forteh

:D :D :D

Wide rims are drilled to reduce weight by taking out un-necessary material that doesnt contribute hugely to the strength of the rim. That said I would imagine that an undrilled rim will be ultimately stronger than a drilled one, however the relative strength of the drilled rims is still sufficiently strong for trials use so drilling makes sense

My odi roughnecks are less than 2mm thick Its taken 5-6 years to do it though

Im in the same position, just built an echo hifi up and got a choice of stems that I have in stock, either the onza t-rex (highish rise to suit the high BB) or my flat kore stem that I used on my old zoo boa. Ive not tried riding properly with both stems yet but it would be handy if someone could suggest the differences in riding, ie: is it easier to gap with the higher but harder to sidehop?

Have you tried cleaning out the master cylinder, you might have some crap in there thats jamming it up. Personally Ive never had any problems with a water bleed; I would be very very suprised if its your seals failed as its neither been long enough and a failing seal wouldnt make the piston stiff - my money is youve got some crap in there

What did you lube it with?

Gonna be an awesome scar

ODI roughnecks worn completely smooth, very thin and grippy, about 6 years old Will probably replace them with some ODI longnecks when they finally die. Tried foam grips, couldnt get used to them, maybe I have small hands but they just made them ache

You cant fit a bolt booster to a frame that doesnt have 4 bolt mounts

Shocking (non existent?) quality control if theyre assembling hydraulic brakes with maching swarf still in the bores

Well you really wouldnt want to see what I blacked out on that photo The bruising was black all the way from my right knee up to my waist - everything was black/purple and I mean everything justicejamie wins for staples

Mauve

Theres no reason why you cant as long as you can bollock the axle up enough to stop the wheel moving in the dropouts. Ive run single chain tensioner on my bmx for years and never had any problems, I have got a 14mm steel axle and a big pole to tighten it up with though

This thread is useless without pictures My most recent serious injury was bmx handlebars embedded into the top of my right thigh, I mean right at the top and inch to the left and no kids and 2mm to the right I would have died in a pool of my own blood in the skatepark As it was the bars punched a hole straight through my jeans and neatly applecored a 7/8" diameter hole out of my groin. Having fallen off the bike in a tangled heap I kicked it away with my left leg and it skidded away with a lovely trail of flesh hanging out the end of the handlebars My mates dragged me over to the wall and propped me up whilst I put pressure on it - its soo awesome to get dragged through pools of your own blood :D The bars went into my leg a full 3", the grip was rolled back as a witness to this. The result was 4 subcutaneous stitches to sew the hole up and another 5 to close the entry wound, the doctors could see the femoral artery in the bottom of the hole - I was so very close to killing myself Suffered minor nerve damage which meant it felt like someone was sandpapering my inner thigh for 18 months. Now have a neat scar at the top of me leg but I dont show it off in public in general The moral of the story is dont go riding after a 17 pint all day bender starting the previous lunchtime and dont rely on plastic bar plugs to save you - I have the blood soaked remains of an odi bar plug wedged in my bars somewhere, oh and that samsung d600s dont like to be soaked in blood

Ive got a set of backings from some old koolstop reds you can have, pm your address and Ill bung them in the post

Straight butted steel tube = heavy To build a lightweight steel frame you need to invest very heavily in materials and tooling.

Go Go Huge HAZ :D Nice one, I designed a bmx frame at uni for my final year project; was only a design exercise though, was never intended for manufacture. Hope it doesnt snap at an inoppurtune moment

Not read the rules have you?

Well seriolys should you? Welcome to new members chat, expect to be here for a long time

I bet your mates were spraying over existing powdercoat, this will give a better surface for the paint to adhere to. For a trials frame I wouldnt do anything other than powdercoat

Did you degrease the frame before primering it? Cheaper to get it powdercoated, should cost more than 10-15 quid if you ask nicely

Depends how confident you are and how much time you have If you read the right guides its easy, more so with 32/36 hole 26" rims because you have loads of room to thread the spokes in, I taught myself on 48 spoke 20" bmx rims and that took a while If you do go for it yourself then make sure you know all the mechanics of trueing a wheel, ie: how to get flat spots and bounces out of the rim aswell as getting it straight. Also invest in a decent spoke key that is the right size, Ive used a fair few different types over the years and imho the park spoke keys are by far the best. If you have a cheap spoke key then youre more likely to round off the nipples when tightening them and they also hurt your fingers more Basically if you can see yourself building/trueing more wheels in the future then go for it IMHO 15 quid for a wheel build is expensive, mine only cost me a fiver if I get them done.

As Im 'finding' my trials legs again Ill try the lighter gearing and perhaps put a 15t on the rear when I can pull the harder ratio

Im expecting some cnc reds through the post from steve tomorrow, I shall have to dig out me switch card again, get paid on thursday wooo

If heatsink dont have any to hand then I shall go to trials-uk, tarty dont do the cloud9 and thats my only option to run 18t front. Cheers for the heads up