forteh

Easiest if you have another person to help you 1.) Puts some newspaper down or do it in the garden. 2.) Set the lever so its horizontal (bleed screw at highest position). 3.) Undo the bleed bolt on the slave cylinder. 4.) Fill the syringe and hose with water and screw it into the slave cylinder, rest it against the seat stays or somewhere handy. 5.) Undo the bleed screw from the lever. 6.) Screw the bleed hose to the lever and put the free end into a bottle that your mate is holding. 7.) Slowly push the syringe down, you should see dirty oil flowing through the tube out of the lever into the bottle, when you run out of syringe leave it attached. 8.) Get your mate to put a finger over the end of the hose attached to the lever. 9.) Pop the syringe off the end of the tube and refill it with water (because you mate is blocking the other hose off it shouldnt flow backwards) Try to not get any airbubbles in the end of the syringe or the tube. 10.) Get your mate to take his finger off the end and pump the syringe again. 11.) Repeat 7-10 above untill you have clear water running out of the hose connected to the lever - a few spots of oil wont hurt though. If there are air bubbles coming out then you still have air in the system and it will be spongey. 12.) Once you have a solid stream of water without bubbles coming through the lever then leave the syringe in place, unscrew the bleed hose and put the bleed screw back in the lever. 13.) Unscrew the syringe and hose from the slave cylinder and put the bleed bolt back in. 14.) Check the brake works and isnt spongey then clean up the mess The first couple of times may not work, jsut try again and you will soon get used to it and it wont take long - submerged bleeding is easier though

The original 2bolt mounts had the aluminium arm and the adjustable taper so that you could line it up perfectly, the later evo mounts had the plastic lugs with the serrated teeth cut so it was easier to set both sides the same. As long as you dont use the quick release theyre fine

You will definitely need a booster with it otherwise its just going to be flexomatic Also better if you bolt them up solid rather than using the quick release; not sure on the newer evo mounts but on the original 2 bolt system the quick release was crap and never held tight If youre capable with a drill and marking out might be worth buying a v brake booster and drilling the extra bolt holes in for the top magura mounts - sort of making a 4bolt booster for a 2 bolt evo mount

Assuming you mean the magura evo mounts? ALL maguras used to use them Theyre fine, for starters, not as stiff as 4 bolt but more than useable.

Just measured mine, bad news is its only 205mm or there abouts You could cut it mid length, and weld a suitable extending sleeve in there

Will measure the min and max lengths when I get home

Theoretically: - Using a wheelbase of 42.9" (1090) and 18/16 (1.125:1) a half crank turn gives you 45.95" (1167) forward movement. This falls between the wheelbase (1090) and wheelbase+half (1420) Using a wheelbase of 42.9" (1090) and 18/15 (1.2:1) a half crank turn gives you 49.01" (1244) forward movement. You would have to go to 18/13 to give more than a wheel+half forward movement. 18:16 seems alittle light to me but then Ive just come from 22:18 whereby a half crank turn gives you 56.16" (1426) forward movement. The theory appears to hold up for stock

Ive got a brand new, unused dna headlock at home that you can have What front brake are you using because you wont get a hope hydro cable through it, neither will you get a magura hose through unless you put a new olive on afterwards. I can check the length if you want, I dont want anything for it but not sure how much postage is likely to be to canada - might be cheaper to try to source one second hand from the states?

Reckon your last frame was quite short and streety, the adamant may have a longer front end which means you have to effectively rotate it more around the rear axle to get it on the back wheel. For static hops and stuff on the back wheel this is ideal but for rolling stuff it makes it much harder Look through the wiki for techniques on getting up stuff.

Are you pinching the tubes or are they just getting small holes? It might be worth checking you rimtape is intact and there are no sharp spoke hole edges inside the rim that could be puncturing it. If its pinch punctures then you either need more pressure or a better tyre, if its not then try wrapping the rim with electrical tape before putting the rimtape on. Have you checked the inside of the tyre for small stones, bits of glass or thorns?

