Greetings

Well, these translators are better than nothing, at least I got a vague image of what the topic on that Russian forum was about. It's way more advanced than some english -> polish translator which kept treating the verb "can" as the noun "can". Pretty much pissed myself when I read "we metal tin offer you a great holiday".

Haha that's exactly what I was thinking about a few days ago. What geometry should a mod have for it to feel like a stock. I was a mod rider for 5 years and recently went over to stock bikes. These are the things I now find annoying in mods and that I would like to change: -Distance between front wheel and bars. -Bars being almost "in front" of the wheel -The bb is LOW!! Even with a +60mm frame, it's still only 310mm. -Too short chainstays In my opinion you can't get a mod to feel like a stock. If you think about it, one of the key points is the distance between the wheels (wheelbase minus wheel diameter). On a Python this is 545mm, on a Control L (1080) it's about 420mm. While the Control feels as if everything was "under" you, the Python feels as if the front wheel was in one place and the rear in another which is a pain in the arse on rocks. So here's one issue you'll come across when extending the wheelbase of a mod. The "low" position on the bike can be compensated by bb rise. ~100mm would probably feel fine but the bike would be awful on the rear wheel. To make this easier the chainstays could be extended to at least 375mm. Seeing as the mod doesn't have a spring chain tensioner, the chainstays can only be extended by 1/4" using a halflink chain or 1/2" using a standard chain. Lets say we give it a 385mm effective chainstay length. This should already compensate for the loss of power due to a high bb. The high bb should allow for a more stock-like position on the bike where the bars are quite low comparing to the bb height. And with the use of a 115x25 stem and riser bars you can probably get the bike to feel low but not wrong. A more flat head tube angle would make the position a bit better but nothing else, so that's a bad idea. Wheelbase could be extended for the bottom tube to reach about 620mm but not more. After writing all this, I still think that mods are just completely different and will never feel like a stock. I'm bored. So: 620mm top tube 385mm effective chainstays (~381mm between hub and bb using halflink and 18:12 gr) 100mm bb rise ~1090mm wheelbase? 115mmx25 stem 370mm forks This would feel awful, there is a reason for mods not having such geometry.

Geez, never wrote they were fake You can get original CK headsets for under 50 quid on ebay.

All that could have been shown in 30 seconds. He's not a bad rider, just a bit uncontrolled me thinks.

It's because your account is full. 333MB is the maximum you can upload, if you want a larger account, PM Hexa on tv.isg.si. I got 2gb after asking for 500MB

Just like Adam and Dan wrote - bikes with all parts coloured look hideous. In my opinion one should either have coloured rims and bars and the rest in a neutral colour, or coloured hubs, headset and maggie mounts.,

Not to start a new topic, can somebody write how to remove the pad material from the backings? Got some black magura pads and would like to replace the pad material with Heatsinks.

Must say I liked your previous video much more, the moves were way smoother and lines were far more creative. Get your style back

I'm with JT on this one and this topic should be closed.

I'd say lime green. Seen lots of black bikes with those rims and all of them looked fantastic. That's a personal preference though, I guess the majority of people don't like fluo rims.

Wow, beat the official world record have we? Mine is ~9-10ft, never really cared about drops, all they do is destroy the bike.

There was a topic like this a while back and it ended up with people just posting pictures of their bikes. The bike pics thread can be found here.

Of course it's the same, you've got a 3:2 gear ratio so obviously 48eps on the rear will give you 72eps on the cranks.

Control. Rode a long for one day and it was superb. It could have been a bit longer though but other than that it was a good balance between a frame which is good for static moves and rolling moves. It's also quite flicky, I can imagine the short should be even better.

Realized that as well. I can only relate to Polish spelling which is far more difficult than English, yet people somehow get it right. Obviously one does come across stupid mistakes but I guess that's normal in every language. I was really shocked when I re-joined this forum last year seeing all the text talk or stuff like this for example: Does this show that people just couldn't care less about what they write or are they simply intellectually challenged? Thank god the majority of members have no problems with their English.

Cheers for the comments, didn't expect many as there are no drop-gaps in the vid Martin's been riding about 12 years now I think, he started at the age of 17, Peter's been at it on and off for about 7 years but then he spends lots of time in Holland without a bike. None of us have been riding trials "constantly" if you get me, there were loads of gaps.

Hope I get a card with my order as well

I don't usually post vids from rides on this forum but I'll make an exception seeing as there's just not enough natural in what we watch these days. Met up with Martin (ZM1) and Peter (GU) today, on our way to a spot we came across some logs. As I hate logs (dunno why, love rocks though) I decided to take the camera out tv.isg.si link -> megamo_bugaj_inur.wmv A bit of me at the end, had a bad day anyway. Some shots are poor quality because they were taken with Pete's camera which is f**ked. Enjoy!

Liked that. So that's how trials hell looks like When you gap, jump from the edge. It's much safer when wet and you can also go further.

Two words: clever and insane edit: anyone else getting gay videos in "related links" ?

I know what you mean, there's not much you can do about it but just to ride and get used to it. Maybe move the lever further towards the stem so you can only brake with one finger?

Into the retailers' pockets. Trust me dude, UK is probably the most expensive place to buy Monty components in the world. It's nothing to do with taxes - I can't give you exact figures at the moment, but on the continent a Ti frame is roughly 80% more expensive than the Pr, in the UK - over 300%. Whereas the prices of Koxx frames are very similar around the world meaning that retailers probably have to sell them at a set price. The 231Ti retails for about 220 quid. There's no way you can get a good Koxx for that money in any shop (even in China) which leads me to the conclusion that Koxx is the most overpriced. Indeed Monty doesn't seem to spend loads on R&D - judging by the looks only - but trust me, those frames are one of the most advanced on the market. It's something you only realize when you ride one of them. These frames really work under you and that's not an easy thing to achieve keeping in mind a frame has to be durable. I've read what Deng was saying about his frames, and they are apparently also built to flex but for some reason I can't believe it. In my opinion they're just made to be as durable and stiff as possible, which they are. The only thing that pisses me off with Monty's is that they have a 106mm hub spacing and 25" rear rim.

You can strip them with caustic soda (thanks Ben for the advice) and polish them with no problem. They will oxidize creating aluminum oxide which as wrote before will protect the fork - you can call it self-anodizing if you wish but there's a slight difference between the two. The forks will go matte and if you want to keep the high polish Mr. Gibson has, they will need a polish every now and then. Alternatively you can spray them with lacker but that will slowly peel off and look grotty.

learned the basic moves on a merida fireball full sus bike, then changed to a early 90's 221 X-Lite which i kept having problems with