forteh

My home bodged chain tensioner made from an old dmr tensioner Could do with a slightly softer spring as the chain is really alittle bit too tight, it doesnt slap or bang though

Front one is an irc el gato and rear is a panaracer fire xc pro if Im not mistaken

Cant you run the tugs on the inside? If you have snail cams inside the dropouts you should be able to run tugs

Chaintugs are the sensible option if snailcams arent working

Im right footed, left foot forward, sidehop left and spin to the right - no wonder Im crap

A few years ago (ok 15 years, Im getting old ) they only came in the flourescent yellow Ive got silver slaves at the moment and some white ones floating about spare

Avid SD7 (or ultimate if youre feeling rich ) or shimano xtr seem to be the best choice - depends on how much money you have The SD7 is only 11 quid from tarty

This is a good topic idea but crap execution Should have been "What do you drink whilst riding...."

I have no mech on my 135mm hifi, singlespeed with a home bodged tensioner (an old dmr simple tension seeker and exhaust spring off my supermoto with a bit of fiddling about). The tensioner is inboard of the frame and mounted inside the dropout so it can never be hit even if I land on it Meant drilling a hole in the dropout but its not in a highly stressed area so no cause for concern

Whatever I last drank I dont make a point of drinking before riding but if its a day long ride I usually take a camelbak of water and top it up during the day with bottled

I ride goofy, left foot forward and sidehop to the left, I can go to the right aswell but not as comfortable with it - I also x-up goofy on my bmx and moutainbike, left foot forward and turn the bars left not right. Dont run a mech on my bike, got singlespeed and homemade tensioner bodged from an old dmr tensioner and an exhaust spring off my supermoto

Easiest if you have another person to help you 1.) Puts some newspaper down or do it in the garden. 2.) Set the lever so its horizontal (bleed screw at highest position). 3.) Undo the bleed bolt on the slave cylinder. 4.) Fill the syringe and hose with water and screw it into the slave cylinder, rest it against the seat stays or somewhere handy. 5.) Undo the bleed screw from the lever. 6.) Screw the bleed hose to the lever and put the free end into a bottle that your mate is holding. 7.) Slowly push the syringe down, you should see dirty oil flowing through the tube out of the lever into the bottle, when you run out of syringe leave it attached. 8.) Get your mate to put a finger over the end of the hose attached to the lever. 9.) Pop the syringe off the end of the tube and refill it with water (because you mate is blocking the other hose off it shouldnt flow backwards) Try to not get any airbubbles in the end of the syringe or the tube. 10.) Get your mate to take his finger off the end and pump the syringe again. 11.) Repeat 7-10 above untill you have clear water running out of the hose connected to the lever - a few spots of oil wont hurt though. If there are air bubbles coming out then you still have air in the system and it will be spongey. 12.) Once you have a solid stream of water without bubbles coming through the lever then leave the syringe in place, unscrew the bleed hose and put the bleed screw back in the lever. 13.) Unscrew the syringe and hose from the slave cylinder and put the bleed bolt back in. 14.) Check the brake works and isnt spongey then clean up the mess The first couple of times may not work, jsut try again and you will soon get used to it and it wont take long - submerged bleeding is easier though

The original 2bolt mounts had the aluminium arm and the adjustable taper so that you could line it up perfectly, the later evo mounts had the plastic lugs with the serrated teeth cut so it was easier to set both sides the same. As long as you dont use the quick release theyre fine

You will definitely need a booster with it otherwise its just going to be flexomatic Also better if you bolt them up solid rather than using the quick release; not sure on the newer evo mounts but on the original 2 bolt system the quick release was crap and never held tight If youre capable with a drill and marking out might be worth buying a v brake booster and drilling the extra bolt holes in for the top magura mounts - sort of making a 4bolt booster for a 2 bolt evo mount

Assuming you mean the magura evo mounts? ALL maguras used to use them Theyre fine, for starters, not as stiff as 4 bolt but more than useable.

Just measured mine, bad news is its only 205mm or there abouts You could cut it mid length, and weld a suitable extending sleeve in there

Will measure the min and max lengths when I get home

Theoretically: - Using a wheelbase of 42.9" (1090) and 18/16 (1.125:1) a half crank turn gives you 45.95" (1167) forward movement. This falls between the wheelbase (1090) and wheelbase+half (1420) Using a wheelbase of 42.9" (1090) and 18/15 (1.2:1) a half crank turn gives you 49.01" (1244) forward movement. You would have to go to 18/13 to give more than a wheel+half forward movement. 18:16 seems alittle light to me but then Ive just come from 22:18 whereby a half crank turn gives you 56.16" (1426) forward movement. The theory appears to hold up for stock

Ive got a brand new, unused dna headlock at home that you can have What front brake are you using because you wont get a hope hydro cable through it, neither will you get a magura hose through unless you put a new olive on afterwards. I can check the length if you want, I dont want anything for it but not sure how much postage is likely to be to canada - might be cheaper to try to source one second hand from the states?

Reckon your last frame was quite short and streety, the adamant may have a longer front end which means you have to effectively rotate it more around the rear axle to get it on the back wheel. For static hops and stuff on the back wheel this is ideal but for rolling stuff it makes it much harder Look through the wiki for techniques on getting up stuff.

Are you pinching the tubes or are they just getting small holes? It might be worth checking you rimtape is intact and there are no sharp spoke hole edges inside the rim that could be puncturing it. If its pinch punctures then you either need more pressure or a better tyre, if its not then try wrapping the rim with electrical tape before putting the rimtape on. Have you checked the inside of the tyre for small stones, bits of glass or thorns?

Assuming the tpa isnt threaded then turn it anticlockwise when facing the front of the bike - that is when on the bike turn it clockwise

Is your wheel straight in the dropouts? If not set it straight before setting your brake. Is your wheel straight? If its not and its buckled then you need to get it straightened before doing the above. Brake pads should be set as close as you can get to the rim without them rubbing (if your wheel is buckled then you cant set them as close), they should both hit the rim perfectly square and preferably at the same time (however using the tpa will make one pad move before the other). The brake should always be set up with the tpa wound all the way out so that the pads are completely home before setting them. You will probably need to move the slave cylinders in the plastic washers in order to fit the new pads in. Personally my pads are about 2-3mm away from the rim and the brake locks with the lever almost touching the bar (easier to hold the brake locked without causing cramp). I have an RB lever though which increases brake power but reduces pad movement so my pads need to be slightly close to the rim than with a standard magura lever - I guess you could get away with 3-5mm gap between the pads and the rim.

You havent set the pads up right, theyre rubbing on the rim

Buy a new one you tight bugger You could fabricate one from some all thread but its not worth the effort.