forteh

If youre single speed already then no reason not to either make or buy a tensioner that doesnt mount off the mech hanger I made mine from a dmr sts, some odd brake components lying about and a motorbike exhaust spring - it keeps the chain VERY tight (possibly a bit too tight actually) and is bolted to the dropout and tensions upwards so can never really be hit when landing on it Side view View from below Had to drill a 6mm hole in the web of the dropout (where theres virtually no stress) to bolt it on but its a damn sight lighter, smaller and neater than a rear mech and doesnt rely on a mech hanger to hold it on

Convert to singlespeed and use a 74kingz tensioner or bodge one up yourself

Bit of a shite design then

Sounds as though there is no locknut holding the bearings on to the shaft When you say the outer bolt, do you mean the end cap on the pedals? On dmr V12s this was needed a 6mm allen key to undo it and there was a separate locknut underneath that held the pedal onto the spindle, if the locknut has come loose the pedal body will be able to move on the shaft. This is a quick autocad sketch I did showing a rough section through a pedal, in this case a dmr v12 with a ball race on the outside and plain bush on the inside - I suspect the atomlab pedals are similar. If you take the endcap off is the locknut tight? The locknut holds the ball race onto the shaft and the end cap holds the ball race into the pedal body. Check the locknut is tight, if it is and the pedal body can still move with the end cap screwed in then there is probably a manufacturing or assembly defect

To be honest I dont know, I never go to the gym and never had any problems with my lats - I cant gap 8 foot though Is it possible that your lats are relatively weak/undersized compared to the other shoulder and back muscles? That way when all of the other muscles tense for impact the weaker lats get pulled about. If this is the case then the reason its only the right hand one is that most riding is handed; chocolate foot forward and preferred side and all that I would ask at the gym I would expect there to be someone who can better advise, possibly consult a physio - we have our own resident physio who may be able to help but you will need to be a full member to PM him.

Sounds like hes pulling his lats when he lands Only thing I could suggest is either changing your technique or strengthening the muscle but then Im neither a doctor or physio so dont listen to me edit: oops picture was a bit big, smaller one inserted

I know, it was your review that prompted me to try them You made no mention as to using them on the rear so I thought Id add my experiences as such. Better front tyre than rear though i reckon

Picked up a pair of near new tioga square eights off ebay for less than twenty quid so though Id test them out as a rear tyre as the tread pattern is about the closest Ive seen to a moto trials tyre in 26" The largest size they come in is 2.10" but when stuffed on a wide rim (tryall in this instance) they do come up quite square, but not as wide as a 2.35 maxxis. The tyres themselves are pretty lightweight at about 850-900g a piece, theyre also folding kevlar bead so alittle easier to get on and off the rim than steel bead, but by that means more likely to peel off the rim at low pressures. The grip is pretty good, they will hold very well on a square edge without any problems, definitely more street orientated than natural; I cant see them being able to clear mud particularly well because the blocks are so close together. Whilst the carcass could do with being bigger the major downfall is the absolute lack of pinch resistance, I pinched on a wheelswap landed at an angle on a brick wall - tyre was at 20 psi (my singleply highroller wouldnt have pinched at 10 psi on that) so in my opinion they are shite rear tyre because they pinch so damn easily I will put a maxxis back on the rear and use the tiogas for the front, it would appear they need the pressure to stop pinching, perhaps a good tyre for a purely street (not street trials) rider. If they made the sidewalls thicker and upped the size to at least a 2.35 then I reckon it would make a pretty good street tyre

I was being facetious

Are they the concrete containers that they store the nuclear waste in from sellafield? Looks awesome

I know, the state of my fence and garden is shocking isnt it

Finally about done rebuilding myself a trials bike again Its good to be back on two one wheel again even though it hurt more than it used to Quick spec: - Hifi frame (thanks n.wood) BT forks (thanks bigman) King/tryall rear wheel with 16t king cog & tioga square eight (still testing this - not had a proper ride on them yet) Hope xc/mavic xc717 with bolt in axle and irc kujo RS7 with heatsink bash, UN52 BB and DMR V8s SS tensioner mounted and sprung from the fame - home made from a dmr simple tension seeker FSA Orbit extreme sealed headset with hope headlock thingy Kore stem with onza t-rex bars. Water bled HS33 with heatsink cnc reds, RB lever and echo control booster (dead grind and tar on rim) Mono trial front (thanks mafu26) Still very rusty but its alot easier to ride than my old zoo! boa (although its a fraction heavier). Ive not decided on whether I need a taller stem yet - have ridden it with a t-rex stem and I think I prefer the feel of it with the lower kore. Far from lightweight at about 10.8kg but I wasnt trying to make it light Just got to get some strength back into my arms and learn how to ride again