Assuming the tpa isnt threaded then turn it anticlockwise when facing the front of the bike - that is when on the bike turn it clockwise

Is your wheel straight in the dropouts? If not set it straight before setting your brake. Is your wheel straight? If its not and its buckled then you need to get it straightened before doing the above. Brake pads should be set as close as you can get to the rim without them rubbing (if your wheel is buckled then you cant set them as close), they should both hit the rim perfectly square and preferably at the same time (however using the tpa will make one pad move before the other). The brake should always be set up with the tpa wound all the way out so that the pads are completely home before setting them. You will probably need to move the slave cylinders in the plastic washers in order to fit the new pads in. Personally my pads are about 2-3mm away from the rim and the brake locks with the lever almost touching the bar (easier to hold the brake locked without causing cramp). I have an RB lever though which increases brake power but reduces pad movement so my pads need to be slightly close to the rim than with a standard magura lever - I guess you could get away with 3-5mm gap between the pads and the rim.

You havent set the pads up right, theyre rubbing on the rim

Buy a new one you tight bugger You could fabricate one from some all thread but its not worth the effort.

Im running 18-16 on my stock, only just changed from 22-16 (too high) so still trying to work out if Id be better suited to 18-15. Riding between spots doesnt bother me edit: running 165 middleburns

I believe theres a wiki for fixing a broken tpa Sticky pistons are either dirt in the seals or lack of lubrication. Have you got an oil or water bleed? If its water then its likely you just need to lubricat the outsides of the pistons. Take the pads off and carefully pull the pistons out with some pliers, put a couple of drops of oil on the outside of the piston and this should free them up. If you have an oil bleed then the slaves are probably dirty, search the wiki for how to clean them out. With a water bleed you need to lubricate the pistons occasionally to extend the life of the seals and to stop the pistons sticking.

My grips are worn completely smooth and are about 1-2mm thick (thin come to think about it ) I have no issues with my hands/gloves slipping on them. Perhaps you should invest in some grips that arent stupidly hard and grip no matter what

If I ever get stopped by the police (not that I have in the last 4-5 years) for riding on the pavement then I simply explain that because you cant physically ride a trials bike more than about 8mph continuous speed then I would be causing a road traffic hazard and its far safer on the path. That said I dont ride like a twat on the path and always give way to pedestrians as its their right of way. I tend to ride my mountainbike on the road simply because I can keep a sensible road speed up, as a road user myself its more dangerous for an old biddy to be wobbling about on the road than to be on the pavement

A 10mm or so thick polycarbonate plate bolted to the disk mount that sits on the outside of the disk could well work, additional location on the bottom of the fork dropout could provide addition support so that all the force isnt transmitted through the caliper bolts. Whether or not it would be stiff enough to stop deflection enough so as to not bend the disk would need further investigation. A man with a copy of solidworks, a cnc mill, some engineeering background and spare time could knock a prototype out pretty easily Now wheres heatsink? edit: making it so that it fits all forks would need a fair amount of investigation and design work, however the common relative locations of caliper mount and axle are a good starting point.

The only way to get it out would be to have the correct machined driver that interfaces with the ratchet, hammer and screwdriver will more than likely damage the threads and then you need to buy a new hubshell and drive ring Send it to hope they will fit a new one for you

Maxxis high rollers are a popular choice, believe the tryalls are also very good but much softer and wear out quickly. Cant go much wrong with the maxxis though, Ive had a 60a (hardest compound) on the back for the last couple of years and its still probably got a 1/4 life in it. Will probably go for one os the softer compounds next though

The bearing code will tell you the size of the bearings, dont know off the top of me head what all the numbers relate to though Easiest to ring up tarty and get them to compare the bearings form the hub and the stocked ones, otherwise take both the hub and axle to your local bearing shop and they will be able to size some to suit

You could try an RB lever to increase the mechanical advantage on your brake, a lot less force to pull it and easier to keep it locked Might need to add a booster though.

My hifi has a built in booster but it still flexes loads

Ive got a control booster on my hifi and its pretty stiff, got an rb lever though which excerts more mechanical advantage than the maggie. Without the booster the stays flex quite a lot. Fitting the 4bolt isnt hard at all, just loosely put it together one screw and spacer tube at a time, as long as you dont tighten any of the screws down before you have all 4 spacer tubes in its fine. Fitting the 4bolt stopped me kicking my crossovers off