forteh

Just rebuilt my trials bike with N-wood's old hifi frame and went for the first ride in 2-3 years last night Its all good - my back, legs, arms, shoulders and hands are now all hurting me but its a good hurt Quick question though, thenever I use the front disk (hope trial) the front wheel shifts in the drop outs due to torque reaction and then causes the disk to scuff the pads. It used to do it a bit before with my old hope mini (not mono) but with the more powerful trials brake its happening all the time. The hub is hope xc, forks are onza fly guys and its a deore skewer tightened up as much as possible - no matter what I do it moves Also got some hope skewers but theyre even worse than the shimano ones Any suggestions?

Lace them cross and buy single colour ones then Not all skate shoes have the 'padded' look, etnies lo-cuts for example. In my experience etnies, duffs and emerica are very hard wearing and a pair will last me years

I have a mythos xc on a x517 on the front of my bike Got an old kujo and el gato in the bike cupboard, might put the kujo on the front tonight

Ive had a water bleed for the last 3-4 years, admittedly the bikes not been ridden for the last 2 years :$ Never had any problems or leaks with it and the lever feel is waay better I did lube the outside of the pistons occasionally (drop alittle oil in there) when they looked dry. The seals are still intact, it doesnt bother me if they fail as I have 4 spare slave cylinders floating about somewhere One problem with the water bleed is that the olive has rusted into the slave so I cant get it off the end of the hose - no major hassle really though. I suspect if you keep it properly bled with water and/or strip it every 6 months to clean it then this wouldnt happen - because my bleed failed a little while ago its had air sitting in the system, this has probably caused the olive it to corrode. Either way water works

Im 29 in 2 months and just picking up trials again, last rode properly about 3 years ago - cracked my old frame and not got round to it since I can see my back, arms and shoulders hating me for a week or two FWIW Ive been on bikes for the last 15 years and riding trials on and off for almost 11 years - still crap though!

You have recieved a new feedback. Below are details concerning the new feedback. Type: Good Rating SummaryGood communication, quick delivery - top bloke Given By: forteh You were the: Seller Date: 1204883831

lmao :D

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Or just take the caliper to pieces as I said and use a vice, then you dont risk killing your expensive caliper :turned:

Is it the mono mini or the 2 piece caliper? If its the 2 piece then take the caliper off the bike & disconnect the banjo fitting. Remove the retaining pin clip and the 2 allen screws holding the halves togetherthen the whole lot should slide apart and you can grip the shaft of the retaining pin in a vice and turnt he caliper body half to release it. Reassemble as normal and put a new retaining pin in and get some decent allen keys that are sharp and wont round you screws off (Y) If its the mini mono I would try to get some needle nose pliers on the clip end of the retaining pin and see if you can twist it out. A large stud extractor into the allen head might work aswell. Other than that phone hope and they should be able to sort you out. Hope that helps :turned: edit: The retaining screw on the mini is the one just above the h in hope on the caliper in this picture On the mini the retaining pin is the same (I think), and is located between the 2 allen screws that hold the caliper halves together). On the mini mono there arent the 2 allen screws cos the caliper is a single piece unit, but the retaining screw does exactly the same.

Yeah, dont sell it, just lock it up somewhere safe and pull it out later when you get bored of bmx. Thats why I have a mint bmx (standard sta), jump bike (santa cruz chameleon) and trials bike (zoo! boa), yet only really ride trials atm. Youll kick yourself later if you decide to try trials again, cos you probably wont sell it for much more than half of the cost of a new bike, hence hundreds of wasted pounds that you could spend on beer >_< Dont sell unless youre strapped for cash >_<

Got my discotech off travistrials and its perfect, I believe it has been serviced by tarty at some point. Never skipped and very light, mines got the alu driveshell, you cant really run singlespeed on it (unless you have a kingcog like me :lol: ) cos the driveshell dies very quickly. i dont run a disk on the rear so cant comment, but overall its awesome.

I weighed mine at work on the digital scales in the stores, came in at 10.5kg which is 23.1lbs, not exactly rocket science :mellow:

23.1 lbs for my zoo boa, singlespeed only single disk though, not really tried going for lightweight but I dont think its that bad :mellow:

Dont know what the rear of the echo is but my boa is 385mm, and with 1/2 mm of filing you can run a 20-16 single speed withotu a tensioner, saved me 600 grams off the back wheel by doing that (Y)

Now ive gone to 20-16 ratio I can run without a tensioner on my zoo boa. The chain was stupidly tight beforehand, just filed 1/2 mm out of the front of both dropouts and its perfect. Its great, cos the drive is instant with no slap or noise, one of the best mods to my bike Ive made :o

Usually, strip the bars from the stem, lightly grease the contact points and all the bolts and reassemble, should stop the creaking. Otherwise i suppose its possible that the aluminium liner to the bars has seperated from the carbon (assuming they are aluminium wrapped bars like most carbon trials bars).

superglue is not really a good idea due to it not being waterproof once set <_<

Your frame choice depends largely on what you like in a bike, with a bmx the only frame variable typically available is toptube and chainstay lengths. If youre aiming for the technical flicking/spinning street then I would recommend a shorter toptube with a short rear end. If youre more into flowing street and jumping/dirt then a longer bike gives much more stability in the air (sorta like the difference between an orange zero and a bt raven). 21" toptube is considered to be a long frame, 19" is short, chainstays vary from 13.5" - 15" depending on the type of bike. Personally i find that the shorter the chainstays the better, bu then thats cos I love to manual for miles :S I ride a standard STA 21" on street (and used to ride trails) and it rides lovely, imho standard make the nicest frames (also expensive) to ride once built up with decent components; Im 5'8" and handle the 21" tt fine. The 4seasons is pretty much the same geometry and weight as the standard so should ride nice :D oh for the record heres mine :rolleyes: standard sta500, s&m pitch forks, profile race, profile ss rear hub dk race front hub c/w s&m axle extenders, primo hulahoops, primo mustache bars, tech77 lever with evolver brake (works like amaggie :D )

I cant really comment because I have a king on 26", however I would imagine that it is the same as swapping from a hope rear hub to a king. Relatively the cost is alot more, but the riding experence is sooooo much better, if you can afford to get an ENO (20") or a king (26") then I would say by all means go for it. Once you have used a high engagement drive you wont want to go back :turned:

sorry, but I couldnt resist :D