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Everything posted by forteh
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Ive got a control booster on my hifi and its pretty stiff, got an rb lever though which excerts more mechanical advantage than the maggie. Without the booster the stays flex quite a lot. Fitting the 4bolt isnt hard at all, just loosely put it together one screw and spacer tube at a time, as long as you dont tighten any of the screws down before you have all 4 spacer tubes in its fine. Fitting the 4bolt stopped me kicking my crossovers off
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The brakes will only need bleeding if youve got a leak and air has gotten into the system - the lever will feel spongey and generally pull right back to the bars without pulling the brake on. Best thing to do is learn to bleed brakes yourself then you dont need to pay someone to do it for you
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Maggie slaves (quicksilvers from about 1996 I think ) RB lever Echo control 4bolt booster Heatsink cnc reds Dead grind (will regrind at some point) Water bleed Very light action, good hold and bite and pretty quiet (running a huge booster on a stiff frame sorts that) - its currently the best rear brake Ive had
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Thanks for the headsup, its been years since I bought a BB My lbs will probably have a stock of old BBs I can raid, if not a 54 it is
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Shimano LX is UN52 and has solid axle with plastic cups. Shimano XT is UN72 and has a hollow axle with aluminium cups. Currently using a UN52 with UN72 cups, although I might go find a 72 to save a fair amount of weight
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More friction surface = more braking power
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Vents are only really needed to if the disk is getting hot, aluminium is a much better heat conductor than stainless steel so it doesnt need the vents to stop it warping, likewise the cast iron disk on my supermoto is unvented yet its better than any stainless steel disk of the same size
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Given that the marta is an open system its probably one of 2 things: - The pads are completely worn out and are beyond the automatic adjustment of the system. Theres air in the system and it need bleeding. Does the brake work at all? If not then its probably just in need of a bleed.
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Can guarantee it hasnt The whole frame would need to be normalised then retempered to suit, both processes would have destroyed the paint.
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Generally any cyanoacrylate will work but I would get hold of some loctite preferably as its good stuff. I would avoid superglue in a little metal tube as its usually shite, if its in a rigid plastic bottle then it will last longer without going off
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Cyanoacrylate (superglue) will hold them in and a good sharp stanley knife will cut them Degrease the pads and backings beforehand for better sticking, a little lubricant on the blade will help it cut, pretty sure washing up liquid is good enough.
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There was a slight delay in the posting for the coud9 and cnc pads I ordered, got them yesterday though all as promised Bear in mind that Steve is a busy man with wife & kids and a full time job ontop of the stuff for heatsink, hes also released the new frame recently so something has to give way.
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Which profiles have you got? The SS ones were much heavier than the race ones. IMHO profiles are the best bmx cranks and no heavier than any others, I got some primo powerbites instead of some profiles and they were heavier and always coming loose - got profiles on my standard now. If you have profile race now then I would keep them and possibly invest in a lighter axle (sure they do titanium bb spindles for profiles) edit: yup profile do titanium spindles for the cranks, titanium spindle will set you back 80 quid.....
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Pads: Heatsink Red CNCs Time used: 2 hours so far Rim used: Tryall Grind: Yes - very dull and dead though, a slight smear of tar aswell but Im not going to reapply that. Ceraminc: No Brake used: Magura with RB lever and echo control booster (water bleed) What is your opinion of a working brake: A brake that locks on and holds without needing to put stupid force through the lever. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Rimjam greens - same bite and hold as the reds but the rimjams wore down in 4 hours Koxx browns - no bite or hold compared to the reds but have lasted for years Review: The pads work straight away, no bedding in with instant bite and hold - exactly how a brake should work Only a slight honk but Im running the booster on a hifi frame which is pretty stiff anyways. I will be able to comment on wear rate when Ive ridden some more with them. For 6 quid a refill you cant go wrong
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Round ones with a largely nitrogen & oxygen based gaseous inflation media
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Wide rims are drilled to reduce weight by taking out un-necessary material that doesnt contribute hugely to the strength of the rim. That said I would imagine that an undrilled rim will be ultimately stronger than a drilled one, however the relative strength of the drilled rims is still sufficiently strong for trials use so drilling makes sense
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My odi roughnecks are less than 2mm thick Its taken 5-6 years to do it though
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Im in the same position, just built an echo hifi up and got a choice of stems that I have in stock, either the onza t-rex (highish rise to suit the high BB) or my flat kore stem that I used on my old zoo boa. Ive not tried riding properly with both stems yet but it would be handy if someone could suggest the differences in riding, ie: is it easier to gap with the higher but harder to sidehop?
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Have you tried cleaning out the master cylinder, you might have some crap in there thats jamming it up. Personally Ive never had any problems with a water bleed; I would be very very suprised if its your seals failed as its neither been long enough and a failing seal wouldnt make the piston stiff - my money is youve got some crap in there
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What did you lube it with?
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Gonna be an awesome scar
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ODI roughnecks worn completely smooth, very thin and grippy, about 6 years old Will probably replace them with some ODI longnecks when they finally die. Tried foam grips, couldnt get used to them, maybe I have small hands but they just made them ache
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You cant fit a bolt booster to a frame that doesnt have 4 bolt mounts
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Shocking (non existent?) quality control if theyre assembling hydraulic brakes with maching swarf still in the bores