Neoprene shinguards can get really, really smeggy pretty quickly and they dont half make your legs sweat Keep them washed and they will last you ages although they will get to a point when washing them wont help - a bit like gloves. They also wrap around so they help protect the inside of your legs from the cranks/bashguard/frame I dont wear mine anymore, I hardly slip the pedals these days and even if I do I just grin and bear it - think Ive got used to the pain and/or theres no nerves left in my shins to feel anything

You need to have the hose sticking out the clamps otherwise when you tap the barb in it splits the hose A drop of normal chain oil or similar on the barb will lube it fine, I wouldnt worry about the oil comtaminating your bleed, afterall oil and water dont mix (unless you add an emulsifier) and neither are compressable under magura pressures so it wont affect it

Learn to spell first Youre getting a lazy piston on the one side, search the wiki on here for fixing lazy pistons and all should be revealed. Chances are its a combination of dirt in the seals and the tpa being wound right in. Back the tpa off, take the slaves off and clean them thoroughly, rebleed if necessary, put it back together and reset the pads with as little tpa adjustment as possible. Alternatively if you have a water bleed then you probably just need to drop a spot of oil on the outsides of the piston to lubricate the seals, but then if you have a water bleed you should know how to cure lazy piston

Doh! So you did LOL Was a good guess from me, my excuse was I was tired and it was past my bedtime on a school night

What he means is that the tap for an M5 helicoil is not necessarily an M6 tap My M6 helicoil kit has a 6.3 tapping drill supplied with it, now thats part way between the recommended drill for M7x1.0 (6.0mm) and M8x1.25 (6.75mm) so its almost as if its an M7.5 tap, not just the next size up. At a rough guess I would say that the tapping drill for an M5x1.0 helicoil is about 5.2mm, perhaps someone can confirm this

When the red pads have died I may well try the necos I will just carry some tar around with me in the mean time, cant be arsed with grinding all the time.

Just started getting back into riding trials after a 2-3 year hiatus due to cracked frame and neither funds nor inclination to start again. Bought nick woods old hifi frame, a mono trial, heatsink cnc reds and cloud9 bash and started out again Now being almost 29 my body isnt quite as pliable as it was 5 years ago, muscles are aching, tendons are burning and it all generally seems much harder to do than I seem to remember (when I were a lad and all that bollocks ) My main question is: - Having been out tonight for a bit of a play around my rear brake has been needing a LOT of force to hold and the bite hasnt been what it was last week - the only difference is that most of the tar (which was applied to get the old koxx browns working till the reds turned up) has now worn off and I now just have a very, very dull grind. Chances of my brake finger simply not being strong enough or need to sort braking surface? Bearing in mind I typically dont ride in the wet and Im about 90% street should I just put a fresh grind on the rim (4 year old tryall has had previous grinds) or just bung a touch more tar on? In my experience with this rim it doesnt hold a sharp grind for long and being a lazy bugger I cant be arsed to grind every other month, where as Im quite happy to carry a small blob of tar about with me and I have a big block of the stuff So the choice is a smear of tar or a new grind? Also would the brake be likely to bite better with a booster or without? Hold isnt quite as important as Im only 11-12 stone at most and dont go that big but got solid bite is reassuring. With my echo control booster the flex is minimal but perhaps some flex of the frame is required to provide bite and hold? I dont know, what are peoples experiences with and without also bearing in mind pad life and performance For information the brake is water bled HS33 with an RB lever, echo control booster and heatsink cnc reds - pads are square and both hit the rim at the same time. Rim is a tryall with a very dull worn out grind. Peoples opinions, thoughts and experiences would be appreciated Beers in advance

Youre wrong, its f**king great tune No wait, Im wrong its a f**king great album

Venetian snares, with a very odd name - masodik galamb? Cant be arsed to trawl through my mp3s to find it edit: ok so Im bored at work, its Szamár Madár from the album Csillag Allat Szuletet

Yeah I meant to say that the helical spline is inside that bit :$ Those grooves, as you say, are only there to transmit the torque through to the hubshell, alot of intricate machining in a king hub

Thats near enough right I think..... Red arrow is the ring drive teeth/rings. Green arrow is the spring. Blue arrow is where the helical bit is in the hub shell. edit: and a photo of a stripped king hub.

I cheated and learnt how the ring drive works when I took it apart and serviced it after buying my discotech hub from ben travis Mechanical design engineer with a very inquisitive mind - have to take things apart to find out how they work, occasionally the still work after Ive put them back together aswell

Tadaaa! You cant really see how it works from that photo but it has a helical spline inside the hub shell and a sprung ring driver that slides inside the driveshell. When you pedal forwards the ring driver slides inside the hub along the helical spline and engages the ratchet tooth ring that is attached to the hubshell. When you stop putting force through the drive shell the spring forces the drive rings apart and the ratchet disengages. The high engagement is due to the number of teeth on the ratchet. This means that the more force you put into the rotation the harder it grips - kings will only slip if the preload is set incorrectly or its not bedded or serviced in properly