James Quigley

Now I look...too small for a boa to. How about a Coust copy? (judging by how the top and downtube meet)

I'm gunna guess Zoo Boa

The fixing to the lever uses the same shroud nut and olive, only it has an extra fitting inside the hose on the louise. Fitting the lever isn't the problem, but the other items you mentioned will be. Cheers, I shant waste my time trying.

Well I have bought a Lousie Disc for the sum total of £20 but the lever needs a new reservoir cap (I have bleed it using a jubilee clip to test and works a treat, bargain brake if you ask me). Can't seem to find a reservoir cap so until I find one, i have a Hs33 lever sat here doing nothing but look pretty. has anybody tried this setup and did it work? I would just go and try it anyway but cani be arsed gettting my hands covered in mineral oil right now. I know the levers will probably use different piston sizes etc, but dont know how this will affect performance. Also any issues with one being an open system and the other being closed?

I haven't had to bleed my echo TR lever in the 8 or so months i've had it. Seems to be brilliant with no leaks. Also one of the most comfortable levers I've used.

Great as ever Jonny. Any prospect of a hq downloadable version?

If it's any consolation I haven't serviced my king for about 2 years now, still works a treat.

Thanks to the guys that have helped here. I posted this thread here as it is the only forum I am a member of, it's bike related and doesn't fit under 'Trials-Chat', or any other sub category on this forum. Not that I feel I need to justify this topic, BUT, it was a genuine inquiry as I am trying to get rid of a few things to help my mum out with money, she has £40k a year less to spend now and is finding it a bit trying at the moment, the last thing I wanted was for a bunch of tits with no social life outside of the internet to say 'Epic Fail' a bunch of times. If a mod felt the topic needed moving they'd of moved it, if you had no constructive advice to give me why post a reply at all? Sorry for the mini rant and thanks again to the guidance a few of you gave. (and no I wont be taking up Road Cycling so have no need to ''find my legs'' as it were )

What's so wrong with this thread that nobody is willing to give any advice?

Sorry for creating another of these topics that nobody really likes. Only I know there are a few roadies here and I need some guidance on what my dads old bike is worth. It's a Carrera Virtuoso Circa 2004ish. Immaculate condition (only ridden twice to my knowledge). full Sora Groupset as I remember, 16 speed, Medium size frame. I really have no idea what roadbikes go for or are worth. Thanks for any help guys, T-F to the rescue!

leave the rotor on the bike, cover with a clean rag and use an adjustable spanner to GENTLY bend the rotor back to where it should be.

Is there any need for a top AND down tube there? could easily get away with one oversized tube.

2.11

what about ankle support, which for me would be the main reason for getting a trials specific shoe? (I speak as a man in a cast). Sorry dude don't think you'll find any NEW cheap Ribos, or try-alls for that matter.

also the proII uses a single speed cassette jobbie so the spacing will be all out of whack. not to mention the different dimensions all round of the two freehub bodies.

Saw it on Tuesday. Was AWESOME. Bit cheesey in the comic moments but the fights.........oh my god the fights! (and Megan Fox......SPLAT!)

I've never seen cranks snap at the bb/isis mounting end. Always halfway up or nearer the pedal. Also why? my try-all cranks are a good 3 years old and havn't got any play, all threads are fine and the hole for the isis has no play at all. I render your idea null and void.

You shouldn't be hitting your chest on your stem. I find that your groin should be closer to the stem than your chest (still not hitting though).

So same material as the Plaz CRMs. The Plaz CRMs did NOT work in the wet AT ALL! But this video they seem fine when wet, so what's going on there then?

I've always been a fan of, soaking the pads in BOILING hot water for a few minutes, clean 'em off with kitchen paper, clean the rotor with water and more kitchen paper. Then put it all back together and ride around dragging the brake a lot so it gets ridiculously hot then douse in water (disc and caliper) and it should bed in soon enough and work like a charm.

Lockring is on a thread. Standard cassette removal tool will do the job.

1068 ...but it doesn't include orders I had made before they started registering people, which includes frames etc I have bought so probably well over 1500 by now.

Too late now because the crime has occured............. ..........but, I'd just walk in, in my normal clothes, cut the lock and walk out with my bike. For the sake of 20 bucks they're not going to spend time searching through hours of cctv and spending days/weeks keeping an eye out for 'the kid who took his bike back'. You could have even left a nice letter with the cut lock, explaining why them locking your bike up was thoroughly out of order and that you were kind enough to cut the chain in such a way as that they could use it again.

How does the bike ride? Is the rear end nice and stiff? The funky dropout system they have working on those frames just looks like a suspect for weakness.

I have sworn by the Maxxis Larsen TT for the last couple of years.