forteh

When the roofers were redoing the flat roof at work I asked if they had any tar spare, was only expecting about an inch ball of it and ended up with half a breeze blocks worth Its very good stuff, makes my 4 year old brown koxxbloxx work again

Guess Ill have to be throwing some money at heatsink again then

Balls, 25 aint old, Im 29 in may and there are plenty older on these forums

I assume you mean the cheap steel ones not the expensive ti ones Not got funbolts on my king rear so will bolt that up solid aswell

Is the right answer thank you Something like these? Or should I waste 22 quid and save 80g off me bike?

Sorry about the stupid question :$ Ive used the search and come to the conclusion that common gearing for stock is 1.125:1 (18/16) or 1.2:1 (18/15), Im currently running 20/16 with 165 cranks Ive used this gearing for ever and never really used much else in the last 6 years (probably through ignorance), however Ive always been shite at gapping, particularly from static Would dropping the gearing make gapping further easier? Im figuring it would as with the current gearing I dont think Im accelerating the cranks fast enough to get enough forward motion before I take off; or am I just being a big girl and need to learn the technique better? My next question is should I get a larger 17t king cog on the rear (20/17 = 1.17:1) or should I keep my 16t king cog and buy the cloud9 bash and 18t ring from heatsink and shed a bit more weight? For reference Im 5'8" 11 stone and faily slim build, got plenty of slow strength but not so much explosive power if that makes sense.

You dont need to take the resevoir cap off to push the pistons back in, leave it on If you read the whole topic you would find that his seals have failed and have admitted air into the system

My zoo boa (now cracked) was 10.45kg / 23lb with the same set up, the hifi frame is heavier. Erm yeah its a stock sorry, I wont try to make it lighter now Still doesnt mean I can ride for shit

Only thing to do is put new seals in, either phone up hope for some more or talk to your local dealer, iirc the seals for my mini caliper were about 5 quid Getting the bore plug out without the right tool could be interesting though - hope can supply you with one though. edit: Exploded view of the mono trial caliper. And the bore cap tool.

Watching tunni gap to the boat at the malthouse in brum, then watching ginger ben almost die trying to do it (lost a shoe in the process ) Oh how we laughed Unfortunately the phone that I recorded the video on was destroyed when I soaked it in my blood following my handlebar/leg interface at epic skatepark on my bmx

Have to dissagree Im afraid, in my experience: - Etnies and Duffs are very, very durable and comfy. DC, vans and airwalk have all fallen apart for me before the above did. Also had a pair of emericas that lasted forever I know this doesnt help you but TK maxx often has etnies and duffs in for 30 quid a pair - bargain shoes!

No worries

The slaves are the cylinders where the brake pads clip into, the master cylinder is in the lever. In hydraulic systems the master cylinder is the one that is operated and the slave cylinder is the one that does the operation - in the case of hydraulic brakes a mechanical advantage is built into the system by using different size pistons between the master and slaves Tarty sells brand new slave cylinders for 16 quid a piece (about $30 to you)

Mine have been water bled for years without a problem, if youre worried about the seal wear then just drop a little oil (proper oil not wd40 or such wank like it) onto the pistons. At the end of the day you can get a set of maggie slaves for bugger all. Ive got 6

The water doesnt affect the seals at all, its the lack of lubricating oil that means the pistons wear the seals out faster Ive had an olive corrode into the slave cylinder though so it wouldnt hurt to strip it every 6 months or so. Corrosion of ferrous materials (steel and iron) happens faster if it is subject to alternate immersion in water and then open air, hence if you have air in your bleed then its more likely to corrode the olives. Ive used 3 barbs to connect my slaves up so shouldnt get anymore stuck olives

Its the skewer slipping, the wheel comes out of centre compared to the fork crown Undo the skewer, reseat the wheel and its back in the middle. There are no rattles or odd noises other than the disk scuffing on the pads. Its a front shimano skewer, the front hope one Ive got is worse Anyone do a bolt up solution for hope xc hubs?

I never suffered any problems, when I first water bled I drained my old oil out and replaced it directly with water. Never had a problem with it When I bath bled the system in my bathroom sink the oily/watery mess that came out made a right state of the sink

Already is - bugger

The heatsink suggestion of a babyoil bleed is interesting, thinner and cheaper than maggie blood. If you dont have a bleed kit then water is easiest as you can bath bleed My old water bleed had stood for 2-3 years and air had got in somewhere (probably through the rb lever seals). When I bath bled it the other day a load of oil came out through the pipes, as it hasnt had an oil bleed in 4 years I figured that its got in there from when Ive oiled the outsides of the seals. I cant see how a little oil in the bleed will affect it other than providing some internal lubrication for the seals

Theyre the cheaper shimano skewers and the hub has a serrated ring on there, the serrations on the skewer may have worn a bit flat although theyre not particularly old/used. The faces of the dropouts are smooth though, suspect this may be the cause of the problem - might try attacking them with a grinder

No cones on a hope xc, its a sealed bearing hub. Its the skewer not gripping the dropouts

11.030kg / 24.266lbs echo hifi onza flyguy forks onza t-rex bars & stem RS7s with big bashring & dmr v8s king/tryall rear wheel with 2.35 high roller hopexc/mavic x717 with mythos xc deore mech for chain tension un53 BB (shimano lx) front mono trial rear maggie with rb lever and echo control booster Not the lightest but it doesnt bother me a great deal, some weight to shed when I get a decent tensioner (74kings probably).

Youre probably not pushing the pistons square enough if theyve jammed, you also probably have a bit of dirt behind the seals; only needs to be a tiny spec to jam it all up

Get a hope off fleabay or here, should pick one up for 20-30 quid, dont forget to factor in the cost of rebuilding the wheel aswell

New set of seals Just done one of my old mini calipers, had the same symptons and new seals and bleed sorted it. You will need to get the tool to undo the piston plug or take it to your nearest hope dealer to get them to do it. On the mini the seals were just square section o-rings, cant see the mono trial being any different. When you put the pistons back in lube them with some fresh brake fluid and they will pop into the seals easier