

My hifi has a built in booster but it still flexes loads

Ive got a control booster on my hifi and its pretty stiff, got an rb lever though which excerts more mechanical advantage than the maggie. Without the booster the stays flex quite a lot. Fitting the 4bolt isnt hard at all, just loosely put it together one screw and spacer tube at a time, as long as you dont tighten any of the screws down before you have all 4 spacer tubes in its fine. Fitting the 4bolt stopped me kicking my crossovers off

The brakes will only need bleeding if youve got a leak and air has gotten into the system - the lever will feel spongey and generally pull right back to the bars without pulling the brake on. Best thing to do is learn to bleed brakes yourself then you dont need to pay someone to do it for you

Maggie slaves (quicksilvers from about 1996 I think ) RB lever Echo control 4bolt booster Heatsink cnc reds Dead grind (will regrind at some point) Water bleed Very light action, good hold and bite and pretty quiet (running a huge booster on a stiff frame sorts that) - its currently the best rear brake Ive had

Thanks for the headsup, its been years since I bought a BB My lbs will probably have a stock of old BBs I can raid, if not a 54 it is

Shimano LX is UN52 and has solid axle with plastic cups. Shimano XT is UN72 and has a hollow axle with aluminium cups. Currently using a UN52 with UN72 cups, although I might go find a 72 to save a fair amount of weight

More friction surface = more braking power

Vents are only really needed to if the disk is getting hot, aluminium is a much better heat conductor than stainless steel so it doesnt need the vents to stop it warping, likewise the cast iron disk on my supermoto is unvented yet its better than any stainless steel disk of the same size

Given that the marta is an open system its probably one of 2 things: - The pads are completely worn out and are beyond the automatic adjustment of the system. Theres air in the system and it need bleeding. Does the brake work at all? If not then its probably just in need of a bleed.

Can guarantee it hasnt The whole frame would need to be normalised then retempered to suit, both processes would have destroyed the paint.

Generally any cyanoacrylate will work but I would get hold of some loctite preferably as its good stuff. I would avoid superglue in a little metal tube as its usually shite, if its in a rigid plastic bottle then it will last longer without going off

Cyanoacrylate (superglue) will hold them in and a good sharp stanley knife will cut them Degrease the pads and backings beforehand for better sticking, a little lubricant on the blade will help it cut, pretty sure washing up liquid is good enough.

There was a slight delay in the posting for the coud9 and cnc pads I ordered, got them yesterday though all as promised Bear in mind that Steve is a busy man with wife & kids and a full time job ontop of the stuff for heatsink, hes also released the new frame recently so something has to give way.

Which profiles have you got? The SS ones were much heavier than the race ones. IMHO profiles are the best bmx cranks and no heavier than any others, I got some primo powerbites instead of some profiles and they were heavier and always coming loose - got profiles on my standard now. If you have profile race now then I would keep them and possibly invest in a lighter axle (sure they do titanium bb spindles for profiles) edit: yup profile do titanium spindles for the cranks, titanium spindle will set you back 80 quid.....

Pads: Heatsink Red CNCs Time used: 2 hours so far Rim used: Tryall Grind: Yes - very dull and dead though, a slight smear of tar aswell but Im not going to reapply that. Ceraminc: No Brake used: Magura with RB lever and echo control booster (water bleed) What is your opinion of a working brake: A brake that locks on and holds without needing to put stupid force through the lever. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Rimjam greens - same bite and hold as the reds but the rimjams wore down in 4 hours Koxx browns - no bite or hold compared to the reds but have lasted for years Review: The pads work straight away, no bedding in with instant bite and hold - exactly how a brake should work Only a slight honk but Im running the booster on a hifi frame which is pretty stiff anyways. I will be able to comment on wear rate when Ive ridden some more with them. For 6 quid a refill you cant go wrong

Round ones with a largely nitrogen & oxygen based gaseous inflation media